Onoff

Bio-gas V8...everybody's happy!

No help whatsoever I imagine but I ordered one of these, a Bernstein: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/RIMLESS-WALL-HUNG-WALL-MOUNTED-TOILET-NT2038-Ceramic-Soft-close-duroplast-seat-/282355252671?_mwBanner=1

I've been looking at that exact site. A huge variety from diy rated to trade and professional though not sure what the difference is between the last two!

I've used Zarges through work for 35 years now funnily enough, not just ladders but bespoke travelling gantries in building atriums, aircraft steps etc. I've an aluminium ladder standoff like this: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/adjustable-ladder-stand-off-bracket/ Lightweight and dead easy to use but a bit fiddly with it's wingnuts etc. The fixings to attach it get shared with the "wheels" attachment that hooks over the ridge. I've also a Climba, steel ladder standoff that came with the garage. For my mate I was looking for a one stop shop for both bits.

My mate is after a 3-piece aluminium ladder. With it he's after one of those horizontal bars across the base and ideally a wall standoff. Budget is ideally £150 delivered. Been looking at the diy & trade spec ones at the like of MachineMart & Screweys. Just wondered if anyone has used a good online supplier. Thanks.

Reminds me of Ben Elton's book back in the early 90's, "Gridlock". From memory the hero invents an engine that runs on water or something but won't release the tech for it just to supplant mass ICE vehicle congestion. His vision is it's use in mass transport. Good read.

I see Sadiq Kahn is spouting something about charges being brought in for electric vehicles going into London etc. On about they're still polluting due to brake and tyre dust. As I've said before "they" are not prepared to the lose the massive revenue streams generated by congestion charging etc for traditional vehicles. They'll just come up with something for EVs like the aforementioned. On another note there was something the other day from an energy supplier I think about EV users never having to pay for charging again if they agree to connect their cars up and feed back to the grid when not in use.

As in horizontal, projectile sh**?

https://www.johnkingsley.ca/strawbale/sprayer/v2/ & http://cottagedreamers.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/diy-stucco-sprayer.html And there are LOADS of diy ones on Pinterest.

Add it to the unfinished project list (you know I'm now intrigued). Meanwhile: https://www.refina.co.uk/acatalog/GOT330-Hopper-Spray-Gun-150350.html#SID=25 10cfm btw.

Didn't I propose doing this in my mega bath thread, for my LED driver? Even I can't remember! Of course I've now put the driver outside the bathroom. Just make sure everything's bottom entry...

Zone 1, think of say a freestanding bath. But if you make it so you need a "tool" to get under there then it's outside the zone rule. Screwdriver to dig mastic/unscrew panel etc. Even a thin "blade" to lever off a magnetic catch panel.

This I think is the chart you want ref flush plate compatibility. I'm limited on choice as I have the (older?) 15cm deep Kappa frame(s)...but at £100 the pair, second hand, unused, I'll live with it! Compatibility_Chart_for_Flush_Plates_and_Buttons.pdf

I don't think you could drill that smooth sided a hole in timber for it to be worth bothering. I'd go something stick in a tube!

I'm a mere DIY'er but ffs have some pride! If in doubt put more in. Tbh I think I went 200mm ctrs then took on board @Nickfromwales comments and have been doubling up:

I reckon they didn't originally use stainless steel render beads! I had that on a corner of an extension and ended up hacking it off and fitting a st/st bead. Anything else will just delay the rust.

Any route between floors is still a potential fire /smoke route for sources other than the cu don't forget.

It'll be a pita if you were to neatly clip everything then board over with something immovable only to find you need to run another cable. You end up with that one "dangler" as reminder everytime you look up ! You could run a bunch of plastic conduits (plus spares) like pan pipes, flat to the surface just to act as guides and board over them. (As its up slope it'll offer more support). Have the spare tubes nominally in line with the spare breakers. Had no choice here but to hack a section out (all neatly repaired) to tidy up the existing cable lay and run new.

I'm guessing you've the mounting board spaced off the wall with the cables going through then up behind the board? If so go for it.

Anything really as long as its something. I've indeed used loads of that pretty pink foam around bfo armoured between floors. Just gets a bit messy when you want to add another cable and you have to dig it out.

Not wanting to put a downer on this but imo I don't think the regs have really caught up with "passive" build techniques yet. Such well constructed, vertical cable voids full of cables, sat above a cu are potential chimneys providing a fire route between floors. I'd urge anyone to think about a fire break. Neatly drilled holes in some frpb maybe all sealed with intumescent (touched on in another thread) would be a nod to it.

Rockwell Firepro does what it says on the tin...well tube at any rate! It's cheap too. You can also get it in gallon tubs for trowelling in. I've used this commercially. Most "names" offer 4/5 hour fire resistance but some claim better flexibility than others, different expansion rates or failure temperatures. See what it claims to stick too as well in relation to what you are doing. Some double up as acoustic sealants - all good for complying with Part E! Have a look too at Everbuild / Sika stuff. Firemate or Tecnic 300. (Don't think they come in tubs though). Don't think I've used a bad Everbuild product yet as an aside. With whatever check the BS & ISO numbers, the more the merrier but after Grenfell??? These 3 specifically state for use on "cables" - some don't and you're left guessing. But...most of them state a limitation that it shouldn't be used where it might come into contact with plasticisers that have leeched (out of the cables). To be fair that's not the problem it was with modern cables but be aware of old stuff.

Being the impetuous sort I am I'm asking this question after the event! Had to replace the pop up waste in the old, upstairs en suite. I ended up with a new, slotted, pop up waste from Wickes as Screwfix were out of them. I dispensed with the single, black rubber washer meant to go under the flange and instead used Sikaflex EBT. Applied a good amount under the flange of the new one and pushed it down into the porcelain. Then, without turning the waste I put the nut on from the underside with just a smear on the nut. All cleaned off with baby wipes and left for a few hours to skin rather than set. Looks good, all neat & tidy both sides and no leaks. I did it similarly on the bath waste following @Nickfromwales advice and I've had no issues with that. So impressed with the product and process I'm going to redo the badly done (by me) kitchen sink waste some time. Sikaflex is simply imo a better product than ordinary "silicone". Odd to describe if you've not used both, it just seems "thicker", maybe less likely to slump and be squeezed out of where you want it to stay. It almost has washer like qualities on it's own. BUT...reading the Sikaflex EBT data sheet it says to "use a mould resistant silicone for final sealing of sanitaryware". ??? sikaflex-ebt.pdf Should I be running a bead of something else afterwards?

Such sealant should be of the intumescent variety and not be detrimental to the PVC sheath of the cables.

I used to get a half Kenyan / half Columbian mix from a speciality shop at the bottom of The Minories back in the late 80's then back to the office to od on it. I can still smell it now.