PeterW

Yep you need some way to fill the buffer and loops - don’t forget to add some inhibitor too.

Woahh..!! If that is lead from the street then TW have to replace it to your boundary- is it lead at the main..??

Looks good to me. You will need some method of filling the UFH and buffer but another F&E will be easy to add. Immersions in all the tanks are a good idea - even the buffer. It can act as your secondary dump for excess PV too.

Insulated pipework can sort this. Not that expensive tbh in the scheme of things.

only if they’ve been set to run 100%. I installed one with a 5 min/ hour run time from 6am-midnight in a commercial building and it saves about £300 year on gas and electric.

Pump ..? Should be one on the cold return to the ASHP. Buffer with coils - only a coil for either the UFH or the ASHP. Don’t need both. If buffering the UFH then you need the expansion on the UFH circuit.

Not sure where you bought it from unless you have a PA Cert..? Most of the ag merchants now ask as a matter of course for your certificate. A lot of the stuff on eBay is either knock off and diluted, or they give the warnings that you have to follow FEPA / COPR which clearly states that Grazon is Triclopyr and Clopyralid and should only be used professionally.

What zone valves have you got ..? Wax cap ones ..?? Have you got a picture of the loop lengths too ..? Not just the layout ..?

Can’t see the point of two valves either ..? Lever and a butterfly on the same pipe leg or is that part of the filter unit ..?

Valve upside down will leak down it’s spindle when it goes - into your electrics .. and how do you get to the bottom of the mag unit to drain it off ..?

Crap installation of both the mag filter and the valve with handle before it. How are you supposed to get the mag unit off ..??

Right side wall is wasted ... make it a full length banquette seat with the table against it.

That needs a lot of work. It’s been left too long, and you need to do some restorative work to it in the autumn and get some of the weight off all of the limbs. You can see previous damage to the left side - that will not heal nor will it re-bind as it’s essentially the heart that is visible. Suggest you either get a tree surgeon in, or carefully cut back from the end in 2ft sections by hand, watch it for springing back

That worries me more !! One part of the business propping another up is not a good sign. Out of interest, how did you find out..? Is it just from the ground workers or have you got other instances where you have seen cash related issues ..? And what were the deposits for ..?

I can sympathise with you on this, but sadly it is more common than you think. In terms of your specific question, who are the windows coming from ..? I would pay the supplier directly and ensure they (the supplier) know that they are for your build only. Ask them for the stage payment points and then have a straight conversation with your builder about your reasons for doing this.

yes in England - it’s part of the disbursements you pay for in the searches.

Who ..??? If this is a private supply and there are no easements etc, then they are without any rights !! I take it they are concerned that you’ve realised this and you have a right to use the supply but everyone above you could be affected so are now trying to fix a legal issue that is pre-existing ...

It’s best practice but wasn’t specified, and gravel or hardcore soakaways work fine. If the spec said “crate soakaway wrapped in geotechnical to size xx/CuM with infiltration of yy, minimum invert depth zzz mm” then you would have an argument. As it is, there is a soakaway. Tbh if it’s below a block pave driveway then I would prefer traditional over crates unless it’s been designed properly. I don’t get either why it takes the front of the house and the drains ..? Surely the front of the house has an existing soakaway / drainage ..?

CNC a slot into the top of the door, 27.49mm by 43.16mm, then insert a long piece of timber 377.45mm long with a 0.75 degree chamfer on all sides ... Then screw the fixing into the timber behind the facing ....

Timber will move on it’s own as it dries so it’s either a quick way to cracking (timber) or a slower way if the piles do move (blocks) I would go blockwork.

Not enough screws. Find the joists, go along with 60mm screws every 150mm. If they haven’t glued the joists to the boards, it will squeak ..!

Yes - watch the video, it’s about the size of a matchbox. The receiver can be paired with a lot of different switches - the dimmer ones are retractive so don’t “show” they are on, but that is useful in a powercut as all receivers fail safe as off. Terminals are quite small, easier to wire fly leads to them and then use Wagos into the ceiling space to replace a ceiling rose. Also worth remembering which downlight you put it behind too ....... ask me how I know ..!!!

Depending on the length you may find Tracpipe quicker and easier as it’s installed in a single length with no joints.

Don’t do it ..!! ASHP supplier is talking rubbish ..!! A diverter can transfer seconds worth of excess power to a resistance heater (ie an immersion) that reacts instantly. Try that with an ASHP and it will not even power up the fan and compressor before the available power is used.

Pitch and headlap relate to the slates. Depending on the size of the slates, the pitch of the roof determines the headlap or overlap and the sizing of the slates too if they are diminishing size etc.