Onoff

0.225m3 of concrete less the falls it works out as. Using this mix then: 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm)by weight by volume50kg cement 1 pbv cement100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water13 litres water* (add to consistencyYield approx 0.14m³ Is that saying 50kg of cement to yield 0.14m3 ? If so I'll need 4x25kg bags ???

DPM in and pipes clipped to the mesh. Edges foamed. I was a bit worried where the mesh had rubbed against the pipe but found 1" offcuts of mt fitted the bill perfectly. Also used a couple of bits to protect from the wall drain brackets. Slapped a bit of the perimeter expansion strip against the wall drain secured with spray adhesive. The new wet room slab bit will only expand against this or the blue foam encapsulating the waste. BUT...in time honoured @Onoff fashion I STILL can't find the fibres to add to the mix! Bought for the original slab pour they've just never reappeared. I'll be buying more! As for cement..I've got lots...one bag of Blue Circle use by date Oct 2017 and half a dozen bags of Redland circa Aug 2016. All still in their plastic bags and feeling soft enough.....do I REALLY have to buy new?

Just put an offcut of 3" drain pipe within the wall where the duct will go. Or a bit of 110mm soil.....or a stiff cardboard tube etc if you haven't got the duct yet. Bean/soup can at a push!

SBR is an admixture? That Sika stuff is £37.50/5l... If not SBR then it'll be this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80460?table=no

Stick a tag of some sort inside that new internal switch to say that it's on the power circuit. That way any one working on it will hopefully pick up on it when it comes to safe isolation. How high is your existing inside light switch? Guess you'll want the new switch level. I think the Part M height of 1200mm is great personally. Kids can reach without standing on a stool etc. Handy for if in a wheelchair obviously. Do I recall you were wanting inside and outside floor heights pretty much level?

Bugger, I didn't read that the internal switch was existing! (The old acetone in the eyes + 2 beers excuse ). Mixing the supplies from two circuits on the same plate isn't a very good idea imo. Good chance somebody might isolate the "lighting" circuit but there's still power there from the "power" circuit still on. A competent person should test for dead as well but would Joe Public? Earth fault on the lights could affect the power circuit etc. Saying that, unless a light switch on a power circuit is labelled as to where it's fed from then same confusion / risk. Add a second, dedicated switch, stick a label on it and hide behind the curtain! @ProDave will be along in a minute to sort this out... Hang on... if you can get into the cavity then couldn't you remove that wall light on the left and drop a 1.5mm t&e down to the blue junction box. Take your swa to the patio lights from there? I need coffee and the gout is playing up! Might be the start of rheumatism in the knees thinking about it...

I was surprised at just how large our Geberit Kappa 20 flush plates are. Still, got them for around £20 each!

Like this?

See now, I bought quality Geberit stuff cheap off eBay / Gumtree THEN showed the missus the price of it new! That sold it! The flush plates limited choice was just a fait accompli!

I'd only had one beer (the last Estrella). More miffed I might not be able to have another if I had to go to A&E tbh. Going to self medicate with a new Lidl lager whilst the foam goes off.

F***! F***! F***! Changing the foam gun cannister over just now and I went to screw on the gun cleaner.....Lucky I had glasses on as I got a full blast of acetone in both eyes! Head under sink asap and the right is pretty much back to normal. Left one slightly more irritated!

Will Soudal Soudafoam affect Pex-Al-Pex pipe?

That plastic "outdoor box" - is it two double sockets in there or just a terminal box ready for "something?

Notched trowels, I haven't got any. Looking at the 10mm and 6mm versions of this Rubi one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/rubi-10mm-notched-adhesive-trowel-11-x-4/5578k With my £10 off voucher it'll be £1.99 then same again next week for the 6mm one. Are they any good?

Why not run some 20mm duct, 2 to each position and get the brickie to leave a brick out in that location. Tbh you could cut brick sized chunks of PIR or eps for him to lay & dig out later when you fit your brick lights. You don't even have to run a full length from the connection point at the house. Start it just before where the walling starts. Join it later.

SBR seems to make the concrete end up more "plasticy" than PVA in my experience with it. Was going to go 3:1as per the mix instructions, water/SBR. I won't be trowelling it, more barrow/shovel/tamp to falls.

With all these chips I'd just get a local fabricator to fold some say 1mm stainless sheet into a "20x6" angle - more a lipped strip. Then brush finish by hand and CT1 it on.

Cheers. What's wrong with the mix? I figured strong & "resinous". It's either the 10mm pea shingle or 20mm ballast I have here.

So...planning on concreting the wet room corner over Easter. That's 4 days time! Where I've removed the red Polypipe tray and I've added the DPM the "interface" is a bit ragged. Best thing I can think to do to protect the PIR foil from the concrete is duct tape and low expansion foam? I'm going to be using an SBR heavy mix to make it hopefully resilient. SBR can apparently be used as a primer. In the past "joining" new concrete to old I'd have primed the old edges with neat PVA and made up the new concrete with 5:1 PVA. But I'm using SBR & using this mix: 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv cement 100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv 100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv 5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.14m³ Should I prime the existing concrete edges with neat SBR? Ta.

When our cat was on it's last legs it took to peeing in one spot in the boiler room. Ruined a stack of 15mm copper pipe I had tucked against the wall.

We watch Netflix via a laptop connected to the non smart tv via hdmi. The laptop sits on a coffee table next to the tv. I use it with a mini Bluetooth keyboard / mouse. Wires traipsing across, not ideal. It also means I can't use the laptop. So I've another donated laptop on which the pcb keyboard connector is broken beyond repair. Only option is to use with a USB keyboard or indeed the mini Bluetooth one above. Other than that it works fine. This would be ideal to sit under the tv and forget about it, freeing up the other laptop. Questions: 1) Can I default set the laptop to feed the sound and graphics via the HDMI port? At the mo I have to go thru Settings every time. (Running Zorin Ubuntu derivative btw). 2) Is there any way I can leave the lid shut so the laptop just comes to life when switched on at the wall? Cheers

I have the land to bury 100s of metres of pipe. Not a clue what that means though!

You're no fun! Start everything with can we not should we!

@bissoejosh don't you mean 7016?

What's the elevation of the garden / falls from where the outbuilding is going to the foul drain up top. Let's do the maths!