Onoff

Very nice that. With your username, Labradorite seems fitting!

I've used that British Bathtroom Company in my link a couple of times now. Good service & comns and the prices the cheapest I could find at the time.

Similar to what I'm doing with the remote mounted controls, these: http://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=Rei3411 & this riser rail / handset: http://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=A3041 Both are Hudson Reed and get the Welshman's OK. I'm stuck on the rainfall head but likely this ('coz it's cheap), again Hudson Reed: https://www.pebblegrey.co.uk/product/chrome-slim-round-fixed-head-300mm-diameter?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIruab_5_Y2QIVqL3tCh31xwMPEAQYCCABEgL0HfD_BwE

@recoveringacademic, what size threaded bar is that? Thinking that with a die nut: And a box spanner, you could re thread the damaged end. Then screw on a studding extension: Add a bit of studding, drill a hole in a spreader timber and have another go at winding it out. Edit: Have I read this wrong? The studs are already out?

If ever anyone needs M12 galvanised taper washers give me a shout...or 1/2" Whitworth galv nuts and bolts...or inglefield clips...

An "I" section beam, in this case Universal Beam. Think of the old RSJs shape though they had taper flanges. RSJ - rolled steel joist UB - universal beam UC - universal column All the above are "I" beams as in section they look like a capital i. RSC - rolled steel channel (tapered flanges) PFC - parallel flange channel RSA - rolled steel angle CHS - circular hollow section (aka tube/pipe) RHS & SHS - rectangular / square hollow section (aka box section) etc

And use a decent lubricating / pipe fitting compound I would, like (Jet Blue Plus) on the compression joints.

Race you?

And there was me expecting to watch a screeding video...

A fair way... Let's just say some on here have built complete houses in the time I've taken over this one room.

Could they be letting by if the mains pressure is too high?

Taken to the extreme you see flashes of lightning within volcanic eruptions and pyroclastic clouds.

Its the friction of the ash going up the plastic hose. You can get anti static hoses but they "earth" to the machine. You could ground yourself to something via a wrist strap maybe. Get enough of a charge and it could ignite the dust even if "cold". Dust fires in things like flour mills are horrific. I worked at a mill where all the conduit systems were pressurised (to keep the dust out).

Duly liked! Did you wet or dry cut the "Union Jack" cuts in the wet room corner? And are they ceramic or porcelein? Just shamelessly plagiarizing for when I do mine!

Ive been using de-aerator additive for a good while now in the few small slabs I've done (sheds, bathroom,sliding gate base). The "mix" just doesn't "bubble" as in as you tamp it down air doesn't appear to come up. I have only used the Everbuild Liquid Waterproofer (T'station do it) and only noted the de-aeration properties in the small print after buying the first lot for waterproofing purposes. Cheap as and seems to work. Surely negating air must assist with the self compacting properties? Do the big commercial size mixes say for passive slabs add anything like this?

I reckon a mechanism on the lines of a Paternoster lift would be cool.

I had a half hearted crack at reinstating the vcl. First some spray glue: Then a bit of scrap dpm: That was a pig: Got to line with the cloaking boards next. Boards are 150mm and the joists 145mm though. Don't know whether to cut the cloaking boards down to 145mm or add 5mm packing strips atop ALL the joists? At the mo I've only got 100mm PIR between joists. Aiming later to add another 50mm. That would put the top of the PIR 5mm above the top of joists. Adding 5mm timber packs would make everything level.

You should have said, I sense the 100gal cws tank I've recently given away would have stored a couple of weeks worth!

I think you need to aim a bit higher...or is that lower?

From what others have said on here would it pay to have a power float available? There's been some horror stories on here of late with finished slabs being anything but flat and level.

There was a story about a passive esque house that flooded from a burst pipe INSIDE when the owners were. So well sealed was the house that they couldn't open the inward opening door to get in. All they could do was look through the windows at their possessions floating. I wonder how resistant the houses are to flooding from outside? I think I posed the question ages ago whether such a house could FLOAT in a flood! (The consensus was it shouldn't).

Are the EPS beads fireproof? If not, arsonist's dream!

The big DeWalt router I have (semi permanent loan ) is superb. Heavy as anything but super smooth, vibration free and just stays where you want it. A proper beast.

Just stick matrix of big Starrett holes through a couple of matched pieces of decent ply. Space one off the wall by a couple of inches and the other a few inches in front of that. Edit: Just Google "hole saw wine rack". Loads of ideas. You can still use oak.

Looks good. Did I dream it or has this got a basement?