Onoff

I had a look for cordless router videos then came across this and forgot all about it:

The big, proper flogging spanner and some short, sharp knocks with a club hammer I reckon. Might struggle with the box spanner if it's been in there for years. Never thought to try but some penetrating oil beforehand might help I guess.

As @Nickfromwales said my bathroom slab is not perhaps atypical of a slab like in your sense where there aren't any walls yet. The divisions were just "shuttering" level with the top of the finished slab. The corner bit is for the wet room and will be laid to falls to the drain. The bath bit is slightly sunken so that the floor of the bath is level with the tiled floor in the bathroom. Figured it would lose some of the bath within the room as the bath is pretty massive and make for a "step free" / "level" experience getting in and out. A LOT of work just to lower the bath a bit but well worth it imo, it just feels "right". Drains are completely hidden too (50mm again thanks to @Nickfromwales and it empties super quick and is near silent). You want a heavy tamping board tbh so it does its job compacting the mix. Two person job makes it easier, one each end. Here's my shed slab, being filled. You can see the tamping board over the back by the fence. Here I used the shuttering to tamp against / for level You can see the fan effect tamp lines one end as the board didn't fit where it was cut into the shallow slope. I didn't bother floating this afterwards btw...it's a SHED! Bang on though if you put a 6' level on it in any direction:

Cheese toasties done in a Breville stay super hot...guess the toast acts as an insulated outer layer.

Some of the dope fiends I've worked with would probably think those caps were lumps of Black Leb and try and shave bits off to smoke!

So.....presumably Greek solar thermal installs use Feta? Best thread for a while this!

Would a high sugar content medium such as jam not work well. I remember as a kid that all the mums made jam as a matter of course and as such there were some scalding incidents. I was always getting told off as in "It's still hot!"

McDonalds Apple Pie! Don't know what sort of sorcery they use to get the PCM technology into them but they certainly hold the heat. Driving in the dark whilst eating one should be part of the test IMO!

Is there an argument maybe that the zinc might have burned off quicker and thus fallen away quicker?

Those were heavy duty back to back 3m lengths. SPOT welds about every 100mm you need to drill out to separate. Also used as extension bars on occasion atop the car roof rack . Since recycled into shed shelving.

I'm still amazed that gutters I see can have no fall in them by design Barsteward! This looks so cool I love it. Even wondering if I could steal the idea when I redo my dormers.

Erm...I SCREWED Unistrut to the stud walls either side then just unscrewed them when the slab had gone off. The tamping board I notched. These show it better:

Maybe I won't then! 9200 rpm I've read elsewhere. Made for Lidl by Einhell.

Aiming to get one myself. From this Sunday 2nd.

Plenty of the 1000W inverter gennies at Lidl in Sevenoaks just now. Also the plunge saws and 12V multitools. ...and Swedish style, Kopparberg rip off cider!

I see and get peripherally involved in "guttering" on commercial buildings. You need to be bloody careful that where you have hidden, male into female joints that they're watertight. I repeatedly see blockages further down the line, backing up, and there's no second line of defense. It overflows the joint and water enters the building! Regular rodding / maintenance is essential.

Bloody cheek! Sorry, seemed (in?)appropriate. Did you plaster yourself? Looks good.

Welcome. Wish I'd found this place years ago. Leeching money on this old place faster than the rain's coming through the dormer and that's saying something!

Can't bring myself to use those slim ali ones. Especially under PIR.

Double act, it's like watching Fun With Flags!

Don't forget you can have MDF powder coated.

How about sliding doors? I used 18mm MDF to put sliding doors across one end of a narrow room. Just ran the router down the long edges, MDF primed and glossed. Bolted the top rollers through. You can hardly see them once glossed. Note I'm sitting in the cheap seats here but is doesn't half hide a lot of tat! Made one fubar, the bolts were too long on one door and I damaged the one behind. Never got round to fixing it...which is most unlike me! Also need to add a strip so you can't see the top track. (SWMBO painted them):

5 year g'tee. Free postage I think: http://m.clasohlson.com/uk/Cocraft-HA-230-S-Angle-Grinder/18-3189?gclid=COevqv-R3tQCFWi17QodcmMBaQ

No use crying over spilt milk and all that but I've just looked back and appear to have NO OVERLAP on the mesh. I thought I was being clever "linking" the sheets with off cuts of re-bar bent back at the ends. I can see how it's a weak point and defeats the object of the mesh a bit but hey ho, I'll know next time! At least thanks to you I'll know why the crack in the tiles in future occured! I was a floor virgin is my only defense! Ref stuff getting through it's got to be more critical with a wet mix as opposed to semi dry screed. With the Polypanels above where I felt their overlaps were a bit "open" I added further duct tape. Even then I wasn't convinced. Only hope was as my wet mix went down it further compressed the panel joints. I did too, gun foam all edges where the Polypanels met the UFH upstands, sunken bath shuttering etc: I wonder in reality how bad the foil / concrete reaction is and what the result is? BTW, DON'T FORGET YOUR FIBRES IN THE MIX.....I DID!