Onoff

Being the impulsive type that I am, I just went for it, no VCL! What have I learnt? The studwork needs to be dead level for Aquapanel. It's nowhere near as forgiving as mrpb. Self drill screws which I was going to use to screw through to the Geberit frame just rip it to pieces so I gave up on that idea (I think it's the wing tip on the screw). Went mad with the Sika (mad enough?). The right hand side of the Aquapanel is for some reason 3mm low.

Sounds good. If fixing to the wall I think you would want any wall fixings, through the Cedral, to be in line with the glass fixing cleats? Could probably figure a U shaped cleat and get in there with a ratchet spanner. On plan something like this:

Happy to spend someone else's money help! I thought it might be local 'ish. Their previous work does look good I think. If you were looking to limit stresses from the handrail affecting the deck you could consider still having raised pads but with a subtle weathering cowl in st/st on the base of the standard.

@Nickfromwales. sorry to hassle you "direct" so to speak but what do you reckon as to whether I should put my vcl between my ply and the Aquaboard from a page back or so? I reckon there's enough "layers" there ref draughts. Half a worry as the ply isn't marine grade but then all floor to wall abutments will be tanked before tiling. WC to wall will be suitably proofed against "splashing". A mind to just go mad with the Sika on the ply and screw the thing on.

You can tell the missus is out, I had to use a bag of rice for the "something heavy"! So 3mm spacers, a couple of tiles weighted down flat 'ish and some decorating filler: Smoothed off with a wet finger: So 3 or 4mm on the spacers? Doesn't look too bad I don't think.

I've had some peripheral experience with escape stair handrails on site done in stainless tube. They tend to make it in situ and dress / buff the welds on site.

Any good? Place near Plymouth: http://100percentstainless.co.uk/portfolio/fixed-faced-balustrade/#sidewidgetarea On the assumption you're going to have to buy from somewhere they might advise on the design if you bought the bits off them. I'm leaning towards 4 point fixing to the wall, raised fibreglass pads around the perimeter (with hindsight eh? ) and keeping it all "inboard" rather than face fix just for aesthetics. What's the section at the balcony perimeter? EDIT: Page 2 of the gallery on that link shows some cranked brackets. In a maritime environment Gr316 / A4 stainless is a must. Also you want to make sure they pickle the TIG welds or they can rust. If DIY'ing you might find a welder on the mig welding forum that'd be up for it. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ I specifically searched "stainless handrail" under Projects/Architectural. Love the water twist detail: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/search/4693608/?q=Stainless+handrail&o=date

CT1?

So is there a structural slab under there? Those wall blocks don't look too thick for an expanding anchor. How thick are they? Through stud with a big plate washer on the back? Cold bridging? Don't get me wrong I'd "come up with something" if it were mine but SE job I reckon.

I've always struggled with structural calcs tbh but is it something on the lines like this? Do you add on the loads for the infill panels? Gut feel that a top and bottom member would make everything stiffer, so 4 fixing points back thru the cladding.

Got any pictures of the balcony / parapet detail and how wide is the frontage? Looks 7-8m wide?

Did something similar years back but it was down into a roof slab. Consisted of a resin anchored stud into the slab, 50mm OD st/st washer as below: Then a short length of thick wall st/st tubing and another washer as above. This was to avoid compressing the roof fixings. Got the full detail somewhere.

Is there any way you could affix to the "wood" clad wall at 1st floor level? Then you could have the standard feet on rubber pads. Years back I made a galv frame up for a small roof with no handrail and "weighted it" down with council slabs. Got the sketch somewhere still. All rule of thumb mind!

Why not, when in LIDL, try one out on some of their shelving and display units?

I bought a 3/8" drive GATORGrip years ago. Consigned to the bottom of the tool box tbh. Never use it.

Ta. I shall have to get some 3mm tile spacers some time. For testing purposes on these two tiles I've some 3mm thick nylon washers that'll do.

Is this on the ceiling? I've a similar issue in the bathroom (where else? ). Think there was a thread on here about similar a while back. Bit here about it: I like the idea of a thinner batten at the joints to "bend" the ends in a bit.

So tile spacers go at the back edge of the tile? If I use a 3mm spacer and the tiles taper then the finished grout line will be wider than 3mm?

It's at times like this when two wives would be handy...

How about I temporarily butt two together and run a line of decorators caulk up the join to see?

Tile is nom 250 wide. Middle 6 mosaics are 26x26 all day long. I reckon the grout is without doubt, 5mm. Outer edge mosaics are nom 28mm (27.5?) x 26. So we have: 6 x 26 = 156 7 x 5 = 35 2 x 28 = 56 ------------------ 247 The tiles have a slight taper on all sides.

@Nickfromwales as well as glass do you have your mirrors that size made up specially?

Just checked. The "mosaic", tiles, again 400x250, have 5mm pseudo grout lines.

Never done wall tiles myself. I've carefully chased a few out in kitchens for wiring etc (and replaced) but never tiled a wall from scratch. Did one small area of Wickes floor tiles in the early 90s but left the grouting to the missus. When they eventually do come the tiling questions will be thick 'n fast!

Love my Fluke volt stick. Although a lad at work did get a belt the other day relying on one.