Onoff

Dangerous, yes as my 9 fingered BiL and mangled, intact 'ish, still sort of looks like a hand FiL would attest to.

Just what I was about to say. Like this:

Sorry, just read wall not upright. I was sipping Green King IPA at the the time...

Just amazed you've not got Roger squatting on it! So why's it like that then? You're going to need some of that push in foam stuff before you silicon that. I can send you a length if you want?

I'll raise you "Come on a journey with me and we'll go down all the side roads"

But it's "waterproof concrete" surely, how can moisture get thru? That SBR laden Design Mix 4 is a bit out of the ordinary.....isn't it?

He'll be propping up the bar...

Cheers. I've got their 896 battery coming only as the terminals are the other way around. I enquired with a picture of the existing battery and Rohan replied. He's pretty "keen" tbh, got a follow up / chase email too off of him, can they do anything else etc. All turning over but not firing so I've left a cut out switch off / mechanically disconnected somewhere! Might have been when I was removing the rat's nest!

Yep, mild steel. I'd though about this and can''t see how it's really any different from the A142 mesh in there. OK that's completely under the concrete and thus encapsulated. Thinking the saving grace is that'll it all be tanked over. I've got to make up the edges level by 36mm one edge and 46mm the other before the falls start. Was going to drill into the slab edge and resin in some M6 studs to support those lengths. I could cast it in sections but how do I ensure the concrete doesn't stick to the steel? Surely any release agent would impeded the next lot of concrete sticking to the first? And surely a one hit. homogeneous pour is better? Pretty sure concrete over steel has an initial protective effect as the medium is alkaline. It's only years later once CO2 seeps in that the medium becomes acidic. This is what befell the art deco places and blocks of flats. Still a no-no you think? EDIT: I'm getting a price out of interest for 4 bits of st/st angle folded from sheet to 40x40x1

There's a worse accident of this nature shown on working at height courses now where shall we say you see SEPARATE parts! Remember lads "form a pouch" for your valuables!

We're you looking at the old white pipe or far black one that sticks out the wall low down?

Seems nothing has changed yet on the Durisol site. Still saying "without propping".

Yep, for the fall lines. Tbh I'll drill the hell out of them so they'll look almost castellated. The angle is nom 40x40x1 so was thinking 20/25mm holes. The mix should "bond" through these holes so hopefully no cracks. Thickness goes from nom 100mm on the two existing edges down to the drain. Not sure on the thickness there without some more measuring but 60-70mm maybe? Floor build up curves up a little there. Out of that thickness comes the hollow "pots" formed by the Polypipe trays. You've got me half worried about the steel acting as crack inducers!

Glad it's all blown over now and that we could be here propping you up...

Toying with a "resinous" mix for this cast in situ wet room corner I was toying with a 3:2:1 sand/10mm pea shingle/cement mix with added fibres and SBR. I've now found this Word document on the web. Mix Design No4 looks a possible, maybe with added fibres? Whatever needs to be strong and tough to cope with walking on long term whilst I finish the walls, shower plumbing etc. "P.R. EPOXY - SBR POLYMER SYSTEM TECHNICAL DATA SHEET USES. P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System is used for screeds, floor repairs, waterproof renders, waterproof fine concretes and bonding. DESCRIPTION P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System has been formulated to enhance the physical and chemical properties of cement mortars and concretes. It is compatible with most forms of cement, sands and aggregates. Together with the cement, it forms a powerful adhesive to bond the aggregates together, producing a tougher, waterproof and more impact and abrasion resistant floor, repair mix, render or bonding primer. PROPERTIES The properties of the cured mix will vary depending on the type of cement, sand and aggregates used. COMPRESSION AGE. N/mm² 1 day 14 – 18 28 days 40 – 50 (Strength is dependent on mix design) PREPARATION Surfaces to which P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System mixes are to be applied must be clean, strong and free from oil, grease and with a rough profile. Best preparation is with a scabbler or power washer. If metal surfaces area to be covered they must be rust free and wire brushed or grit blasted. Cement based substrates must be damped with clean water and excess water removed. A primer coat of 1:1 P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System/cement is brush applied to the prepared surface. Refer to relevant standards and codes of practice. MIXING & APPLICATION Hand mix or use a forced action mixer. The components of the selected mix are measured by weight or volume and dry mixed. The P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System and water is added to give the desired consistency. In an efficient mechanical mixer, mixing should continue for 2-3 minutes. When hand mixing, mix the cement, aggregate and sand dry then add sufficient of the P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System/water until a homogeneous consistency is achieved. The mixed mortar is applied to the prepared and primed surface whilst the primer is still wet/tacky, using conventional screeding, rendering and concreting techniques. Apply as required on to wet or tacky primer, compact well and finish. If the primer dries, crosshatch scratch and reapply. If necessary apply mortar in multiple layers to achieve total thickness, priming between layers with P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System :cement primer. STORAGE P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System must be stored unopened in dry warehouse conditions between +5°C and 25°C and out of direct heat and sunlight. In these conditions P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System should have a shelf life of approximately 12 months. PACKAGING P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System is available in 5, 25 and 240.0litre containers. HEALTH & SAFETY There are no emissions of noxious or offensive fumes, P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System is alkaline when mixed with cement and sand; do not allow prolonged contact with skin. Health & Safety information is available. OTHER INFORMATION Mix Design’s 1. Floor Screeding and Screed Repair (min. 6mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 150kg medium sand 2.5 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ 2. Heavy duty floor toppings (min. 12mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 75kg medium sand 1.25 pbv 75kg 6-3mm grano chips 1.25 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.11m³ 3. Waterproof Renders (min.6mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 125kg medium sand 2 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv cement 100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv 100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv 5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.14m³ 5. Bonding Screeds, Plaster, New Concrete to Old by weight by volume 1kg cement 1 pbv cement 1 litre SBR 1 pbv SBR Yield approx 3-4m² per litre 6. Floating Screeds (min. 38mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 150kg medium sand 2.5 pbv 4.5litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13.5 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ • * = add to working consistency. • All sands must be medium grade sharp. • Aggregates must be clean, well graded and not “to dust”. All P.R. Epoxy Systems products’ are manufactured to a high standard of quality. Whilst we aim to ensure that any advice, information or recommendations given are reliable and correct, the Company cannot accept any liability directly or indirectly arising from the use of its products, as we have no direct or continuous control over where or how its products are applied. No undertaking can be given against infringement of any patented processes."

Seem to be a few about:

Something like this. Steel has some surface rust but not too bad. Thinking to just wire brush / flap disc it and chuck it in the concrete without any paint or rust treatment etc. After all the mesh is a tad rusty. The whole area will be tanked anyway. One slight worry is concrete "slump" that might leave the angle iron edges slightly proud:

Starting the thin angle iron former: I'll use two strips down the edges of the slab to make up the level (edges) before the falls. The angles will get a load of holes Starrett drilled in them to better fix into the "concrete" when laid. Can't decide whether to pop rivet, self tap or MIG. Not so sure about welding with the bath in there though!

I wonder if, looking from along the scaffold you could gauge what way the stud is bent if that's the case. Then, if there's enough sticking out, slip over a heavy gauge "tube" and lever in the opposite direction to put it under pressure to straighten out a bit. Maybe this with a combination of knocking from the other side. Try scaffold tube but thinking something smaller diameter but still a thick wall...trolley jack handle?

For what it's worth I don't reckon there's a cats chance in hell of wet concrete bending those to the extent you cant get them out. I'd have wrapped them in DPM AS WELL AS "greasing" them. You'd have just been pulling through a well lubed tube and not had the threads to catch on anything. Can you, in some cases draw them out so far as to get say an M10 stud in from the other side to use to drift the M12 out and not get stuck itself?

TRY.....add two nuts to the end of the stud and lock them together with spanners. Crank out with a bfo adjustable for leverage. Or a suitable socket on these and try whizzing out with the drill: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p31432?table=no

Pretty confident I can tweak it up with a crow bar and lump of timber and slip packs in, it's just what to use! Favouring the plastic trouser shims each, a strip of something "hard" across the front then go nuts with the low expansion foam from inside.

The weight is I guess distributed on the frame anchors at the sides. (M10 but I might redo at M12). Before the sill packs were removed the side gaps were sprayed with water and low expansion foam filled. Left to go off that really provides some "stiction"! Another half thought was foam between DPC and underside of sill or even EPS with maybe a solid say cloaking board, Asbestolux strip across the front. As of last night (Tues) I noted it's a little harder to lift the handle inside to bring the "claw" bolt into play. Locking with the key is still easy though not as effortless as it was Sun/Mon.

Gary's email to me today: "We hit 45c over the weekend, and today a big drop to 33 and a good bit of smoky tasting air from fires far north".

I've a nom 25mm gap under the cill and above the DPM to fill. What should I use? Expanding foam Mortar Celcon block slices Brick slices Timber Combination of the above ? Cheers