Onoff

Amazingly I managed to get 99% of the superglue off that had bonded on the original trim. This was caked in it. I used a couple of brand new Stanley blades almost as an old school wood scraper. Drawn gently up the length of the frame it takes off the high glue "ridge". Finished off with a rubber made from a block of scrap PIR (slightly abrasive) dipped in No Nonsense UPVC cleaner. It's so tidy I will only need trim to cover the cut bricks.

I reckon it's crud in mine. I really should isolate and clean it out. I was thinking the other day I need a stable pressure if I go for a UVC/TS later. (Another ship that's sailed! )

This one, same one: http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/pa_1194760.pdf EDIT: I REALLY didn't follow those instructions!

Problems, yes, it doesn't seem to be working properly as in it's bending the needle and twiddling the green knob doesn't seem to have any effect. Just assumed it needs a clean out which I've never done..... I might need a scan of your instructions!

Nylon knickers work well if grasped firmly in your hand! Rub up an down the pvc conduit like a mad thing to generate heat then it bends nicely with the spring.

2nd pic, behind the vertical scaffold pole it looks like the mortar joint stops short...

Had a visit from my unfortunate mate at the weekend. When I say unfortunate perhaps gullible is a bettter term. If you knock on his door or ring him up he'll buy "it". Wills, funeral plans, pc support contract, double glazing (already had it!). Just sound clever and he'll write you a cheque and never get a second or third quote. He's bought a hot tub off you? Get him to pay cash and tell him he has to supply and run the armoured! Etc, etc. Probably easier just to ring him and say you're the bank running a security check and could you have his PIN, 3 digit code etc (twice that's happened). I try and protect him and steer him right but he's so bloddy nice he says yes THEN phones me to say what he's done. An early adopter of PV he's since been sold "batteries" by an affiliated company (still waiting to get photos of them, apparently sat on carpet tiles in the loft). The latest is he "has a bloke coming round...who rang up...they fit a box...the Government wants everyone to have one by 2020...get in early to beat the rush"...". More snake oil!

"The" go to trunking since time began, you might hear "Run it in a bit of MT2....." etc: http://www.marshall-tufflex.com/shop/section.php?xSec=33 Then "fancy" stuff beloved by those with wall mounted tellies: http://www.d-line-it.co.uk (You'll get both at Screwfix btw). Use whatever fits and blob on with some CT1, Sika etc to save drilling the pb.

Could mean ordinary MT or even D Line if they said self adhesive.....

Sorted in the end. Had to drill through the galvanised internal frame to get fixings in! Needs some trim, a bit of pb up the rhs etc.

Did they mean this sort of "cover"? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=cable+gaurd&Submit=Search

What did you use to pack? I've got these plastic shims or 50x50x3 galv washers: These are the hinges. Seems you have to unscrew the pin, take the hinge (door?) off and screw / unscrew the middle bit. Might need to do that as it's a bit close here: Decided against lowering the door. Going to need some making good!

When you say thermostat I'm guessing you mean the immersion heater elelement length? They do vary in length as I said previously. Can you post a picture? Wasn't the one I thought it might be 470mm long? (So longer than the new one you've got and the same as the old one).

Ta. Should I run a strip of DPC all around the frame? I mean it's a plastic frame so why? And under the cill. It seems pointless to try and sit it on a bed if mortar now when I've to faff about with packing and levering. Was thinking do this afterwards with the foam gun or mortar gun. And lastly low expansion foam or "normal"? Cheers

And you didn't grab the camera for our benefit?

A while back I was given by my mate John the chippy, his old UPVC front door. More a case of srounged as when he said he was having new windows I said "Can I have your old door?". So he got the fitters to carefully take the old one out. Slight complication as it originally had a full size glazed panel to the lock side. Once the door was out John ran a fine tipped circular up it and separated the door from the side panel. Yesterday morning I thought on a bit of a whim I'd fit it. I've done two windows previously so it'd be a doddle, wouldn't it? (The plan was to get my lad to help for it but he was feeling rough from a pre uni jab. I started thinking he'd appear, eager to help...). First order of the day was to widen the gap. 9" grinder and diamond disc. Gap was circa 33" and frame circa 35". OMG the dust! Managed to do this with the old door still in. (Madam had gone to Bluewater which was handy ). Went in as far as I could then had to fettle here and there with the comb chisel and use the block saw on the hinge side the full height. Jesus it's HEAVY to move on your own! Had to rope in the grown up nephew who'd only popped round to "borrow some packs". A fair exchange as he ended up popping back and forth and finally left at 10pm. (There were a couple of beers involved). Cut the cill, laid it in on a strip of DPC and ran a bead of mastic along the upstand at the back. Got the frame in (with glazed door fitted), dead plumb and level in all planes. Wedged it and applied some foam. All looked really good..... The door was 10mm lower lock side, wouldn't lock or even OPEN on occasion. Opening the door and the frame moved dislodging the packs tearing the foam bond and generally going to pot. Then the door wouldn't open fully as it hit the really uneven quarry tiles! Much levering with the crow bar and swearing! Had to saw through the previously applied foam. In desperation phoned John. Difficult him not being able to see it. Messed around with packs under the cill. Culminated in levering the hinge side under the cill and it all "came right". I'm sure the frame has gone from being a square to a parrallelogram to make it all work but its very, very subtle. Is that how it normally works out? Was able to eventually close and lock the door. Whacked some foam in and went to bed! This morning: It actually opens and shuts pretty well. To lock I need to put my foot against the bottom of the door. Some lubrication should help there. But...it's sitting a bit high tbh. Could drop it a bit I reckon. As the door opens it measures from 25 to 50mm to the uneven quarry tiles. Is there a recommended gap here? Reckon this could all drop down: For the gap at the top I have some clip together 20mm extender (Wickes) incompatible with the original frame but nothing some silicon and screws won't sort. Whatever extrusions around the frame that were originally there have long since been planed or broken off. Reckon it'll be the saw through the foam again this morning and door OUT! No frame fixings in as yet btw. Any tips?

Been doing that trick for years. Usually when drilling through control cabinets and I don't want to hit wires or a component behind. Rarely do it as I can usually slip a board or bit of tin in there. If a lot to do slip a small bearing between chuck and pipe. I usually hold the "pipe" with a pair of mole grips so my hands not too close to the "action". Pipe will of course fill up with swarf so frequently empty it.

Safe zones, what safe zones? He had an electrical contractor do that wiring. Love the nail plates on the stud. Different strokes etc.

Now for something different from across the pond this Friday night! Thought the collective might like to see how they do things there. At it's simplest my mate lives in Sunol CA, His shed burnt down (leccy fault) and he's built a new one. The twist is this very shed was where a certain Mr Clint Eastwood spent a lot of time as a youngster (as in slept in there). Gary's place was owned by Clint's nan and he had to stay with her during some tough times at home . And yes, he's been back to visit! Gary writes: "And sure, the shed pics are up for grabs - I expect there will be some minor differences at least. We did standard framing as code for a house, 16" centers for the wall studs. We expect if an earthquake did rattle them off their pier bases, they could be lifted again and reset. (The one built as a workshop has almost double the number of piers, would take an industrial pounding.)"

Sorry I meant a "lifter" / carrier for carrying full boards around on your own. The is the one I have: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-panel-board-carrier-950130

I say tile as it might keep the space under the panels cooler and thus the panels more efficient.

Off topic but do you have a plasterboard lifter to carry your boards?

...and what I've just bought! Clock's ticking on the use by date.

Sally James, thigh high FMBs...

They appear to have applied wet render then pressed a chip pan into it to get a pattern! When my Lotto comes up I'll have all the paint blasted off and re-render it smooth...then EWI