PeterW

They should look fine as they are engineering plinths. Always worth getting your specials and blues from the same supplier - the ones I linked are Weinerberger. Also, they do PL7.1 and PL4.1 specials which are the returns - internal and external corners. Look much better than a brickies labourers attempt with a Stihl saw and some gobbo on the joints. Not cheap but well worth it and the brickie will thank you !! https://specialbricks.wienerberger.co.uk/bricks/pl-7/#pl-7-1

Standard engineering blue plinth bricks ..?? Available from most/all builders merchants. https://www.tbsdirect.co.uk/product/brick-plinth-stretcher-blue-pl3.2/hb100130 Do the whole lot in engineering blues (nearly grey anyway) and it will look fine.

MVHR won’t help here - you need big industrial dehumidifiers running as the outside air is probably at 80-90% humidity anyway.

Best way to check a UFH blender is working is to open it all the way and watch for the temperature rise on the gauge then bring it back down - keep an eye on the flow gauges to see if any of them stall. Are the actuators installed or is this just with the manual valve heads ..?

Just start with a couple of days of low heat and then start to ramp it up. Will take time but will be fine.

@Pete turn the MVHR off ... It will not be helping and it will be cooling the house not warming it as you’re pulling in 5°C air that will be being warmed to 8°C or so by the air leaving at 10°C from the rooms. UFH flow needs to be up toward 28°C to get a slab to give you anything like a 17-18°C room temperature. I would set the flow temp on the ASHP to 35°C and run it for 48 hours constant and then see where it is at.

But at 85% efficiency, 8.73kW of heat needs 10.27kW of gas at a cost of 28.75p/hr. Using 5.33kW of electricity at an average of 14.5p would cost you 77.6p/hr or nearly 3 times the cost of gas. Efficiency and cost can be very different !

Yep that’s exactly what it is ..! A 1PM running with a thermo probe header, and 3 DS18S20 Sensors. https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-1pm Plug it all together and connect to the WiFi and it then allows you to set the scenario when you want it to come on and off. Nice thing is you can also override a Shelly with a standard switch, I’ve used one for outside lights which is on a dusk-ish timer and goes off around 10:45pm but a quick push of a button and they are on - no hunting around for a phone or iPad (which you can use) to turn the lights on. I call that the Luddite option..!

You can double face a cottage door - comes out a bit thicker but may be doable.

I fitted one of these with a controller to reduce the power to it, controlled by a Shelly that checks the external air temperature, MVHR supply temperature and the post heater temperature. With it on about 475W it takes the air from 14-27°C which is ideal for the flow rates. It also only pipes it into the upstairs rooms.

Compressor sounds iffy - wonder if it’s lost gas pressure so running hot.

try this https://www.engineering.com/calculators/airflow.htm Just watch for the units - ducts are sold as internal diameter and this calculator uses radius

Check how close a soakaway can be to a boundary (can’t remember if there is a restriction) but shouldn’t be an issue.

Assuming this is just decorative and not structural you can just use something like these. https://www.toolstation.com/stainless-steel-screw-in-wallstarter-tie/p63017#full-desc If they are old bricks that are uneven, start about 20mm away from your blockwork all the way along so the front face is fair finished. Back till the cavity as you go.

Unlikely to have large fibre or network cables through a garden without it being pretty clear where they are. Is it a built up area ..? Your conveyancer should pick up any water or sewage pipes but ask explicitly for the maps.

Welcome..! Reasonably priced and Surrey don’t usually go in the same topic - look forward to seeing the plans and the questions are always welcome.

Saw something similar done with a small drill bit and a piece of Fermacell ... and about 300 tiny holes each with a fibre in it ..! Looked amazing but very time consuming ..!

How long is all that ..?? Minimum distances for WC to stack are in the regs. Is this all first floor stuff ...?? Got a plan layout not section ..? And is that drawn at 1:80..?? Last bath and basin want to be changed if you can but need to see plan layout.

These are very good for the money - feel solid in use https://www.rutlands.com/sp+routing-routers-1-4-routers-precision-1-4-router-710w-variable-speed-rutlands+r5000

If it’s new and has been correctly insulated with vermiculite then the clay liner will be fine. What normally happens when they cool down is due to poor install of liners - they should be lipped correctly and sealed - and they aren’t insulated. Used to occur often with brickwork chimneys.

No it’s not ..!! If he’s installed it and he needs to check for leaks and make sure it works ! Just sounds like it’s not tightened up.

Where is the leak ..? Top of the clear plastic bit or somewhere else ..??

+1 to what @Russell griffiths said. Can you get a vertical stack with a mushroom vent on the top (or a hockey stick) and run it down the back wall to a couple of air vents to promote airflow ..? And is the wall being built inside the Anderson structure front and back ..? If so can you not go low tech and cover it with a decent thick DPM and then bury it with a gravel drain all around the last foot or so..?

That is correct for an electric shower but with a UVC or Sunamp the flow rate of hot and cold is constant as it is from a balanced supply control block where hot and cold are equalised.

That’s a do’s and dont’s list, that becomes incorrect further down when it talks about pouring buckets of water down “external drains” as they aren’t connected to the system. Firstly, they could be open gullies and are connected to the system; Secondly, you should not be pouring anything containing cleaning chemicals into rainwater soakaways ..! A giveaway that they have borrowed that list is the last one referring to “faucets”, an American term not a U.K. one, and I would never ever install a system that states the following in its Do’s and Don’ts list (which apparently is part of their warranty..??!?) Allow anti-bacterial substances, (hand wash, dettox, etc) to enter the unit. These will KILL the unit. Wipe your hands first with a paper towel and throw this in the bin, then wash your hands in the sink as this will remove most of the anti-bacteria hand wash before it enters the sewage treatment plant That wins the bull5h!t of the year award for being utter rubbish ..!! I can clean my toilet with Ecover Toilet Cleaner which is septic safe (but anti bacterial...) but can’t wash my hands with anti bacterial soap..??!! I think you will struggle to find common liquid hand soap now that isn’t anti bacterial...?? I’ve installed sewage treatment systems where the influent was from kitchens using commercial dishwashers and multiple anti bac hand sanitiser stations along with other surface cleaner and they have never killed the tanks. These are systems that are also monitored for effluent quality. British Water produce a very good guide that explains in more detail what you should and shouldn’t do - the comment about changing products is included but is more correct in its statement that it reduces efficiency for a while, not that it causes the systems to stop working. Well worth a read by anyone with a sewage treatment plant. But in terms of the BioPure, it’s another one off the specifier list ... WPL do a very similar product without the ridiculous warranty terms, so I would look elsewhere.