Onoff

I wonder if you could weld plates either side, themselves with 110mm holes in connecting the flanges? Thus replacing the "strength" you've taken out of the web... I've considered doing exactly what you're proposing to give me a soil run down the centre of the house. This for upstairs wcs and showers in all the bedrooms. I've an RSJ "in the way" that runs under the centre of the dormer.

Lucky the missus is there then! Seriously, you must have something to achieve that finish.

Any use?

SWMBO is very anti "metal" tile trim. Wants white PVC so she can bleach it! Wouldn't let me have the bath taps I wanted either!

Thought I'd see what it would look like NOT putting a horizontal tile on the centre line of the bath pocket: Plotted tiles on another vertical line by the door way. Better at the top in terms on no tiny rip but at the bottom nom 265mm to the slab. Would work here and most areas by the time the floor gets tiled but maybe NOT in the wet room corner where I need 13 to 26mm lower than FFL to get my falls for the wall drain:

Read some good reviews ref the Everbuild over the Mapei kit mainly that it seems to do the same thing but cheaper. Not the cheapest for the 7.5m kit but better feedback. Think they have a 6 month shelf life is the only thing and you need to check that. 6 months.....pushing it!

Right or wrong (albeit a tad inebriated) I've just bought this tanking kit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EVERBUILD-AQUASEAL-TANKING-WET-SHOWER-BATH-ROOM-WATERPROOF-KIT-Different-Sizes-/141811059677?var=&hash=item2104990bdd:m:mnlkAt_PB3cL_8c6tggkpCw

There's a very similar technique described at Upnor Castle (Kent) whereby a "fat bloke" would leap off up high to get gunpowder barrels and stores up. Seems an early H&S audit put a stop to it. Opposite side of the river to Chatham Dockyard. Good to visit and a couple of very decent pubs there.

We could start a "Without A Clue" series, mine being bathrooms!

My mate has one of those "Silverline" type winches. Actually in his HOUSE mounted above the loft hatch.

Very far from an arbitrary line. Considered a long tome ago on CAD! The idea was to have a 250 high tile dead centre of the bath pocket: So far it seems to work out pretty much as expected. The oddity here is I have a ceiling height about 2470mm high so I'll have to have a "strip" up at the ceiling. With hindsight, lower ceiling! Was half thinking of a border tile either along the top or mid way up the wall: And the cut tile along the base means I have no issue tile height wise when it falls to the shower corner: EDIT: "Accuracy".....I've gone over the laser line with a fine black Sharpie for the datum line. Would I be better this line being in (a sharp) pencil or Biro? Do I go around marking horizontal tile lines on all the walls up/down from the datum as a guide? Cheers And where do I start tiling from?

I've used T&E in the past.

Lost me, the bit in red??? You mean the first LASER line?

What you want is a book called "Basic Combat Engineering Skills" Part one. Got everything in there from pullies, Tirfor winches/jacks, slinging, levelling, chain saws, crane signals to knots and hitches etc. I've one here but sentimental value. From when I was in Nam (Dagenham )Will ask around and see if I can get you one. Couldn't find it on eBay but found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Basic-Combat-Engineering-Skills-Part/dp/B000MXLVOE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502894013&sr=8-1&keywords=basic+combat+engineering+skills

Ta. Tbh I reckon the shower pockets will get wetter than this long, bath side pocket. As for the pocket above the wc, well if that gets wet someone's aim is really off! More questions in a while when I get this line all round where I can (had to break off for a pc related problem with the boy).

That's why you get paid the big bucks! Makes things easier though. So tiles on first then trims with the "flag pole" into the pocket as shown? Same with window reveals? Will "tanking" (it's a liquid right?) allow tiling straight onto it? Can I tank straight onto ply? (Appreciate if tiling direct it's better to silicon tiles onto ply). In those pockets should I be using a tanking "scrim" to reinforce the corners? Told you they'd come thick and fast!

A great philosopher once wrote; "Naught..", Sorry, wrong thread! Anyway, he said on the lines that "everything focuses on the bath". So this will mean the inset panel: It's 430mm between faces of mrpb. I marked the centreline, 215mm up: So in trying to plan this I figure a line projected around the room is the way to go. Laser mounted in the wet room corner: And nudged until I hit the marked line (just under): Pretty happy it's the same both sides, says something for my manual methods with a level up until now. I'll nudge until the laser is dead centre on the line before marking the wall: So I'm now going to project this line all round the room as a datum. Which brings me onto tiling! I acquired this bad boy, a picture framing guillotine. As sharp as a sharp thing and really heavy duty: Because of a nick in the blade I had to pack the work piece up a bit but it cuts tile trim nicely: I'm happy enough with this fit I think (actually looks worse than it is): But wtf do I start in attaching this trim? The trims are 10mm (actually 11mm o/a height). This for 8mm tiles. I know I need to use mitre bond. But how do you keep the runs of trim straight? Only thing I can think is to set it against a 10mm pack? Oh' and I'm thinking to tank this pocket before I stick any trims on? EDIT: Holy crap! Looks like this is a MORSO guillotine, the price of blades!!!

Slacker!

And so to the wet room corner! I had a tidy up, stared at it, opened another beer and started at it some more: 1) Not sure whether I'm going with a mitred corner...which dictates the position of the wall drain. Also need to consider in relation to tiling. The mitred corner tiling would need cutting down width wise as 400mm would be too wide. Do I board to the corner from both directions THEN do the mitred section? It'll be close to that UFH pipe in the corner. 2) As the stud walls are affixed only to the original walls and not the floor I'm worried about them separating at and wall / floor joint. I've drawing pinned the DPM up to the timber so as to see the gap underneath. Maybe some BFO screws / bolts in from the top and wired to the rebar? 3) If I push the red plastic upstands they "give" a little. Not sure of what "mix" here to lay to falls to then tile over. It's pretty thin in areas. Though I didn't use fibres in the main slab I can't see it'd hurt to do so here.

A bit here on the old forum: http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/3629-fall-of-sewage-pipe/

More of a "working beer" today, just a couple to take the edge off. I'm not overly fussy tba. Had a Whitstable Bay Pale Ale last night and there's some Old Crafty Hen chilling.

The Master will be along shortly to admonish you!

Being the impulsive type that I am, I just went for it, no VCL! What have I learnt? The studwork needs to be dead level for Aquapanel. It's nowhere near as forgiving as mrpb. Self drill screws which I was going to use to screw through to the Geberit frame just rip it to pieces so I gave up on that idea (I think it's the wing tip on the screw). Went mad with the Sika (mad enough?). The right hand side of the Aquapanel is for some reason 3mm low.

Sounds good. If fixing to the wall I think you would want any wall fixings, through the Cedral, to be in line with the glass fixing cleats? Could probably figure a U shaped cleat and get in there with a ratchet spanner. On plan something like this:

Happy to spend someone else's money help! I thought it might be local 'ish. Their previous work does look good I think. If you were looking to limit stresses from the handrail affecting the deck you could consider still having raised pads but with a subtle weathering cowl in st/st on the base of the standard.