PeterW

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I’d go for it being a duff actuator not opening fully then. Very low flow would do this.

does it move when the pump kicks in ..?? Have you got any of the actuator caps..? Take an actuator off and see if the pin moves properly, and also check the actuator operates.

There is good money in it, but a lot of clients don’t want to pay as the proportion of fee to build cost increases, hence my comment about what you want and how how deep your pockets are ...

Tank will have been for flow not pressure. 120m distance and 5m head isn’t a problem - is the current house on the same main ..?? You could start from measuring there. Outside tap or one direct off the main is the place to start. Check the standpipes too as they will give a good indication of pressure but not flow depending on pipe size. You should budget to put in a 25mm if you’ve got over 4 bar at the road, or 32mm if you have less than that. You’ll also need a decent flow - upward of 20 l/min is ideal. An accumulator can go outside in a shed, but they are quite bulky. 450 litre accumulator is around £500 so double that to cover install etc. What size hot water tank have you planned and how much plant space have you got ..?

Depends on the service you want ..? And how deep your pockets are ..? What do you want them to do for you ..?

ok so one at a time .. CapEx of an oil boiler plus ASHP - pick one and stick to it as both don’t work together as one is low grade heat and the other is high grade heat. They need different set ups, installs and controls and you’d be better with just having ASHP with Immersion backups (UVC and Buffer tanks) as you will never use the oil and that will be £5k in the bin. You probably have boosters today as you have tanks in the attic and they give crap pressure - 0.5-0.8bar at best. As long as you have decent mains pressure then you don’t need anything further. If mains pressure is low then you need to budget for an accumulator and pump, and that’s budget the money and the space. First step is find out your static and dynamic water pressure, and what sort of flow you’ve got. Does the plot have its final water supply installed or are you having a new supply ..??

Why do you need pumps ..? No tanks means everything will be mains fed - so Unvented Cylinder - so you will have all water hot and cold at mains pressure. Also are you saying your DHW heat source will be E7/Immersion heaters..? What about space heating ..?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UFH-8-Way-230v-Underfloor-Heating-Wiring-Centre-/164077546694?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 £46.50 shipped .. put the change to some decent clothes...

Heatmiser is expensive crap in my opinion and it goes out of date quickly and you can’t just upgrade bits of it when it breaks. Simple 8 channel UFH wiring centre off eBay is £45..

And that’s why I steer well clear of that brand ..!!! So £75 gets this, when you can get the same functions for half that without the HM sticker on it ...

Anything like that will do. 900x400 for £169 delivered here https://www.cylinders2go.co.uk/shop/vented-cylinders/direct-vented-copper-cylinders/900-x-400-direct-copper-cylinder/

Not how I read this ..? On board the UH8 are two heating time channels, each zone allows you to specify which time channel it should follow. 2 additional time channel connections are provided for hot water control or other auxiliary devices.

You’ve bought the integrated Heatmiser system - why..?? That wiring centre isn’t dumb so you’re going to have issues with the Fibaro I reckon - you just needed a really basic wiring centre as that has loads of built in functions that you will need to override. Have you installed it ..?

yes as soon as power goes they return to closed. Continual auto balancing to keep flow and return at a 7°C delta and near instant opening. Wax cap ones take up to 2-3 minutes to open and close.

cheap wax cap tat Get self balancing motorised ones from Wunda and do it properly.

Resin bolts ...

I think it may be the pumped outflow from the sewage treatment plant , the brown will be the start of the leach field.

@SuperPav why not use EPS beads and then line the inside with insulated plasterboard or PIR..? What is the existing cavity below the new extension filled with ..?

Large sheets aren’t certified for cavity insulation use. The BBA certificate doesn’t include this use case and some BCOs may not accept it as acceptable use.

Hook the screw behind the steel bit on the right, insert it into a suitably sized hole and squeeze the handles ...

There is no easy correlation between stove size and heat output. Look up the 5kw Hwam stoves, they are very big but small output. This Hwam Beethoven with a soapstone surround is only 4.5kw for example. At over 1050mm tall, it looks big but isn’t ..!

How many sockets per room..?? Spots or down lights or pendants..? Walls in block so chasing to do ..?? Solar PV wiring ..? Lots of variables and not sure where you are in the UK...?

It will be lined with vermiculite panels which absorb the heat and insulate the firebox to keep burn temps and flue temps high. 230°C max sounds about right.

module that looks a bit like an RCD with no switch in it ..! Considering retrofitting one of these https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/danson-100a-main-switch-4-modules-metal-consumer-unit-with-spd-type-2-750647