Onoff

But only 10 miles? I know a couple of Gurkhas and where they come from, as kids in their villages growing up, distance was measured in time as there's so many hills! Miles/kilometres were meaningless.

Any chance of a link? Seriously though, welcome aboard. Lots of self builders up "there". (This is from someone who has no concept of how big Scotland is).

Mr Sheen? Works wonders on saw blades, hinges etc.

Yep, B&S engine. Starts like a dream either off a separate jump start pack or the pull cord. Got the battery up to 12V from nothing with 4 Batt Aid tablets in each. Have to see if it holds it's charge. Worst case I rig a solar panel to charge the battery. Alternator 1 feeds in on the red via pin 6, thru the fuse and out on pin 7 via the pink, fuse blown and pin 7 broken as in the photo above. Not quite my schematic but close enough:

Bored with that...

Got given a Westwood T1200 in need of repair a while back. Sorted the grass collection flail system ages ago with some 1" (not 25mm) box section I had from a clothes display rack I scored somewhere. Had my son fit the starter motor gear set the other day. So that's the electric start back running once we sort the charging circuit so his next project is to sort the pcb: One duff fuse before the diode and a broken pin after seems the issue. £20 of components from CPC on their way He'll take the board back to bare bones, replace the fuse holders and fuses, LEDs with new value resistors to suit etc, then make good all the joints.

Ambient temperature, evaporation rates from shaded / unshaded containers etc

Where's the FUN in that? Plus we want photos of his clever solution!

I'm hoping with the wall drain the "trap" won't dry out too quick. It's a little way from the UFH pipe It'll be used every day so that should help. IF it fits (the wall drain) then I might put a strip of insulation in front. There was talk I remember of putting a second trap in somewhere. As for UFH in the wall pretty sure I voiced that idea over on eBuild. Knowing what I do now (about everything) I probably would have done it. Could get interesting with pockets. I've also to consider I'm limited for depth in terms of wall insulation in the wet room corner so think I'd prefer insulation and retain the heat from the floor in that corner rather than lose through the wall.

I won't need tiles at this rate, my walls will be covered with @Nickfromwales gems of wisdom on A4!

Accumulative error..... If I ping a laser line around the room pre tiling then that seems pretty "thick", I just measured mine at 2mm thick. What's the norm here then, mark a horizontal line dead centre of the laser line i.e. 1mm in from each side of the projected line and tile off of that, keep the laser on and tile to that or nail a thin batten all round so the first full tile from the floor sits on it? Can't help thinking a sharp pencil line will be better than the Sharpie as said before? Ta.

Did "we" agree to slope (5deg?) the bottom of pocket shelves to assist with water run off?

F.....for Fosters Water goes A, B, C, J, L then F. The rest never see a drop...I think.

Ordered that Aquaseal wet room kit at 21.00hrs on Weds night and it arrived today just after 1pm. Was expecting it Monday 21st. The best bit.....manufactured April 2017.....24 MONTH SHELF LIFE!!!

Thanks all. Its the "me" and "rapid" anything, adhesive or otherwise I cant get my head around! Do they quote faffing time on the bags?

An idea: SWMBO wants the whole wall above where the bath pocket is, painted: So in the above photo the face of the ply around the pocket will be tiled. There's then a strip of mrpb that will be a continuous narrow shelf. This she wants mosaic tiled and also a little matching tiled upstand - above that she wants painted. This is roughly in line with a tile line shown above on the wall at the head of the bath. Thinking to continue this mosaic tiled upstand "band" around all the walls. That way I could lose the narrow rip up by the ceiling?

Am I going about this somewhere near right? Marking tile spacing with 3mm grout line spacing (red). With 400x250 tiles laid horizontal I've ROUGHLY marked where they'll go: One end of the bath wall: The other end: Full tile widths with "decent" sized bits at the end. At an internal corner should the meeting tiles ideally be the same width? Should I really time the floor first? To do so I'd need to sort the wet room corner and wall drain. Can't see here how I would tile first then put the trim on because of the back to back flags / double quadrant detail Someone point me at a decent enough tile adhesive please. Cheers

All I know is @JSHarris recommended me to Soudal ages ago and specifically the low expansion one for sticking EPS. It works put simply. A zig zag of foam, push the board against whatever you want it to stick to and hold in place with blocks, a wedge or even a sand bag.

I wonder if Soudal Low Expansion foam would work? I used it to stick all my EPS to concrete, brick, other EPS, wood etc.

In Costco earlier. Don't know if these are of any interest: I was debating this just for an easy life (as opposed to something coming out of the ceiling and a riser): Big mirror, demister etc: Kitchen hot water tap thingy:

Yeah it's good here, welcome aboard. They even accommodate those of us with special building needs!

The sort of help you DON'T need! How you laughed about it later I bet! Wishing I hadn't drawn on the walls now in permanent marker here planning these tiles!

Tbh I'm likely to want to be "standing" on the bath area so will knock up something heavy duty...that takes 3 people to lift! Glad though I can lift the bath up a bit thanks to the flexible pipes and waste. Will make it much easier to pack under the feet & tile under the bath lip

Gonna have to make a protective cover for the bath!

A bit here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/78526/is-a-toilet-drain-permitted-to-run-through-i-joists Are we getting into castellated beam territory here? A clever person will be along shortly!