Onoff

So once again powered by Cobra and a strange aubergine recipe the wife got from the Aldi website... Mitreing this corner tonight or at least making a stab. I first considered putting noggins across as previous. Then I figured continuous vertical support would be better so I ripped a length of 2"x2": And after a bit of reverse Pythagoras and some duct tape: Got to decide whether I'll ply this before putting the Aquapanel on. I think it's just the handset riser going on this wall. She'll be right I reckon! Beer o'clock (again).

My BiL came round tonight after some electrical crimps. His comment as we went into my DOUBLE garage was "You need another garage!" Tbh it's more store than workspace though there are two project cars in there. 4" block walls and rendered externally it's not that inviting to work in tbh. Truss rafters in the roof limit what I can store up there. It came with the house so beggars can't be etc. Being a soft Southerner if I built a garage now I'd put UFH in...and a beer fridge.

You will have to have a maintenance free junction box seeing as you can't get easy access to it. A Wiska box, gel filled, as above with Wagos in satisfies this. One swa in and one out. One take off for a flex (H07 RNF or similar) to the light. Once that jb is in you won't really be able to take the lid off easily and get your hands in. I would take out a letter box size bit from the blocks at the rear and slip a board down as you said. This will create a deep (front to back) but shallow (height) cavity. You should be able to get a gland that will screw into the light and take the flex. The flex can be a bit long to enable you to easily haul the light fitting out and work on it. Measure that gland properly if you can: This is an M16: I'm measuring the OD of the threads with the Vernier. You can see here how the gland size is written on this one "M20x1.5": You can get all sorts of adapters to say put a bigger gland too a smaller tapped hole. As a for instance Goggle "m20 gland adapter" and go Images to see what I mean. For my sins I get to work with all sorts of cabling and glands. If really unlucky I'll have to drill a steel plate and thread it to accept a gland. This for instance is an M25 tap: As a complete aside most Metric bolts you buy will be coarse thread as standard. Electrical M20 and M25 threads are much finer pitch at 1.5mm. Your swa. Just because it's "armoured" doesn't mean it's bulletproof. You start slinging in assorted sharp hardcore & crap and it may cut the outer sheath. I'd clip to the back of the wall as low down as possible and cover with sand, sieved dirt etc. And take some pictures to show the electrician. He is supposed to be verifying the wiring system when he signs off which he shouldn't really do unless he's done it himself or is happy to sign off 3rd party works. Probably won't be best pleased you've taken the meat out of the job anyway. Or wait for Dave! Onoff OUT!

S'fix only seem to do rapid setting ones... Is Norcros any good? Not sure of the difference between these two other than one's white and the other grey: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Norcros-Universal-Standard-Setting-Tile-Adhesive-White-20kg/p/169651 https://www.wickes.co.uk/Norcros-Standard-Setting-Flexible-Tile-Adhesive-Grey-20kg/p/167671

Ta. So would putting everything on mains pressure (eventually) sort this? Guessing maybe not? Pressure at the moment is pretty good tbh.

When I turn the bath tap (s) off it sounds like the pipes are banging in the wall! Not always though. I thought I'd been really careful clipping and insulating. So up in the loft: Then down through the ceiling: Then down the wall in 'Vs': The 'Vs' removed have been fiamed back in less the pipe stand off. This is all packed with insulation now: Maybe where the pipes pass thru here? I could foam in there? Just can't figure it.

Cheers. What do I mix it with though I assume instructions are on the bag! I've got one of these:

Me and "rapid"??? Seriously, will I be quick enough not having tiled before?

@Nickfromwales is there any tile adhesive worth buying from Screwfix? I was looking to use up my £30 worth of vouchers. Or indeed Wickes as they have 15% off for the next half an hour! I know the mix it yourself stuff rather than pre-mixed in a tub! Cheers

Just found my local BM (Otford Builders Merchants) does the CT1 range!

Quite noticeable how much denser the newly laid wet room corner is / feels to walk on compared to the rest of the floor that has Polypipe panels underneath. So now I need to mitre the corner. Planning on just going across the noggins in the walls though I need to put some more in:

Yep. I have all my stuff from them so far. Found at random when they were the lowest price for the towel radiator. There was a delay I seem to remember but their comms & service were spot on.

Me too...just ordered it!

I'm renowned in the house for if something's in front of me I eat it. Slumped in the sofa yesterday watching some telly, famished and wolfing some filled pittas the wife had done, I might have dropped a few crumbs down my front. Very nearly ate a large SPLINTER!

Might as well add to this thread! So is this pebble grey, chrome plated or stainless steel? The price as well as it being Hudson Reed attracted me. Figured if 300mm dia isn't big enough it's relatively cheap to replace later. https://www.pebblegrey.co.uk/product/chrome-slim-round-fixed-head-300mm-diameter Cheers EDIT Pebble Grey is the supplier! I have mind just had a big bottle of Cobra! So...is it chrome plated or stainless?

Just having a play here with an old 80x80x50 box: You'll easily get two swa glands and a flex/conduit gland in plus x3 Wagos. If you used a similar Wiska box: https://www.rselectricalsupplies.co.uk/wiska-308-combi-empty-pvc-enclosure-ip66-85x85x51mm-308emptyb_1734? On the 308 box the swa glands with screw straight in without the locknut. If you get the optional earth bar that takes care of maintaining continuity of the swa: You will need to replace one of the Wagos with a 5-way to take the fly lead from the earth bar. You could.....buy an undrilled enclosure yourself. Drill x3 20mm holes. Put the swa banjos back to back (to maintain continuity) and fit an M6 brass nut and bolt with ring crimp for the fly lead... https://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?isRefine=true&sid=miromst&isRefine=true&_pgn=1&_mwBanner=1

The only thing stopping ours being used now is lack of insulation, plumbing, electrics, Aquapanel, tanking, plaster, tiles... I do have a hot water tank though...

Trim removed and scabbled with a metal plate: Not sure whether I should smooth that edge where the angle former came off? @Nickfromwales, from 3m50s onwards in this video: what's the "stuff" they're trowelling on to stick the drain membrane down? Cheers

Sounds like a plan. You could back the cavity with a bit of dpm wrapped 3/4" ply... Won't though one brick's width / height (more so) still be a bit awkward to get in an mess around with the jb if it's like a foot back from the face? I'd still go for Wago's in the box. How about this, 110x110x67mm: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-abox-lever-connector-222-series-junction-box/9390G? I've got one in the motor thinking about it. Comes with x5 3-way Wagos which is ideal; feed in, feed out and off to the light. The jb would have to lay on it's side though I think? You wouldn't get in there again.

This Sika product is like what I was talking about for protecting steel within existing concrete. https://gbr.sika.com/en/solutions_products/sika-markets/concrete-repair/total-corrosion-management/multi-functional-corrosion-inhibitors.html There was a really good piece in one of the broadsheets a few years back to do with carbonated old concrete and it's re alkalisation. Guessing Sika bought them out maybe?

Took the first steel off...might be a tad high on the right...

Was debating uscrewing the former angles by the drain now along with taking out the screws holding the flat plates down? Not sure how well I rammed in the new stuff against old but I did prime the old first with neat SBR.

Yeah I've read similar. Got a good piece somewhere about how for many years concrete has a protective effect on steel reinforcing within due to its alkalinity. Over time though CO2 seeps in and acidifies everything causing the steel to rot. The article was on why the early art deco concrete buildings failed and what was being done to save them. There's some process now that arrests the rot. Guess modern admixtures have an effect too on concrete today?

I have no idea how long this mix will take to dry out before tiling. With the SBR in it's unchartered territory. The old 'X' mm per day is out the window I imagine? Does the fact it's waterproof concrete mean water is excluded from the start, how does this stuff dry out? Will it dry quicker? Couldn't resist trying a bit more tamping on the rhs section last night. Funny how that bit is now "drying" quicker. Tbh it was bringing fibres to the surface so had to force myself to leave it. Not sure if I should have covered it with a plastic sheet...too late now? I might go over it with a heavy metal plate just to knock the odd snot off of it here and there The wife commented how much bigger it looked last night...

Trying to bring the cost of a (still decent) jb down I'm thinking maybe a Wiska / Magic box with gel filling. I might go and have a play later with a bit of swa & Wagos. The Wiska boxes jump massively in price though from the small 80x80, 110x110mm to the 160x140 size. The bigger one though has superior (easier) glanding via 3 holes at the bottom. Could maybe turn a smaller, square one thru 45deg to still keep the entries on a downward facing face... Tbh you could fill up a cheaper IP6x box with gel still... https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Wiska/Boxes_Adaptable_Moulded/index.html