Onoff

This is mine, made by Roebuck. I was in the wholesalers years back and saw it. I've known the owner for like 30 years. They were the "in thing" at the time. He said "Take one (FOC) and try it!" Does seem to make me hit nails more accurately.....but tbh can't remember the last time I used a nail! Last used this to drift the bolt out of a lower ball joint!

That explains a lot....and the hours wasted looking for a magic inverter that fits inside a matchbox!

I'm honestly more than happy with the levelness of my bathroom floor for tiling straight onto. I've dry laid some tiles and they sit fine one to the other. The adhesive bed I feel will take anything up.

And she can cook! (Search Banshee Moon on YouTube ). And she's 50 ffs! My missus is 50 too..... Seriously, 18vdc to 230vac...small inverter?

Would a "weight forward" hammer help?

I had a look for cordless router videos then came across this and forgot all about it:

The big, proper flogging spanner and some short, sharp knocks with a club hammer I reckon. Might struggle with the box spanner if it's been in there for years. Never thought to try but some penetrating oil beforehand might help I guess.

As @Nickfromwales said my bathroom slab is not perhaps atypical of a slab like in your sense where there aren't any walls yet. The divisions were just "shuttering" level with the top of the finished slab. The corner bit is for the wet room and will be laid to falls to the drain. The bath bit is slightly sunken so that the floor of the bath is level with the tiled floor in the bathroom. Figured it would lose some of the bath within the room as the bath is pretty massive and make for a "step free" / "level" experience getting in and out. A LOT of work just to lower the bath a bit but well worth it imo, it just feels "right". Drains are completely hidden too (50mm again thanks to @Nickfromwales and it empties super quick and is near silent). You want a heavy tamping board tbh so it does its job compacting the mix. Two person job makes it easier, one each end. Here's my shed slab, being filled. You can see the tamping board over the back by the fence. Here I used the shuttering to tamp against / for level You can see the fan effect tamp lines one end as the board didn't fit where it was cut into the shallow slope. I didn't bother floating this afterwards btw...it's a SHED! Bang on though if you put a 6' level on it in any direction:

Cheese toasties done in a Breville stay super hot...guess the toast acts as an insulated outer layer.

Some of the dope fiends I've worked with would probably think those caps were lumps of Black Leb and try and shave bits off to smoke!

So.....presumably Greek solar thermal installs use Feta? Best thread for a while this!

Would a high sugar content medium such as jam not work well. I remember as a kid that all the mums made jam as a matter of course and as such there were some scalding incidents. I was always getting told off as in "It's still hot!"

McDonalds Apple Pie! Don't know what sort of sorcery they use to get the PCM technology into them but they certainly hold the heat. Driving in the dark whilst eating one should be part of the test IMO!

Is there an argument maybe that the zinc might have burned off quicker and thus fallen away quicker?

Those were heavy duty back to back 3m lengths. SPOT welds about every 100mm you need to drill out to separate. Also used as extension bars on occasion atop the car roof rack . Since recycled into shed shelving.

I'm still amazed that gutters I see can have no fall in them by design Barsteward! This looks so cool I love it. Even wondering if I could steal the idea when I redo my dormers.

Erm...I SCREWED Unistrut to the stud walls either side then just unscrewed them when the slab had gone off. The tamping board I notched. These show it better:

Maybe I won't then! 9200 rpm I've read elsewhere. Made for Lidl by Einhell.

Aiming to get one myself. From this Sunday 2nd.

Plenty of the 1000W inverter gennies at Lidl in Sevenoaks just now. Also the plunge saws and 12V multitools. ...and Swedish style, Kopparberg rip off cider!

I see and get peripherally involved in "guttering" on commercial buildings. You need to be bloody careful that where you have hidden, male into female joints that they're watertight. I repeatedly see blockages further down the line, backing up, and there's no second line of defense. It overflows the joint and water enters the building! Regular rodding / maintenance is essential.

Bloody cheek! Sorry, seemed (in?)appropriate. Did you plaster yourself? Looks good.

Welcome. Wish I'd found this place years ago. Leeching money on this old place faster than the rain's coming through the dormer and that's saying something!

Can't bring myself to use those slim ali ones. Especially under PIR.