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Onoff

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Everything posted by Onoff

  1. Interesting piece in yesterday's paper how big name companies etc (Ford was one mentioned) pay sci-fi novel writers, some well known Nebula winners included, to come up with stories envisaging how products in the company's etc sphere might develop. They then discuss this with their own teams. Even the Army were presented with a sci-fi scenario dreamt up whereby China had genetically engineered their soldiers to emit "fear" pheromones. Pretty sure there were some energy companies named too.
  2. I've either got re-bar bits from Hilti in the past or if desperate used a Starrett for the bar when the masonry bit hits steel. Best option is to design so you don't need to drill where the re-bar is!
  3. Or just wing it like some on here...
  4. Got my studio quality accoustic tile thingy (seconds, just a bit of glue on the back & possible whiff of weed):
  5. Minimum cost: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/80mm-SDS-TUNGSTEN-BRICK-CORE-DRILL-HOLE-CUTTER-PILOT-BIT-SDS-SHANK-ARBOR-/263083129777 They DO work but you have to drill to it's depth then break/bolster that bit off. And sometimes make an extension bar: I thought I'd never get through those footings when I brought the new water main in but I did!
  6. Piece in the Times about Google's parent company using salt and antifreeze to provide energy storage.
  7. Let's think out of the box here..... An air curtain would be very minimalist. Or a force field...... Or that Chinese Air Umbrella...
  8. I trust you've saved and varnished some of those cores for use as decorative paperweights / doorstops / keepsakes?
  9. Don't forget that across agricultural land, i.e. land that's likely to be disturbed you'll need to trench deeper than normal for services. What's the case with your electrical supply, do you have to run that too?
  10. Is this Scottish Water document any use? wfsv3may2015.pdf
  11. "Start at the bottom and work up..." Top tip there, never have guessed!
  12. Done loads of posts, mainly concrete. Drop the post in the hole & a couple of shovels of hardcore smacked down with a length of timber holds it roughly in place. Hardcore good around timber posts as it helps with drainage. Use a post level to gauge it roughly for plumb: http://www.screwfix.com/p/post-level/14623 I always then faff with 6' spirit level. Push it over a bit, tamp the concrete etc. If slightly off, brace at an angle with a bit of timber wedged in the dirt and up against the post even if you have to put a quick clamp on the post.
  13. I've allocated a 1400x1400 wet room corner. Plan is (was?) to have the shower riser/spray in the corner on a mitred section of wall. I'm leaving "structure" in the walls to fit glass wings if over spray becomes an issue.
  14. Have this anemometer off of me. You can set an alarm limit, red line sort of thing and sit there cr@pping yourself watching the screen! You can get a relay / alarm module too for an external sounder.
  15. I've a spare (used but good) one of these you're welcome to: http://www.inspeed.com/anemometers/vortex_wind_sensor.asp It will connect straight to an RS232 port on a pc with the addition of a resistor and 9-pin connector. If you don't have the right port you'd need a RS232 to USB converter. This is the kit with all the bits but easy to replicate once you've the anemometer. Screen shots on the link of WindWare software: http://www.inspeed.com/wind_data_logging/windware_wind_speed_data_kit.asp
  16. These look good, to adapt other makes of hole saw for use with the Bosch Progressor arbour. Handy if you've say a 114mm you use for soil etc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/181804969464
  17. I used a McAlpine trap but it was tight to be able to undo the bottle so I cut the pear drop shape so you can get your hand / knuckles in. My trap is 40mm the short distance through the flexi pipe then goes to 50mm all the way out. So glad I sunk the bath so the bath is level with the floor as you step in and out. Still got 150mm PIR + 25mm EPS under the bath, just replaced 100mm of concrete with the sunken ply box.
  18. The seller in the OP is one of those "we don't read this message mailbox" when you try and contact them from what I can see. All "please go through the eBay channels" etc.
  19. Me being a wuss I think! Tried the other frame in the garden, ratchet strapped to a brick pillar and it all worked a treat. Took the float from the installed, suspect one and fitted to the second frame, That worked fine too. SWMBO impressed with the quietness of it all, rapidity of refilling etc. Don't think she'll stomach crapping against a brick pillar in the garden for too long though Little vid:
  20. For guidance on the practical application of the regs anyone interested would do well to buy themselves the OSG.
  21. Amazing they don't include "laid loose across 100mm of old stuff with another 170mm bunged on top from when the sheds had it on offer". Seriously, where's within insulation?
  22. I do these things in the hope that the next man "in" there will think what anal fu**wit did this, not only did he hoover but he's painted and fitted a light too!
  23. @Nickfromwales.....that went well.....NOT! OK, the ad hoc plastic bag wasn't ever going to cope with the deluge and I don't think I had the ducting off cut pushed far enough around the soil bend but the fill wouldn't shut off. Do these internals look alright to you? I am btw running it straight off of the un-PRedV'd outside tap. It kept filling the the "over spill" went down the flush pipe. No signs of it stopping. Or did I panic and it would have stopped? Going to take the spare Geberit frame out into the garden and have a play with it there where I can make a mess!
  24. Erm...I meant the twin and earth cable...clipped direct, in conduit etc
  25. I still have bits of the original lighting here in 2.5mm with 30A jbs! Still, better they used it there than for the hob!
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