PeterW

Seal up where you are running the UFH and dehumidifiers as otherwise you’re just trying to drain the world of moisture. We used to use a sheet of PIR propped tight against a door frame when drying out rooms as it keeps the heat in and the room drys quicker.

You can get wall mounted ones - not that big tbh That is very low for a retrofit - what is your spec for walls/floor etc

Here you go https://www.selfbuild.uk.com/forms/products/SelfBuild/SB_1_QuickQuote.aspx Standard Zurich policy

No but a standard construction all risk policy would suffice. Will cost you about £300 I would expect for the build period

No. depending on what’s under the slate / tiles then it could become a nightmare. I would bond on PIR backed plasterboard and then screw through it and tape the joints and be done with it

PIR Insulation on pallets with decent tarp over is fine - if you’re talking rockwool or similar then it is better inside. No space for a container ..?

Nope - your glycol will be an inhibited glycol mix so not 100% glycol.

What make of unit is it ..?? And North or South of Nottingham ..?

Ok looks like PVA which isn’t suitable for anhydrite plus the water getting to it would also support that as it will have debonded when it got wet.

Surface laitence on the screed ..? Is it concrete or cement screed..? What primer and what SLC did they use ..? Not seen one that works below 5°C and SLC not setting is unusual. I would rip up and start again

Where are you in the U.K…? Could be ice build up on the intake impeller

@GrantMcscott have you had an air test done ..? You need to tape the inside of the frames - cut the reveal back, tape the window over the foam (cut it flush) and then use an 80/20 tape to seal the whole window. Then re-board and skim.

No… but it will be a reasonably thick wall anyway unless you go with expensive insulation or compromise the uValue working from outside: 22mm fibre cement cladding 25mm batten Tyvek or similar 11mm OSB 120mm stud / full full PIR 25mm batten/overlay PIR/VCL 12.5mm plasterboard That is 215mm and about the minimum you can do structurally and gives around 0.17 as a uValue. You can run the inner battens horizontally between the sockets to give you the service void. Lots of aluminum tape on the PIR joints creates your VCL.

Yes it can be done but needs something to stop it dropping if it bows so running netting or non woven fabric across the joists helps a lot.

Yep - Sticks Like Sh!t or any of the other sticky hybrid sealants are best if you can’t get CT1 or BT1. Smear on the outer bath flange, same on the plastic bits and then tighten down the waste into the washer internally.

It’s a Daiichi relay and they make them still but the distributors are all industrial type places. https://www.j-dec.co.jp/en/pages/30/smarts/ You may have to off board the relay using fly leads to use something more standard, or do a Din mount somewhere.

Is there a screw on the inside of the metal plate inside the bath ..??

200/23000 is what you’re suggesting or just shy of 0.5 degrees out. That means over a 5km visual line, the horizon will move 43m left or right …. That’s not worth the hassle of moving !!! you also have the issue that you need to centre on the foundations - unless your founds are 800mm or wider then you will end up on an edge and the BCO may have something to say about that. Leave it alone, and crack on

core drill them after !!!

the valves hold ok but the flow ports are not isolating so they will push past.

States concrete in the technical details

Pressure testing the individual loops is probably the best approach but it’s a ballsache to do. Unless the manifold is frozen solid I can’t see how pipe in concrete will split over a joint blowing out unless it was damaged during installation.

That would give you 3-4 mins run time of shower. Why not just put the immersion in the tank on ..? And why not heat the whole tank off peak on E7 ..?

A 3kW Willis is nowhere near powerful enough to provide instant hot water - you need upward of 6-7kW, 10kW for a decent flow at 45°C I would be putting a TS in with multiple immersions, or a UVC with a thermal separator from the boiler stove and build it out properly

This stuff would do it but do the posts and gravel boards and then drop the panels in https://www.stonecare4u.co.uk/product/essential-all-stone-sealer-satin-finish/