Onoff

OK, I'll try and NOT resort to a drawing: The timber stud wall are suspended from the ceiling joists. The concrete floor was put in afterwards. I screwed screeding rails to the stud walls so the floor is pretty much bang on level. The 4 stud walls were made up on the floor then lifted up and screwed (6mmx100s) to the u/side of the ceiling joists. (The ceiling joists are a bit over spec for the span figuring storage and maybe a bath lift later on ). I have then a nom 50mm gap between the underside of the stud wall and top of finished concrete floor. The timber stud depth varies from 45mm to 145mm allowing for hiding the wc frame, services, feature pockets and to just generally square the room off. I've a minimum of 50mm of PIR in the walls. The timber studs are attached to the walls by either concrete screws or resin anchored M10 studs (high loads like the wc, where the concrete screws have failed to bite). Every single stud is held off the wall by minimum 5mm packers up to I think 100mm. Gun foam is squirted behind every stud and they're all PIR'd between. The wall drain is affixed to the original wall, so independent of the stud wall. I can mitigate that as I said above by using the M8 L bracket bolts. Thinking this through my main worry I think is that the wet room corner feels, by treading on it, has a bit of "give". Down to the batch of badly curved PIR sheets from Wickes I think. I'm worried even when the concrete goes in that after it cures, if you tread on that area there'll be a bit of bounce (especially with two people in that area, none of us are getting any lighter ).That in effect means the floor moving away from the wall and the tanking splitting potentially. That was good to think through and get down even it meant boring you lot! I'll go with what I said above and the bolts @Nickfromwales said just now. And yes Nick, I've got the big tanking kit and it's not yet past it's expiry! Did just drag it out of the loft as cold storage apparently drastically reduces it's shelf life Won't know until I open it.

So... I'm a little worried of the stud wall / wall drain / floor moving independently of each other and splitting the tanking membrane. I could run a strip of something above the wall drain element, secured by the x4 M8 bolts and screw to the top of the 2"x2" either side: That would secure the drain to the wall. If I kick up the ends of those two "L" brackets coming off the front of the wall drain element then they would key into the slab: Not sure if I need a bit more rebar in front of the element? Then to stop the wall to slab movement I was thinking drill down through the horizontal 2"x2" and fit some studs with big square washers in the end that would get captured by the slab.

So.....if my boy comes home from uni with one of the foreign girls he's mentioned will they be expecting a bidet?

Just sounds like Reddex for diesel cars. I bet you could use that tbh. Or Wynns etc equivalent.

He reckons he's got 15mm of depth to fill. Dunno where he'd get small bags of 6mm chippings. The TP stuff is 6mm to dust.

RAM will go out Monday. Wait and see if it makes any difference before fiddling too much?

This is easiest for him to get! https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-10mm-Gravel-Pea-Shingle-Major-Bag/p/220128

What's "dash"? EDIT: JUST twigged, pebbledash! Same question as before then, how thick a layer in the bottom of the void? And should it be "gappy" to allow the muck to bond to the solid stuff underneath? Ta.

Would a single layer of 10mm pea shingle first work? To bulk it out and have gaps for the compound to run between and key to the existing substrate? All I could find chippings wise was this: https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Grano-6mm-Dust-Trade-Pack/p/996251

So the Ultra will be OK above 12mm without bulking out? Says with this Mapei stuff you can add 20 - 30% sand for thicknesses greater than 10mm: latexplan.pdf

I like Midori but it can be a bit hands on: http://midori-browser.org/faqs/

Old dog / new tricks but for my purposes AutoCAD 2000 would do all I need including 3D stuff. I was trained on that anyway. I remember the upgrade to 2000i when they ditched revcloud...WTF? Had a clever mate who grafted revcloud into 2000i from 2000. I really need to get into Solid Edge (Works?) so I can create 3D PDFs that can be rotated and explored. I have AutoCAD 2010 at the mo which tbh I find a bit of a struggle but then I don't use it every day like I used to.

For winches stored outside we would usually make up a heavy duty pvc cover with some brass eyelets and drawstring. Lightweight so if it does fall off/blow away etc. I can see a barrel cut lengthways as a cover might work but a bit cumbersome maybe? So this sort of thing (4x4 winch), you'll struggle to hot weld the edges though. Velcro is often used for quick removal ones. Hole in the top for the hook: A local sailmaker would do it for a few quid. Been using this place for about 30 years now to make various covers: http://sailmakers.co.uk Mike there did a load of work on the Cutty Sark after it caught fire. So to diy you want a bit of pvc tarp, lorry siding etc and some of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/311793667452 You want airflow around the winch especially if it's working hard. In years past we've had to make sure operators leave the covers off in the Summer or the thermal overloads would kick in. I have a Silverline type winch kicking around and some eyelets etc. Could knock you up something very basic but you really want it reinforced around where the hook comes through.

Would mix No2 not do for this: Mix Design’s 1. Floor Screeding and Screed Repair (min. 6mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 150kg medium sand 2.5 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ 2. Heavy duty floor toppings (min. 12mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 75kg medium sand 1.25 pbv 75kg 6-3mm grano chips 1.25 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m3 3. Waterproof Renders (min.6mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 125kg medium sand 2 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv cement 100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv 100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv 5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.14m³ 5. Bonding Screeds, Plaster, New Concrete to Old by weight by volume 1kg cement 1 pbv cement 1 litre SBR 1 pbv SBR Yield approx 3-4m² per litre 6. Floating Screeds (min. 38mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 150kg medium sand 2.5 pbv 4.5litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13.5 litres water* (add to consistency

Says only up to 12mm for the Ultra or you have to bulk it out: "Level IT Two can be applied at depths between 2 and 12mm. For deeper sections up to a maximum of 30mm, it is necessary to bulk out with a suitable graded aggregate filler. This can drastically prolong curing times so allowances must be made accordingly". He's worried about the wm going on top. Or just lay to the 12mm max depth and let the tile adhesive take up the rest? (What tile adhesive will be the next question! )

Cheers. Any particular make of compound?

Posting this on behalf of a mate: "Lifted up the newer tiles back to the original ones. Gonna just tile over them like what was done before. What would you do for the back corner? Still need to take up the old adhesive but gonna have about a 15mm deep gap where no original tiles were. The washing machine is going there so don’t know if I’ll be able to get away with adding extra adhesive to raise those tiles or should use something else?" I was thinking bring up to level with existing tiles, a decent self levelling "something"? Or a strong SBR laden screed levelled off. How to prep though? Cheers

Any use? x2 4GB sticks: Don't get your hopes up it's just in a Hyper-X box

Pretty sure the ones I have are DDR3. I'll look when home (from the curry house ).

+1 on the SSD.

@JSHarris, what memory is it Jeremy as I might have a couple of sticks lying around spare? FOC if they'll fit. Deffo got 8GB of something or other doing nothing.

MK on the kinetic switch bandwagon now: https://www.mkelectric.com/en-gb/Products/WD/Echo/Pages/default.aspx Good things come to those who WAIT!

Fair play if that sauna switch can handle 850degC!

Low smoke T&E is good for I think 90deg. Ordinary for up to 70degC. At nom 50deg ambient you want to be applying a derating factor Ca to the cable don't forget. 0.71 for 70degC pvc. At 55degC it's 0.61. Obviously for 85deg rubber the derating factor is less.

If course if you take 7 years on something you can change it as you go along!