PeterW

Could be a legionella cycle taking the tank up to 65c. Or a frost stat controlling the unit to stop overnight freezing but unlikely as you don’t have water going outside.

Not sure who has designed that build up, but there are layers missing. Cellulose won’t work in that situation for a ceiling, you will need some sort of OSB layer above the joists and below the battens to trap the insulation. You also won’t get to building regulations levels of insulation unless it is 350mm thick - that is a very thick and very heavy roof to try and do with standard timbers. If you are doing this yourself then make it easy. Build a standard flat roof and then use tapered PIR above the deck. This will give you the fall needed - you can slope it both ways from the middle - and then bond on 12mm OSB and the membrane ensuring it goes up and over the top of the parapet. This completely removes the need to have a ventilation gap anywhere, and seals the box tight. Also looks like you are missing a counterbatten in the wall build up - again, this needs proper detail as you will need OSB outer layers for racking strength and to contain the cellulose.

You have essentially 3 standard oil rads trying to heat a house - it is not going to be quick and in reality it will only increase if input exceeds losses. You need to understand the basic idea that : temp increase = current temp - losses + input So your system can only put in say 2 degree per hour, but you’re losing 1 degree per hour, so net is 1 degree increase per hour. You run it for 3 hours and it is going to get to 17.5c, but then start to decline when it goes off. What you need to do is run it for a while to get it up to temperature and it stays at that for a day or two. Only then can you start to dial down the settings. As you also have a wood burner it may also be worth getting that lit and running it for a good while to help the background heat levels and stop the heat pump having to do the heavy lifting. All this will help.

Sounds like this is wired as S Plan with 2 port valves. Does the tank have a stat on it ..?? And is the DHW valve closing properly ..? You can check this by turning off DHW on the programmer and just running the heating circuit and seeing if you get flow after the valve and the pipe getting hot.

How big is the TS..? Grant will be out of condensing mode at 60c return and not sure what / where the tank stat is on the tank or what it’s set to in order to satisfy the boiler. I’ve seen TS systems with a blender to stop cold shock into the boiler but usually on solid fuel - is it purely hot to top and cold from the bottom on yours and the pump in the return ..?

Sounds like the mid position valve is failing. What sort of boiler is it ..?

That’s the felling licence rules for woodland in Scotland, the measurements in England and Wales are 80mm at 1.5m for felling, and 75mm for a TPO .. confused yet..? however from the regulations there is this : In any calendar quarter you may fell up to 5 cubic metres (m3) of growing trees on your property without a felling licence, as long as no more than 2m3 are sold. The volume of timber is assessed by measuring the amount of wood in the main tree stem(s) where this is greater than 8cm in diameter over bark. For large broadleaved trees, this includes major branches. What you cannot do though is systematically clear a while area under this ruling - quarter by quarter - so be sure that the 3 acres you have @BogBeast is classed as garden not woodland.

Hep2O is suitable for a HRC, the bronze pump is the only non standard item. In terms of connections, everything in Hep2O is push fit and as @SuperJohnG says you just need a decent set of cutters. I’m on my second pair of these in 10 years. Only place you then need copper is to make tails for the pump and into the UVC, all the rest can be in Hep2O push fit.

Ok so.. is the boiler turned up all the way..? A Vortex should be able to get to 80c. And is the pump the right way round ..?? I’ve seen pumps installed the wrong way round and that would be meaning a very hot pump also pushing into the lower connections on the TS. Can you measure the inlet and return temps on the TS..??

So in a cottage that size I would expect a 12-16kw gas boiler, so that ASHP is working twice as hard and as long as a gas boiler. I don’t think it is running for long enough. By your comment above, does that mean you are getting some internal insulation added to the cottage...?

So who made the choice ..?? Surely the supplier did the calculations ..??

I think the thermostat needs moving and you need to probably bite the bullet for a week or two and get the system running up to 21-22c from 7am-9pm and start to get the fabric of the building up to temperature. Without that, you are going to struggle to get any warmth into the house.

Sorry but get the electrician to read the manual - if they screw up then it’s on them and if they don’t know then they ask the supplier. If you advise wrongly and they blow up your £800 inverter then you have no-one to come back on but yourself.

Ok so this is top of page 7 - and I’ve only skim read the few pages CAUTION!! Before connecting to AC input power source, please install a separate AC breaker between inverter and AC input power source. This will ensure the inverter can be securely disconnected during maintenance and fully protected from over current of AC input. The recommended spec of AC breaker is 16A for 1.5KW and 32A for 3KW and 50A for 5KW. CAUTION!! There are two terminal blocks with “IN” and “OUT” markings. Please do NOT mis-connect input and output connectors. WARNING! All wiring must be performed by a qualified personnel. So you need to install a breaker between the inverter and the supply. Not rocket science. But the last point is key - if you’re asking those sorts of questions, you’re not qualified to install this. Electricity doesn’t have a smell, or make your socks wet when you get it wrong, it just kills - instantly. And you’re talking about wiring where then only thing between you and the grid is a 100A supply fuse that will blow long after you’ve become a crisp.

That’s 5 months of the year, but for the remainder it will be less so will even out.

I’d just read pages 5-7 of the manual ... https://www.photonicuniverse.com/upload/file/Manuals/Iconica/IC3-BM/IC3-BM_user_manual.pdf

7.5kw is the size of three fan heaters. That’s not that big to be honest. It will cost about 50-60p an hour to run I reckon depending on your tariff. Feet and legs cold would indicate draughts from under doors etc. Think about getting some draught excluders for door bottoms. I would be tempted to set the temperature on the programmer to 22c and move it into the kitchen (assuming it’s only clipped on the wall) and see what happens.

Is there a plate / label on the outside unit that tells you the output ..? Should say something like 5kW or 8kW Do all the rads get warm at the same time or do they get warm in a certain order ..??

So get them down. Check others too as if you’ve got an arb team on site then getting trimming or crowning done when there is no building on site as new roofs are a magnet for falling branches ...

Is there a TPO or conservation area ..? If not, get them down ASAP ..!!! And any others that need trimming, crowning or potentially are in the way assuming nothing in the outline PP saying you can’t.

Is that for the panels inverter and all the mounting equipment ..?? What brand is the inverter ..? 8k is 28-30 panels depending on power output, there is no way one person can install that in 2 days with all the rails etc to install. That’s the equivalent of 20 mins per panel to rig the roof, install and wire. Do you still have scaffold on the building ..? And have you got planning permission for panels ..?

Rads are ..?? Warm..? Hot..? Cool..? All the same ..?

What is the temperature showing on the controller ..? And none of the rads have thermostatic valves do they..??

I prefer the Daikin as I don’t like the Samsung controller but that is personal preference only.

Big commercial manufacturer who have been around a long time.