Onoff

IP55 towel rail's are available btw. As are ones where the "flex" is hidden in the fixing bracket.

Run some Pex-Al-Pex over the back face, PIR over that. Some flexible tap tails and USE that heat!

Expecting to be going the adapter route I tried chamfering the inside of the Geberit pipe with a Stanley then some 80 grit paper. Looks worse in the photo but this won't be too rough will it? Holding off on this until I figure the elbow detail.

I'm thinking CT1! I wonder if just really roughing up the meltable and non meltable surfaces will work with the solvent / gap filling solvent?

Bugger! This Geberit pipe material appears not to be solvent weld compatible! On the left a sliver of pipe, nicely melted into the solvent, on the right a sliver of the Geberit pipe, solvent hasn't touched it. I really didn't want a hidden compression fitting in the wall / floor aside from it'll be bigger

So no half tiles were cut either up the edges? No wonder they were quick!

Thank you as always. Less fall is better as it'll also give me a bit thicker slab. The Geberit waste then is 50mm OD. I remember the grief @ProDave had with fitting compatibility a while back, ordering one size and it turns out to be another! So...the bath solvent waste pipe is 56mm OD /51.5 - 52mm ID - fits into the elbow in the picture. It'd be good if the pipes on the wall outside were the same diameter. I was thinking then to slip a sliver of the correct, bigger pipe into the elbow then slip it onto the Geberit 50mm waste. Would be 0.75 to 1mm bigger on the radius. Then use that gap filling solvent cement you said to get a while back: It's actually tighter than you would think: I've even saved some sawing waste (thanks @JSHarris) from cutting the pipe to help bulk out and gaps and hopefully melt into the mix. One little worry is that if I do this the Geberit pipe will form a little lip that's usually flush with the shoulder of the elbow, thinking hair trap. Not a problem for me and the lad with No.2 clippers all over but thinking of Cousin It and her smaller clone here! If I do go for it, tight 90 or sweeping? Silly idea overall? Sort of getting there anyway, just need to decide on this adapter and I'll get drilling, not exactly @Construction Channel standards of videoing:

@Nickfromwales, sorry to hassle you on a Saturday. What do you reckon on concrete fall %age wise over about 1.3m for this wet room corner? The Geberit instructions say 1 to 2%. Equates to say 1/2" to 1" max. Thinking the lower as it might be less noticeable when you walk around the corner of the bath. Reckon I'm going to have only 20mm of EPS behind the wall drain. Should help stop the trap drying out at least!

I haven't a clue what size I need?

Don't care, won't be as good as mine!

Tell me. Maybe we could share one if we could get some cheap pipe?

It's taken so long the missus has said Homebase are taking the bath display down from when we bought it!

Worth taking the resistance of the coils when you know it's working for next time!

Lidls will likely be doing cheap TARPS again soon!

Loving that sprinkler system. Talk about sleep easy at night! How's it fed? Surely not off mains pressure alone? Do you have a sprinkler tank and pump that kicks in in the event of a pressure drop i.e if the sprinklers go off?

As already posted elsewhere more removing of perimeter insulation etc to get the wall drain in. Then a coat of Wickes liquid DPM. You're supposed to give it two but there already was two coats there but I'd scraped the low exp. foam off and damaged it a bit: Scored some lengths of 100x1x1500 powder coated (I think) steel. This is what I'll make my shower tray former out of. Just a case of transferring dimensions from CAD to the steel and using a bevel gauge here and there:

Check out Clip 3, I can see his Mum on one: http://buggies.builtforfun.co.uk/Carrier/index.html

Please stop, my imagination is running wild and scared! Just realised Kingfisher coming up tastes like cider going down.....

It doesn't take a lot to cut down on heat loss when you get into it does it? As a reminder to us in the cheap "refurbishment" seats as to the benefits of air tightness...it KEEPS on amazing ME the "lossiness" of traditional construction. I just dug out the reasonably well done floor to wall edge in the bathroom to fit the wall drain. Bear in mind I've been living with this corner for a good while now, albeit unfinished so have obviously got used to the room being warm 'ish. This corner has no insulation on except a bit of foam/EPS along the bottom near the floor (which is done well). Cutting into this DPM and peeling back, Christ almighty the DRAUGHT you can feel. No "gaps" that you can see per se so must be thru the joints, DPC etc. Even adding a coat of liquid DPM has noticeably cut the chill down:

Got any Flexacryl, Acrypol etc? Just go over the foam and steel with that.

Even cheaper:

Didn't know you were Russian:

Jesus I can feel my curry coming back up!

As I'm still waiting for my lawnmower belt... If anyone doubts the efficiency of Soudal low expansion foam to stick EPS to EPS or EPS to liquid DPM trust me it sticks. Needed to push the Geberit element back another nom. 20mm so I've had to hack into the EPS upstand on the inner leaf of the cavity wall. Easier just to remove it all and redo: This is the floor DPM slit and laid over the UFH pipes, (hoover as you go): Means the DPM will have to sit staggered something like this. Not sure whether to leave it or faff making good with folds of extra DPM and DPM tape? Reckon I'll only get nom 25mm of EPS between the back of the Geberit element and inner leaf of the cavity wall: Pointing at the DPC: Right then, off out for a beer and a curry! (Where's the BEER icon?)

You want to be bloody careful trying the wheelbarrow with your dodgy hips!