Onoff

I've a big lawn and a BROKEN sit on mower! Got the electrics sorted last year but I think the gearbox (Peerless?) is gone now.

& after all your wife's hard work organising that!

Yep, that'll work! Some surplus 40x40x1 angle cut, bent and sprayed. Should allow me to get the falls spot on as per CAD: This side needs a tweak:

Work it all off...then put it all back on, nice! Ebb & flow, yin and yang.

Pumped??? You're never going to drop that weight by CHEATING! Doh! If I hadn't have taken the pi$$ I could have lined the boot with a tarp and scrounged a couple of barrows worth!

SWMBO would bring her dinner up looking at that...as would I. She'll be happy with the magazine fed loo roll holder in stainless steel! As for tight and pert.....two kids put paid to that!

So...going for the wet room corner slab this weekend as I am I'm looking for some validation for the above 1 : 1.5 : 1.5 cement/sand/10mm aggregate mix I'm going with as I'm aware it's a bit "out there"! Nearest I could find was the 1:2:2 mix here: It is in effect a small pre-cast area I'm thinking. Recommended for "garden furniture" I'm thinking those concrete benches you see are as tough as old boots. Or would the 1 : 2.5 : 3.5 in the above table be better? Dithering over the mix here!

The reason for favouring SBR was in part based on some small infill areas I did with just a strong sharp sand/cement mix with SBR added and NO water. It comes out like tough plastic and is very workable. I think the term is "polymerize". t

Some crossed wires if you'll excuse the pun. The 3-core and earth is only needed between the 2-way switches. In your case thru the wall from the new light switch inside to the new light switch outside. Tbh that can be ordinary flat 3-core and earth shoved in a bit of pvc duct. From the power take off box to the first light and then to the next etc 3-core swa would have been fine.

I said to save those Pringles tubes!

With the Polypipe trays the UFH pipes go UNDER the A142 mesh.....

OK. I'd wondered if you were thinking to use the Quinetic DC switching module.....that would involve some jiggery pokery / soldering.

This "remembering the setting" question ... Not sure with mine if it remembers the setting if you unplug the wall wart / switch off from the mains. Pretty sure it does just switching off via the remote. I'll try and reinstate mine over Easter and report. I could go through my thread as I think it's in there but life's too short! How will you use the Quinetic? 13A socket adapter receiver?

This morning's daft musing... If you lay a wet concrete slab with the UFH pipes empty are they more likely to float up as opposed to if water filled?

Following on from Jeremy's advice, I reckon if you had the space you could use an actual cable joint mould, made for job as you can trim to suit the pipe dia: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SWJK1.html?

Hang on, you said in an earlier post you already had the 20mm ducting....no? And why 4-core swa? That was suggested if two way switching and you needed to run a bit of swa between internal and external light switches.

Cable should fit...just. Ducting is 14/15mm 'ish inside. Might need some lube. I forget, did you already have the 4-core 1.5? Don't forget though nice to put it in ducting, SWA can go straight in the ground. Lights look alright, glanded in/out and rubber seal.

Mine are random off eBay...in pieces at the mo, undergoing some mods...

Mine does too.

I DREAM of UFH!

0.225m3 of concrete less the falls it works out as. Using this mix then: 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm)by weight by volume50kg cement 1 pbv cement100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water13 litres water* (add to consistencyYield approx 0.14m³ Is that saying 50kg of cement to yield 0.14m3 ? If so I'll need 4x25kg bags ???

DPM in and pipes clipped to the mesh. Edges foamed. I was a bit worried where the mesh had rubbed against the pipe but found 1" offcuts of mt fitted the bill perfectly. Also used a couple of bits to protect from the wall drain brackets. Slapped a bit of the perimeter expansion strip against the wall drain secured with spray adhesive. The new wet room slab bit will only expand against this or the blue foam encapsulating the waste. BUT...in time honoured @Onoff fashion I STILL can't find the fibres to add to the mix! Bought for the original slab pour they've just never reappeared. I'll be buying more! As for cement..I've got lots...one bag of Blue Circle use by date Oct 2017 and half a dozen bags of Redland circa Aug 2016. All still in their plastic bags and feeling soft enough.....do I REALLY have to buy new?

Just put an offcut of 3" drain pipe within the wall where the duct will go. Or a bit of 110mm soil.....or a stiff cardboard tube etc if you haven't got the duct yet. Bean/soup can at a push!

SBR is an admixture? That Sika stuff is £37.50/5l... If not SBR then it'll be this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80460?table=no

Stick a tag of some sort inside that new internal switch to say that it's on the power circuit. That way any one working on it will hopefully pick up on it when it comes to safe isolation. How high is your existing inside light switch? Guess you'll want the new switch level. I think the Part M height of 1200mm is great personally. Kids can reach without standing on a stool etc. Handy for if in a wheelchair obviously. Do I recall you were wanting inside and outside floor heights pretty much level?