PeterW

Could be a hidden gutter under the last row of tiles - can’t tell until the tiles are off and the lead is checked.

Most of them you do that. Check the MIs

If it’s tiled it needs to be sound and strong - you cannot have it flex. A pocket door will only need 75mm plus then board on either side - they don’t have a stud (or if they do it’s only 20mm thick.

Go with the 1150 as tbh slimming it down by 230mm is just causing too much grief. my previous solution was based on you wanting to reduce from 2150 so ignore that

Ok think I get this ... To do this, he is saying he has nothing to attach blockwork to. The internal frame doesn’t have any OSB sheathing to it, so he would need to make a new internal sheathed frame, then attach blockwork ties from the outside. It can be done, and isn’t difficult. But it needs thinking through. Need to build a pair of “boxes” and put OSB on the outside of them, and set them into the internal frame. Fix top bottom and side. This creates a smaller window opening, and now you can attach blockwork ties to the outside of this, and block up the gap. That will reduce the size of the hole, and allow the blockwork to span correctly. @zoothorn triple glazed UPVC isn’t expensive and you can get very good acoustic properties from even cheap 3G windows.

You’re not making sense..... So there is a 2150mm hole in the outer blockwork with matching hole in the timber frame ..? And you want to reduce to 950mm..?? So thats blockwork needed in each side, then leave the middle open. Same on the inside with timber frame

... and back out .... then in again ..... etc ?

you don’t need to. There is no reason to remove it unless you want to stop it getting into the gutters but it will come back. Could be soakers under there - I’ve seen it done both ways.

I bet that’s an old Cisco 3x48 series ... they are not dumb, they are a managed switch so you will need to configure the gateways and vLans etc on it. Was it reset to factory ..?

Try George Culley’s in Rochdale. looks a bit like this if it’s 5mm x 10mm (you’re looking for T Seal) https://georgeculley.co.uk/products/per-mt-t-section-10-mm-x-5-mm-black-silicone-extrusion-extruded-rubber-seal

Looks like the power trip has spiked the main board - was this weather related (power outage)..?

Yep done a big extension with it and it was really good. Jointstik and filler take some getting used to, but once you’ve mastered using Fermacell it’s a really nice product. It is just very heavy..!!

Do not underestimate the cost of additional fixings as you’re going to need longer screws, potentially battens too as PB screws don’t come that long. Will probably take you about 15 years to pay that back... give or take a decade ..!

They are in the tool loan section of the forum https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/3281-on-loan-anemometers-for-testing-and-setting-up-mvhr/

Why not use Cat5E..?? 6/7 is overkill, unless you are planning on streaming 4K HD between devices and using high speed WiFi hubs... In a house, CAT5E will transfer close to 1gbps due to the distances involved anyway so why are you worrying ..? The end device connected by WiFi will always be the slowest link.

Check if they will let you put a 90mm MDPE in from the end of the drive to the house as a dry riser. Cheaper than sprinklers.

Boost fan for the old fireplace... Grandparents used to have a blower at the side of the chimney breast to get the fire going.

I've considered the same and looked at this one at £229 QUBEV Charger

Quick fag packet and I think you will struggle with that. The one you want to put in place from the animation I reckon will end up as a 457x152, and at around 64kg/m that is a half tonne steel. It will also protrude significantly into the room below as your new flat roof will preclude lifting it upward. The remaining steels will be a mix of 356 or 406 depth, again making it all very deep and very heavy to maneuver - there is about 5 tonnes of steel in that design. I would consider a pillar / column inserted where the 4 steels come together - it will reduce the sizes substantially and also make it comparatively easier to manage the insertions. .

Hybris is an odd product as it’s not the same as the foil crap, it has a honeycomb back to it like a ‘’ normal” insulation. No experience of it in practice but I would expect it is a bit of a challenge to get the joints correct.

The internal wall is a simple fix - shuttering at 150mm from the wall with some lengths of rebar hammered in to the existing founds / under slab, and then concrete poured in to make a solid retaining wall. Shuttering gets removed and you’ve got a concrete ledge holding back the old wall. The remainder I would want the builder to resolve with a French drain or similar set lower as discussed with just a slab edging - quick and cheap.

Choice D is also 355mm wide and a non wrap over lid https://www.choicereplacementtoiletseatshop.co.uk/choice-d-shape-universal-pro-toilet-seat-chrome-hinges-ch-506092

Another vote for Sonos here...

Other option is find a local farmer and see if they want the soil for infill anywhere - cost will be lower but you’ll definitely need something to load it.

So I pay £160 for a 17 tonne load with a hiab loader, or £150 for 20 tonnes but is loaded by JCB JCB is £90 a day hired , or £170 with a driver. JCB can load the wagons in about 15 mins if it is a loose pile and space to move on site.