-
Posts
21032 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
206
Everything posted by Onoff
-
No that's downstairs, building paper on concrete. I think she's safe.
-
-
Software to Model fall of Sunlight / Shadow
Onoff replied to Ferdinand's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
This? https://www.findmyshadow.com/ -
By all means, Ed picked up the first faux pas!
-
I've got a 10mm tile trim and the tiles are 8mm.
-
Yep. I think you're right. Cheers for that!
-
Bump. Anyone?
-
Result! Has to be a weight off your mind.
-
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Added a couple of short st/st bolts to the brackets to key into the concrete as Nick suggested: Got a load of short lengths of M10 BZP stud. Used this to push down / support the slab to be! Just got to figure a timber across the top of the drain unit from where the bottle of Threadlock is to the other side, to tie the stud wall together. So...a bit of 2"x2" will nicely span across, bridging where I cut out for the wall drain: I WAS planning to replace the front M8 bolts at 'X' with studding and bring this up through the 2"x2". Unfortunately the edge distance is only 3-5mm. Would pumping the nom 4mm gap (where I'm pointing with the bevel) with Sikaflex "stick"the 2"x2" to the galvanised case of the drain? -
It's form over function for me I'm afraid. These things need to "stick out" and need vents to do their job. Aico every time. Kidde are much the same looks wise I suppose. The Nest stuff is a bit different in terms of looks.
-
NTFS worked. However...seems this is all I needed; sudo apt install exfat-fuse exfat-utils
-
Cheers all. Going to try and reformat it NTFS. In the back of my mind there's a reason why it's exFAT...
-
My lad has given me some films on a USB3.0 128GB memory stick. It shows up OK in the wife's Win 7 desktop In my laptop running Zorin 12 32-bit (Ubuntu base) it won't mount, when I try I get this message: Which is a pain as this lappy lives by the tv on which I want to watch the stuff! The stand alone media player won't see it either. Any suggestions? Cheers
-
Lidl were doing some cheap as chips O ring kits the other day.
-
Tape I think would be my first choice.
-
Could you run a waste pipe through say a compost pile to encourage activity within the pile during the winter months?
-
So no good for car pit walls? There won't be an SE in sight.
-
Label on the back says it includes a deaerator in it. Tamping stuff down and hardly any bubbles come up. Have a look at the data sheet: https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/202-integral-liquid-waterproofer/ Confusing tbh. Says not for use in structural concrete...guessing different stuff to what you guys are looking at.
-
Tbh I was hugely impressed at most of these foreign kid's grasp of English. Puts our foreign language teaching to shame.
-
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Layers compressing is what it is I reckon, as you say. I reckon if I just keep the ends of the A142 down on the edge it should do it. Studs down thru the 2"x2" into some square washers: -
Depends where she's from, a hole in the ground might be all she's used to! The fact it's got a roof...luxury!
-
How does that stuff vary from this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80460?table=no I've used it in every mix I've done for the last few years. Intend building a car pit and shuttering and casting the walls using this stuff in the mix. Different stuff?
-
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
OK, I'll try and NOT resort to a drawing: The timber stud wall are suspended from the ceiling joists. The concrete floor was put in afterwards. I screwed screeding rails to the stud walls so the floor is pretty much bang on level. The 4 stud walls were made up on the floor then lifted up and screwed (6mmx100s) to the u/side of the ceiling joists. (The ceiling joists are a bit over spec for the span figuring storage and maybe a bath lift later on ). I have then a nom 50mm gap between the underside of the stud wall and top of finished concrete floor. The timber stud depth varies from 45mm to 145mm allowing for hiding the wc frame, services, feature pockets and to just generally square the room off. I've a minimum of 50mm of PIR in the walls. The timber studs are attached to the walls by either concrete screws or resin anchored M10 studs (high loads like the wc, where the concrete screws have failed to bite). Every single stud is held off the wall by minimum 5mm packers up to I think 100mm. Gun foam is squirted behind every stud and they're all PIR'd between. The wall drain is affixed to the original wall, so independent of the stud wall. I can mitigate that as I said above by using the M8 L bracket bolts. Thinking this through my main worry I think is that the wet room corner feels, by treading on it, has a bit of "give". Down to the batch of badly curved PIR sheets from Wickes I think. I'm worried even when the concrete goes in that after it cures, if you tread on that area there'll be a bit of bounce (especially with two people in that area, none of us are getting any lighter ).That in effect means the floor moving away from the wall and the tanking splitting potentially. That was good to think through and get down even it meant boring you lot! I'll go with what I said above and the bolts @Nickfromwales said just now. And yes Nick, I've got the big tanking kit and it's not yet past it's expiry! Did just drag it out of the loft as cold storage apparently drastically reduces it's shelf life Won't know until I open it. -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
So... I'm a little worried of the stud wall / wall drain / floor moving independently of each other and splitting the tanking membrane. I could run a strip of something above the wall drain element, secured by the x4 M8 bolts and screw to the top of the 2"x2" either side: That would secure the drain to the wall. If I kick up the ends of those two "L" brackets coming off the front of the wall drain element then they would key into the slab: Not sure if I need a bit more rebar in front of the element? Then to stop the wall to slab movement I was thinking drill down through the horizontal 2"x2" and fit some studs with big square washers in the end that would get captured by the slab.
