PeterW

where are you looking @ProDave as they list the side to side width on all of them ..? It’s in Spec

What’s your budget ..?? For walk on structural “standard” panels we were quoted about £1k/sqm plus fitting. That was 10L/16/6T units with a 50mm over size edge. They were 300x800 or so, and got discounted rapidly due to price. If you want 3G then add another layer of toughened or laminated plus a warm spacer so I think you will need to budget £1500-1800/sqm for that with frame and installation. Roof Maker do all sorts of stuff so they may be a good starting point ..??

Not if everything is glued together and that includes the boards to the joists.

353Z is a more like a conventional chainsaw with a layout that makes it fairly well balanced. You’ll need a twin port fast charger and a pair of spare batteries too though as they eat batteries. And all the requisite PPE as they are just as sharp and dangerous as the petrol ones ...

Long edges yes, short edges no.

I read that and it’s usual Royal Borough of Windsor stuff - they could only include the trees into the permission if they included them and noted them on the notice. Also worth reading the next paragraph. Conditions can be used to protect street trees from development pressures or be used to agree schedules of work with developers that may include planting of new street trees to counter losses or harm. So this would only refer to trees the council/borough owned as they have no power under the TCPA to impose a condition on property they do not own. That information is also nearly 10 years old - I did wonder how many times it’s been challenged or even used...?

First rule to stop a flat roof leaking is ..... make sure it’s not flat ...!!! Get a decent fall on it, so water can’t find a place to settle. Also go over the top on structure so you get zero deflection and a decent ply or OSB layer - 2 layers of 12mm OSB can be better than a single layer of 18mm ply. A good built up and torched on felt (base layer plus top layer) will last 30 years if done right but getting the laps correct and the right falls is equally as important.

Do you mean that..? If they are 600 centres then the gap will be 600mm minus truss thickness.

Why not put the transformer somewhere like a utility space and run in 12/24v as assuming these will be LED ..?

Another vote here for wall plate and resin bolts. Pack it with shims made from 3mm ply.

North side on the OP faces a road @joe90

South would be preferable as you will be forever cleaning filters otherwise.

Do not split the extract and intake onto separate elevations. You will struggle to balance them - MVHR does not have a very powerful fan so may struggle to overcome the difference in a strong breeze.

This is interesting : And the root zone is almost also the only location on the plot where I can store things during the build Most approvals have a specific clause about having to use fencing to BS5837 and not doing anything inside the area. Out of curiosity, is the RPA as measured on your plans or as defined ..?? It should be based on a circle of radius 12 times the diameter of the main stem measured at 1.5m above the ground. You may want to ask the arborist about the root area, specifically with in light of this clause. 4.6.3 Any deviation in the RPA from the original circular plot should take account of the following factors whilst still providing adequate protection for the root system: a) the morphology and disposition of the roots, when influenced by past or existing site conditions (e.g. the presence of roads, structures and underground apparatus); b) topography and drainage; c) the soil type and structure; d) the likely tolerance of the tree to root disturbance or damage, based on factors such as species, age, condition and past management. It is more than likely that the old structures have altered the root pattern so having those superimposed on the RPA is always beneficial. I’ve argued successfully that an RPA could not be a certain area due to presence of a building previously. For an RPA to be a 10m circle the tree in question would need to be at least 0.85m diameter (or nearly 2.6m in circumference) so I would start by getting that validated.

Yep - it will drop the pressure then stop.

flow switch needs about 1.5 litres per minute to trigger a combi - it’s a flow switch not a pressure switch.

From memory the Greenstar has a pump in the housing - if the pump has gone it’s a engineer job.

Up the insulation and drop the heat demand and then you need to load shift as per @SteamyTea to get the loads onto E7 or at worst E10. Concrete slab as mass storage, then you may find you can even get away with a Willis type arrangement. I’ve seen inside an electric boiler thanks to @newhome and it’s basically a 3 phase immersion with a set of triac drivers - one per phase - that brought in individual 6kw immersion elements. Nothing fancy but not cheap for what is in effect a big Willis heater. You could very easily daisy chain 3 Willis heaters together to get 9kw and use an off the shelf PID controller to manage the lot for change of £150 if you really needed that sort of heat input into a slab and don’t want an ASHP.

How big is the studio and how often will it be used ..?? Also, how well insulated is it ..? I would go with a small under sink unit feeding kitchen sink and basin in the bathroom, and a decent 10kw electric shower. For heating I would swap to a split air con unit that can do both heating and cooling, and an electric towel rail in the shower room to keep that warm. If you stay away from cold tiles and go with a vinyl/Lino type product for the bathroom too, then tile heating wouldn’t be required.

Zone valve on the heating ..?? Push the lever across manually to see if the micro switch is dead.

Is that legit Hep2O pipe then as it should naturally lay flat if you take it out of the pack from the middle ... and follow the instructions on the packs.

About 6 months ... the fines will wash out of it first.

It would be a b-word... but not that one ... ?

I’d foam that in ... stop it moving and breaking the back of the soldering on the plate.

Looks like a built in low loss header