Onoff

Double act, it's like watching Fun With Flags!

Don't forget you can have MDF powder coated.

How about sliding doors? I used 18mm MDF to put sliding doors across one end of a narrow room. Just ran the router down the long edges, MDF primed and glossed. Bolted the top rollers through. You can hardly see them once glossed. Note I'm sitting in the cheap seats here but is doesn't half hide a lot of tat! Made one fubar, the bolts were too long on one door and I damaged the one behind. Never got round to fixing it...which is most unlike me! Also need to add a strip so you can't see the top track. (SWMBO painted them):

5 year g'tee. Free postage I think: http://m.clasohlson.com/uk/Cocraft-HA-230-S-Angle-Grinder/18-3189?gclid=COevqv-R3tQCFWi17QodcmMBaQ

No use crying over spilt milk and all that but I've just looked back and appear to have NO OVERLAP on the mesh. I thought I was being clever "linking" the sheets with off cuts of re-bar bent back at the ends. I can see how it's a weak point and defeats the object of the mesh a bit but hey ho, I'll know next time! At least thanks to you I'll know why the crack in the tiles in future occured! I was a floor virgin is my only defense! Ref stuff getting through it's got to be more critical with a wet mix as opposed to semi dry screed. With the Polypanels above where I felt their overlaps were a bit "open" I added further duct tape. Even then I wasn't convinced. Only hope was as my wet mix went down it further compressed the panel joints. I did too, gun foam all edges where the Polypanels met the UFH upstands, sunken bath shuttering etc: I wonder in reality how bad the foil / concrete reaction is and what the result is? BTW, DON'T FORGET YOUR FIBRES IN THE MIX.....I DID!

Old school steel! I recently went and got a freebie 10'x12' pent roof timber shed (should have said no). Wouldn't take much to repair tbh. Made umpteen years ago with a diddy brass makers plate on it. The 4 sides are held together with just 8 (3/8"?) bolts and they all came apart.

You could have gone totally OTT and used spring washers or nyloc nuts. I trust you're not going to leave the fixings in primer and colour match to the beam?

Weep holes at the front maybe and don't have the rear gap?

Looking really good there. All I can contribute is that I tied my mesh bits together with the armour from cut back SWA cable. Tend to always keep some handy. Though I did foil tape my Celotex joints, in places to repair the ripped foil face I even used some decent quality tin foil stuck on with spray contact adhesive. I had Polypipe trays you might remember that negated the need for a membrane and chairs. I'd go with whatever cheap VCL you have I think and repair locally with any old tape. Only there to stop the concrete reacting with the foil. Tbh you could use bin bags, rubble sacks or the carefully saved plastic bags that cement comes in!

I think a big part is to ensure that anything deemed structural is welded by a coded welder to try and ensure a quality and ultimately safe weld. The Excecution Class is I think related to risk. There's a very long thread on it on the mig welding forum

Leisure it ain't working on the daily drivers! I want to be in the garage working on the Capris with the MIG having made a rollover jig (got all the steel and a couple of farm jacks) with the arc welder. Then getting a cold one from the glass fronted DIY beer fridge.

The wife cut the lawn with the ride on yesterday. Today I asked how come she'd left the tops of the daisies intact. "Because YOU didn't sharpen the blades when I asked!" (I did load the dishwasher tonight though).

I sense a bathroom dig again? My excuse at the moment is I don't want to do anything in the house noise/dust wise so as not to distract No.1 son from his A Level revision. So I'm getting away with the tree house, playing with cars etc. I did drag him out yesterday to help change the wishbones on SWMBO's Pug though. We have to be careful with him in strong sunshine in case he bursts into flames though! I love shouting "Stick to the shadows!" His last exam this week so I suppose I'll have to get back into it!

Just to confirm that this Parweld XTS 162 is impressing whoever has tried it so far. Uses less amps for the same result that their own heavy, traditional buzz boxes. This is work's one but I'm going to buy my own plus the add on TIG kit for it now. The BiL is I think up for one too. (Might get a discount!) AND it means I can finish the WACKER PLATE! ...well at least get the welding done! Pics to follow...don't wait up!

Ahem! If you remember I actually used TWO Lucozade bottles...

Say a company's business is not, on the face it structural steel fabrication. Maybe they repair HGV trailers, agricultural equipment of even make long range fuel tanks to take advantage of Continental prices. Just examples of companies I've dealt with. Nothing to stop them buying in I beams for you and "fabricating" whatever. They probably won't be compliant I'm guessing. Their core business is simply NOT structural steel.

I got this from my fabricator if it helps: "...Proudly announces its compliance with the new BS EN 1090 standard for structural steelwork to Execution Class level 2. Communaute Europeenne ('CE' or 'European Community') was introduced in 1995 and CE Marking was created to stimulate the free circulation of goods within the European Community by removing barriers created by differing standards in member states. When applied to any product or equipment indicates that the manufacturer or its authorised EU representative has declared that the product of equipment compiles with all applicable European Directives. Certification will become mandatory in the UK in July 2014 from which time it will become illegal to sell structural steelwork in the UK or the Republic of Ireland that does not carry the CE Mark. CE Marking is not allowed unless the Factory Production Control (FPC) system under which they are produced has been assessed by a suitable certification body that has been approved to the European Commission. Steelwork has been divided into four categories for certification and a steelwork contractor may not produce steel in a higher category than it is certified. The categories are: • Execution Class 1 • Execution Class 2 • Execution Class 3 • Execution Class 4 Proudly announces its compliance with the new BS EN 1090 standard for structural steelwork to Execution Class level 2. Communaute Europeenne ('CE' or 'European Community') was introduced in 1995 and CE Marking was created to stimulate the free circulation of goods within the European Community by removing barriers created by differing standards in member states. When applied to any product or equipment indicates that the manufacturer or its authorised EU representative has declared that the product of equipment compiles with all applicable European Directives. Certification will become mandatory in the UK in July 2014 from which time it will become illegal to sell structural steelwork in the UK or the Republic of Ireland that does not carry the CE Mark. CE Marking is not allowed unless the Factory Production Control (FPC) system under which they are produced has been assessed by a suitable certification body that has been approved to the European Commission. Steelwork has been divided into four categories for certification and a steelwork contractor may not produce steel in a higher category than it is certified. The categories are: • Execution Class 1 • Execution Class 2 • Execution Class 3 • Execution Class 4"

It's a handy parts holder, somewhere to put the chuck key, cutting compound, various bits and occasional mug of TEA if I'm lucky! Bit of a biatch to change speeds with it but then for most stuff I do one speed suits all!

Nah! The "Welsh" method is what you want! Fit the outside tap brass back plate so the 3 holes are nice and symmetrical. Then twenty something turns of PTFE tape on the thread and screw in the tap. You'll know when to stop and it'll be nice and level! (9bar on this btw). (Copyright @Nickfromwales )

Seen the news? They're evacuating all the sister blocks on the Chalcots estate as the residents safety can't be guaranteed.

His thinking went Rectorseal...that lead to rectum as in "wrecked 'em"... Try saying it in an English accent!

Seriously impressed but... How much???

My 3x3m bathroom: I added an admix that has deaerator in to my mix, less air bubbles in it. I use it all the time now. I screwed screed rails either side and made a tamping board. Wanted it pretty accurate as I want to tile straight on top without having to screed. Smooth and level as I think. Had to fettle things with a trowel by the end wall as it pushes the excess that way. If you're screeding later and your footing bricks are pretty level then just tamp using that as a gauge.

Got a Rexon bench drill that lives at work and thats really good At home the weapon of choice is a 350W Rolson cheapo, by Christ has it done some work! I treat it as a portable tool! No guard anymore and the NVR switch died so I had to cobble one up with a spare enclosure, 230V contactor and couple of buttons (simple hold on circuit). I've drilled 6mm st/st plate with a 70mm Starrett before on it. I've also got this Ajax 3 phase bad boy given to me as a set of parts. It was apparently intact but the previous owner took it apart with the intent of converting to single phase but never did. Appears to be all there. (Yes my garage is like my mind !)