PeterW

Inmersion is wired off Boost Heater. or do you mean a different stat..?

OK so exactly the same as I told @ToughButterCup up the top. Dig it out, expose all round the pipe. Then you need a decent disk cutter with a diamond disk on it, strip a section out that will take one of these https://chandlersbs.co.uk/hepworth-sj1-2-clay-ob-jnct-plain-45-150x100mm Install with the flow, and ensure the spigot is slightly higher than the centreline of the pipe run. Then you need two Flexseal 150mm couplers to make the joints on the new section. https://www.flexseal.co.uk/product/drain-couplings Finally you need a 100mm clay to 110mm Flexseal coupler to connect to the spur so you can do the rest in uPVC.

So you can’t do your own sewer connection as it has to be done by an approved contractor. Or do you mean within your own boundary ..? Below 180mm, most sewerage providers require a full breach of the pipe and a connection using a preformed tee and the correct bands on either end into clay. Saddles in clay pipes are usually treppaned into place and epoxy mortared - specialist job tbh.

I would ignore that - where you have the second room stat I would make that a tank stat on the buffer so it calls for heat when the buffer is cold. Let the UFH do it’s own thing and simplify it.

It’s why they suggest laying it at 90 Degree layers so you remove the possible gaps.

It can’t ..! Need to put a stat in or on it somehow. Has it got any insertion pockets or is it foamed..?? And thats a really crap way to wire a pump and valve on that picture ..! Trigger the valve with the thermostat, then use the micro switch to trigger the pump otherwise the pump is pushing against a closed valve. Daisy chaining is poor design Also on the other picture it show a NV thermostat connection and then states 230c switching ..? Which is it ..?

No buffer tank ..?? Who’s manifold controller is it...? I would be using the heat enable to open the zone valve and use the micro switch to trigger the ASHP. Does the ASHP only have one temperature setting ..?

So you are getting approx 145kWh from that - that is a lot of heat ..!! Is that all the time or just when it’s cold .?

Biomass boilers generally can’t work without a store or buffer so you would need to keep something for the pellet stove to dump into. Sounds like the store is piped wrong - ideally it should take water from the bottom 25% for heating and the top 50% for DHW - have you got a schematic of the tank showing the connections ..? Assuming that the tank is at 35°C and you want it to 72°C, and flat out the pellet boiler is giving 6kW direct to the heating and the rest to the TS, it should be fully loaded inside 2 hours. Sounds like something is out of whack on the pellet boiler - how many pellets is it using per burn or per day ..?

Too much thread showing on that top hose I think - wonder if that’s the cause of the leak and will run down toward the copper.

So are you going to get some more insulation and get it up there ..?? Not a difficult job to do and more is better for sound and heat insulation

Space. You don’t have 150mm depth and you will also get a lot of wetting of that cloak the way it’s done. Makes more sense to just overcloak it and ensure you have a decent vertical waterproof detail.

Depending on the slope I would go with 75-100mm overlaps. More is better but leaves lumpy lead work to deal with ..!

Depends. I’d want the verge off, strip back and bed the lead min 50mm back onto the brickwork and then bed a new cloaking board over the lead / wall junction and then the tiles. Hidden gutter wants to be non 75x25mm, deeper if possible, and get the last row of tiles within 20mm of the wall. Needs lots of careful detailing and the lead would probably need to be 450mm wide so wants to be in short bays no more than 1200mm long with decent overlaps. You’ll need a decent roofer who knows how to work lead to do that and it’s not a quick job, especially if there is a chimney in the roofline too.

If you want it to look the same as the sprayed area then buy an airbrush kit - not expensive.

Yep should be done as a hidden valley with the lead lapped under the top verge board and then the lower tiles laid over the top of the valley leaving as small a gap as possible.

This stuff will take 18kg and work as your 3 core supply too - top can be made off to a chandelier hook or rose, IKEA used to sell the best plain ones. https://flexform.co.uk/product/sus-230/

TBH that is my thoughts on all of these as you can stick an immersion in the buffer and get a backup if the ASHP fails or if you want a dump load for a PV array. For the sake of £2-300 it does seem like the logical solution, but in this instance the OP is referring to, the installation is authorised and as per the MIs so Panasonic need to cough up and fix it.

Sounds like the paint hasn’t bonded correctly to the underlying plaster. What was the first coat..??

Why go sand and cement and then board and plaster ..? Why not use bonding then multi finish and you’ll take out cost and materials. Holes for TVs etc are negligible - you need to watch for details at floors , joists and ceilings as @tonyshouse says.

Nope ..! For the flue it would need lining and restructuring, and for the MVHR it would need ducting installed and a way to balance the “other” outlet, whether that was inlet or exhaust. MVHR straight through the wall reduces condensation risks and makes it easier, boiler through the roof is a standard method any plumber should know how to do.

How much does the fitting weigh ..?

Ok so ... the buyer may be using an Indian bank such as SBI (State Bank of India) as they do a lot of buy to let loans and also recognise non UK investments and securities for parts of mortgages. They also could be using an Islamic Sharia mortgage as under Islamic tradition interest cannot be charged. There are plenty of reasons as to why this may be the case, but I would speak to your buyer and tell them if they want a PCC then it’s their cost to obtain it.

1.2m between MVHR inlet and exhaust is fine. Can you get the flue higher up the ridge by swinging the boiler onto the stud wall to the left ..?? Ideally you want 1500 vertically between the inlet of the MVHR and the flue - if you can offset them even better.

So in the MIs it states the following : Go back to Panasonic, quote their own MIs and say this did not require a buffer as over 50 litres. Give them the exact reference above and then ask them when they would like to send their engineer ....