Onoff

I'm going to measure all my pipe runs just to make you all feel BETTER. I bet I've got the longest!

Something to seal e.g paint or even PVA then interlocking garage floor tiles. Shop around as price and quality varies.

It's the voices in my head tell me to do these things: Not forgotten, just on the back burner. Maybe this Summer!

I might even have finished one or two? The UFH pipe decoiler and bedside table are the only two that spring to mind!

Go right back to the start of 1588 photos and 10 videos and you'll get a feel. Started life as a non square room with the ceiling 6" higher one end than the other and the concrete floor 60mm higher than the rest of the house! So new floor, ceiling and walls: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd

If you go for a "make" then MK is 40deg: https://www.mkelectric.com/Documents/English/EN MK Technical Specifications/T02 LOGIC PLUS Tech 355-389.pdf As in Click Mode: https://www.scolmore.com/_pdfs/spec_bros/Mode Switches.pdf I think you'll struggle for a standard white plastic jobbie. Something like a sauna rated switch? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Surface-mounted-Sauna-Toggle-Switch-IP54-All-in-one-Frame-Insert-Cover-/122932662577?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 Or intrinsically rated / hazardous area one, maybe this: http://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4574079-16a-2-pole-zone-1-light-switch

Good idea. Then I'll put a floor drain in like you!

Especially for @newhome, less of a "story so far", more of a this is where it's heading: So the wall drain... Cable tied the pipes to the A142 mesh. Brought it away a little from the trap: That yellow bit stays on until the concrete is laid to falls. It then comes off and the membrane folds out as per the video. The concrete has to come up to where I'm pointing: Now all around the room I have an expansion strip where my finger is:: Not sure whether to carry it across the front and sides? In the Geberit video the sides of the wall drain unit are in the wall, not the slab: I've bent the very ends of the mesh down. Should get in excess of 50mm of concrete above the A142 mesh. Concrete will come up to the yellow flange: There's two more brackets to be bolted on, thinking to kick the end up just in front of the UFH pipe so it's well tied into the concrete: Christ on a bike, the draught coming through where there's no water in the trap!

Only 2 years? The blue DPM inserted afterwards takes the place of the red Polypipe paneled area I removed in situ. The Polypipe panels by virtue of their construction leave "hollows ". The slab in the wet room corner tapers so I wanted as much concrete there as possible. Can't abide Lord Of The Rings! Gave up on the books and first film.

Just got @newhome! I reckon the A142 by the wall drain is a bit too bouncy? I can easily bend it downward a bit which would help to increase the concrete coverage over the mesh. It will however likely put the UFH pipes at the bottom of the slab rather than a litle way up like where they sat in the Polypipe tray. Might not be a bad thing ref the trap maybe drying out! Now the pipes aren't constrained by the tray I can bend them away a bit from the trap before tying to the mesh.

Ardex vs rapid setting cement: I think with concrete it's generally accepted practice to allow a mm/day for it to cure before tiling or in this case tanking first. Ardex, is that rapid cure as well as rapid set? And the extra rapid set stuff like this, sets quick but takes longer to cure? Not that I'll be using either as half an hour is far too quick for me!

Page 39 of this thread it, in the form of "chicken wire", was discussed. Thinking though it may have been because I was planning on casting the wet room corner in 3 sections...or maybe because I was concerned the edge of the finished area might be a bit thin (70mm) where it falls to the wall drain.

If I concrete this in one hit should I still look to add fibres and some stainless steel chicken mesh? (Might have to be galvanised mesh). What size mesh, 1"x1", 2"x2"? Cheers

Um...referred to now as 230 and 400V since mid '90s. Even though it may measure differently as we all know. In practice nothing has changed except us falling into line with Europe. Roll on Brexit and we can go back to proper colours where RED is live and dangerous as nature intended. Let's face it brown looks "cuddly"!

+1. Pity SWMBO here wants WHITE PVC!

Community hugs & support! Feeling better now, thanks lads! Struggling getting this bit of DPM in place. Had to roll it as tight as then sort of unroll bit by bit, pull a bit, repeat. Just getting the first bit under knackered me and I'm having to recover with a Doom Bar! It's like playing Twister as I can't lean on the mesh. I suppose I could ask SWMBO for help but we'd likely fight to the death! EDIT: By the power of Doom Bar Needs some trimming to fit round the rough edges but happy with that. BEER makes everything better! Debating the London Pride now... NEW cunning plan to put temporary screeding rails in to get the wall drain falls exactly as per the CAD. It's a winner!

Bugger! Didn't see this coming! Where I've taken a while getting the wet room corner done I've been walking on it. Looks like I've started to abrade the Pex-Al-Pex a bit! I never cable tied it to the mesh either... I know this stuff takes some abuse but I'm worried again. It is NOT coming up so all I can do is pressure test again and hope. If it leaks then we won't be having UFH!

Reparing damaged PIR with TIN FOIL!

3P is great if you're into home workshop stuff. Or you can get those nice Bosch ovens with the option to wire hob/grill and oven off separate phases!

En suite shower / wc upstairs and a downstairs cloak. The BATH is working tbh fair.....

So with my hard water I should think about remote NRV (s) if I can? Lucky I hadn't already fitted and tiled over these!

Hudson Reed: https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/about-us

Fair enough. Got a feeling my two standalone PIRs are Eagle brand and tbh they have lasted for years.

Steinel if you'vegot deep pockets.

Tbh a big reason for this Hudson Reed mixer was that it sort of matches the Bristan bath & basin taps.