Onoff

There was a main switch recall a short while back on MK: http://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/product-recalls/2013/04/mk-sentry-switches-and-consumer-units/ EDIT: Think that was more to do with the main switches catching fire.

Was this a BG consumer unit per chance?

Sorry, tape what joints, where the mr (green) plaster board butts up to the Aquapanel in the corner do you mean? Thinking about it the wet room corner will be 3 Aqua panels high and that will only be straight onto studs so I might as well put the membrane on and just rely on the Knauf Aquapanel screws.

Mike Harding: "Wish I could do that!" G'friend's Dad: "Give him a biscuit and he might let you!"

Let's not forget suppliers likely read these pages!

So I used Sika EBT where the ply was going onto the (blue) Geberit frame and Gorilla glue where the ply was going onto the timber studs. Worked out so I missed bolts and screws affixing the studwork to the walls. Plasterboard screws used ply to timber and self drill ply to Geberit frame: Seems to have gone on nice, solid and level: Got to put the Aquapanel on next. Now I've aimed, when I've done my studwork, to put a (green) VCL over them before the plasterboard. This for draught proofing. I was going to cover the ply above in VCL then screw the Aquapanel on. The alternative is ditch the VCL here, apply Sika EBT to the ply and screw the Aquapanel straight to the ply. Of course the Sika won't stick too well to the VCL. Any thoughts please? Cheers.

If it can dig it's way up through 2' of clay and flint then shift the pallet SWMBO insist I laid over the grave "in case the foxes dig her up", then escaping being boarded in behind a wall mount wc will be child's play. It can even have my lager. Let's not forget the whole reanimation issue!

So the time has come when I've run out of excuses why not to board this over! Well, at least the lower half as I'm not sure what's happening pocket wise above the wc until I ping the laser round. Just got to wait until the foam goes off and cut it all flush! I've a nice draught coming down from the loft now if i put my hand in through the flush plate!

Much hacking out of PIR for clearance then an A-15 Starrett extension, an A-1 adapter then an A-19 "Oops" with a deep 38mm hole saw on! All to get this 32mm pan take off pipe in: At least I missed the water pipe this time in the loft:

Can't remember anywhere in the (electrical) regs, where it says in big, bold type "Don't grab the red & black together". Some things are just "common sense". Says here can be stacked "several" blocks high without propping: https://www.durisoluk.com/icf-technical-advice/what-is-insulated-concrete-formwork/ But it should be clear across their site.

With gravel I can see all the detrius like leaves sitting on top and being fairly easy to keep tidy. With my proposed flint topping being a more "open" fill i.e. with gaps guessing that's more prone to filling with rubbish.

This wont be gravel it'd be assorted flints. Thinking whether it'll work, I mean it's hardly pea shingle! Did similar alongside the garage. Doesn't look too bad though SWMBO though the addition of pine cones would enhance things! This isn't used as a drain btw just to "hide" the ugly footings:

How do you "maintain" their level without adjacent dirt etc encroaching if nothing to stop it?

The irony of my hole saw saga isn't lost on me here. The 38mm DEEP Starrett when it eventually arrived wasn't big enough to clear the pipe elbow : So it was out with the FeckitTM And a bit of widening: All to do this:

So do you have to concrete the bottom of the trench?

It would be really no problem to dig say a 9" wide 1' deep trench. Line with fabric, fill with flints up to say 3" from the top then lay some more fabric and another 3" of flint. It'd be easy 'ish then for maintenance / sprucing up. AND no pipe to clog. Think I'll still put gravel boards in though.

Fire of that video and wind speed record for a start. If you decide to DIY the project you'll save that £1200 is one way of looking at it.

Home page of the Durisol site:

And gravel boards.....should I endeavour to treat them in any way for longevity? Black bitumen paint, Thompson's Water Seal etc?

I could even route them! More thinking Starrett holes. I have from 14mm dia up to I think 152mm dia.

(My great grandfather was in fact German! ) It's the ideal hole dia and spacing I'm after at the mo.

I need to build a French drain. Any pointers? This to take some rain water run off where the land slopes down to the house. It's going to be temporary (my temporary ) until I landscape. My thinking so far is a 9" wide trench (bucket width) with a 110mm brown soil pipe laid in it to falls. (I've a load of scrap, brown soil fittings with perished rubbers that'll do for joins). Pipe wrapped in landscape fabric. For the "fill" I'm thinking to use small 'ish local flints and believe me I've got them in spades! To give a "side" to the drain I was thinking maybe 300mm gravel boards? I've read that the pipe needs holes in it but only along the bottom. Are they in a line? What diameter holes & spacing? Cheers

That's more like it!

Finally uncovered the old footings and started breaking them up! A right pita as full of fence wire. Kango/cut/shift...repeat. Going out with the laser now it's dusk to plot the heights of drains etc relative to the DPC. Then I can start to think about getting this side of the house level for a path, mower access etc. Still a bit of a slab under the dirt bordered by the footings. The manhole by the Kango has to be lowered for a start! Edit: No.1 son helping survey the drains:

With the blue acoustic board around that?