PeterW

You can buy decent smoke pellets in Toolstation and Screwfix - just chuck 3 or 4 together and light them and shut the door - you can then see outside what the draw is like and if the joint leaks.

yep although they need to be tight into the block so if they are hanging I tend to leave them an inch or two long into the cavity and screw them to the nogs or the strong back, and when the blocks are up take the screws out and pull them tight into the blocks and nail into place. Don’t forget to go back and seal round them properly..!

That’s a standard conservatory rail beam with what looks like Opal polycarbonate in a pretty standard profile system. The reason it’s cold isn’t just the roof it’s the walls !! Single skin with no insulation is guaranteed to be cold. You could line it with a 4x2 frame full filled with Insulation and set 25mm in from the wall to give a cavity and then build the roof off the timber framing, you’d need to work out the bit above the door and window but it’s all pretty do-able. Flat roof and remove the coping stones and fly the roof over the brickwork. Would need to watch the floor levels and ensure you’ve got a proper DPM but other than that it’s not a big job as @Conor says.

Can it not recirculate ..? Usually go straight through the wall behind the extractor if you want external - is that not an option ..? Make and model would help along with a photo or a plan

Cheque-A-Trade, Rusty Trader, Federation of Master Bodgers are just that .. paid for ways to advertise and get jobs. They care about their income not your jobs - none of my local go to trades are on any of them and their work is first class. As has been said before - go and look around, see who is building and what the sites look like as you can tell a lot about a trade from how the site is kept. But don’t look at vans as they tell you nothing ..! Apart from who the sparky is as it’s a 71 plate shiny VW Transporter and it’s nice and clean … 🤣

Nope - if the outside skin isn’t up then you can stitch drill a row of holes and push it through from the block side. If the outer skin is up then you may need to drill a bigger hole to take the leg and the push through and rotate it to hook behind the blocks. Those straps are stabilising your walls and tying the middle of the house together - you don’t want to be missing them out of frigging it with a few screws and plugs …

Does the boost button work ..? Could be a duff immersion

Yep … although hasn’t the Vaillant got one built in ..? That should be more than man enough to push heat into the manifold.

Ok so you can force it to constant if you read the manual

So your Red/1-34 lights on your pump assuming it’s in programme mode not fault mode, and it is in PMW mode. That is external control mode not internal so has someone been pushing buttons..? If it’s left like that it will run at 100% flow rate but would check this. Probably need to get it into internal mode (assuming there is no PMW controller, just a relay) and set it to the correct curve start with the quick guide here https://cdn1.omnie.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/20180601120219/GRUNFOSS-UPM3-FLEX-AS.pdf

doesn’t that only work with a perfect floor as you need to know the pipe volume / spread in the floor as that has a direct influence on the transfer or are you assuming 100mm spacing ..?

If you’re doing that then seal up all the gaps etc and fit MVHR. You’ll find a draft from a window vent more annoying and colder than a centralised PIV. Either way you’re removing the same amount of heat from the building if you aren’t using either heat exchange to limit it or adding in heat using a post PIV heater.

Yes More likely 4” iron Potentially on 1.08 but could be on the sink waste this is fine but watch your levels as you need about a 40mm drop from WC to stack on that and you may find you need a WC with a high outlet to do that on the furthest WC so you don’t end up under the level of the second WC outlet. Needs to be a Y / swept T into the main run. Your bigger issue will be the shower in 1.08 as it will be near floor level - the drains to the left from the kitchen seem to go to a different stack..?

But the OP has DHW on this so unless he’s got split temps set on the ASHP and this is set up as W plan using a pair of 2 port valves and can only do DHW or UFH, then you need the blending and the pump set. That leads to overheating of smaller zones - only works when you have a single large zone. Much better is to use self balancing actuators that reduce flow to balance to the d7°C or similar. Agree however the best practice is to have the pump on the cool side for longevity and pull through valves so the flow pump would be removed. Yes it’s why best practice is to include either a large volume LLH or buffer in systems needing heat when the min output of the heat source is above the max input needed into the circuit.

That doesn’t work. Mixers are there to protect the floor and also balance flow, and the manifold circulator will pull a very small amount of water when needed based on the blending temperature. Remove that lot and the ASHP will short cycle when you have only one open loop toward the end of the heating cycle. Don’t know why there is a flow and return pump unless the pipe lengths are long, but a single on return would be fine. I would be checking wiring and controls.

To flush it with what ..??? Neat gin.??!!! Turn the boiler off, depending on the one you’ve got ideally remove the pump and fit the connections onto the valve flanges, open the gate valves and switch on. Add some system cleaner and run accordingly !! Open and close your rads in turn , rubber mallet to the bottom rail can remove a lot of crud. Rinse and repeat, refit the pump, add inhibitor and water and job done.

Looks like a doctors surgery !!!

Looks good to me

250 litre minimum on the UVC, 210 litres is too small for a 4 bed where you could end up with multiple sequential showers etc. Boiler size is by heat loss calculation - if you’ve gone down the UFH route already and have sized it to meet the demand (ie pipe spacing gives correct W/m2 for the space) then now you get heat in becomes a moot point - ASHP could also be used.

Floor needs to be 0.10 to be reasonable. ACH of 2 is fine but what’s your end goal..? PassivHouse..? Or just something with low bills ..??

Those are uValues not airtightness values OK but air tightness isn’t about the frame - it’s about everything including windows/doors/ventilation etc. You need to look at like for like.

Not in current water regs as the taps and the air gaps within are supposed to meet the requirements. Installing a 28mm spring loaded check valve though in a 22mm supply pipe isn’t that difficult and tbh and change of £15 all done so becomes a bit of a no brainer.

If it’s sheathed with OSB and you know where the battens are then just use 5x60 screws - plenty strong enough and it won’t affect the VCL as you’re filling the hole you create with a screw.

Just use 80mm frame fixings, drill a hole through the batten into the block behind and knock the frame fix through. Just make sure the plate hole is big enough for the head of the fixing

If you glue every board to each other and to the joists then it’s going nowhere - just a tip to wear a baseball cap when walking round under the floor when you’ve fitted it as D4 glue in your hair is not a nice thing to remove …