Onoff

Strictly speaking you should paint the cut ends of roof / tile battens with a suitable preservative...

Now the biting makes sense! For some reason I though the brick lights were going on a wall down the garden. This is that bit you were on about ages ago where the ground has to come up by a metre or something? You talked about paving over the top rather than decking I think. Seeing the trench and it slowly dawned on me. You might be better then using "Hi-tuf" type stuff: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/NY1dot5slash3.html Easier to make off and a bit more flexible. Tbh if you haven't bought the swa glands yet etc. The glands on the link aren't IP rated enough really. These are IP68 with an umcompressed seal ID of 13mm and the cable above is nom 12.7mm dia. https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-comp-gland-black-20mm-pack-of-2/80851

Proper Pratley boxes with mf (maintenance free) connections are the proper way if burying and wanting to maintain the IP rating and NOT have future issues with water ingress.

Let's be honest kids are happy in a big cardboard box and don't feel the cold like we do. Have you been watching Dengineers? Whatever you do, do it quick. I had grand plans for my nearly teenage daughter and never finished it. Spent a bloddy fortune on it too! Will probably rip it down soon. However, if like me you like to get out of the house then go for it!

Not much in it as in 3 or 4 core. You want CW 20S swa glands probably instead of those brass inserts. If you unscrew one does it say M20 on the edge? A rule will tell you. You might need to chamfer the back of the bricks little. If you know where the lights are going get the brickie to do it as he goes along. It'll take him seconds. Rather than exact lengths just have a bit of sag between fittings. Once the first is made off it should all become apparent. Going belt and braces and keeping the armoured continuous you would also need to link the banjos. I imagine you'll be using 3 of the 4 cores for L, N & E. Don't forget to sleeve the core chosen for the earth with grn/yellow sleeve. Is it black, brown, blue & grey? Go brown L, blue N and make the grey or black the cpc but sleeve as said.

I've a big lawn and a BROKEN sit on mower! Got the electrics sorted last year but I think the gearbox (Peerless?) is gone now.

& after all your wife's hard work organising that!

Yep, that'll work! Some surplus 40x40x1 angle cut, bent and sprayed. Should allow me to get the falls spot on as per CAD: This side needs a tweak:

Work it all off...then put it all back on, nice! Ebb & flow, yin and yang.

Pumped??? You're never going to drop that weight by CHEATING! Doh! If I hadn't have taken the pi$$ I could have lined the boot with a tarp and scrounged a couple of barrows worth!

SWMBO would bring her dinner up looking at that...as would I. She'll be happy with the magazine fed loo roll holder in stainless steel! As for tight and pert.....two kids put paid to that!

So...going for the wet room corner slab this weekend as I am I'm looking for some validation for the above 1 : 1.5 : 1.5 cement/sand/10mm aggregate mix I'm going with as I'm aware it's a bit "out there"! Nearest I could find was the 1:2:2 mix here: It is in effect a small pre-cast area I'm thinking. Recommended for "garden furniture" I'm thinking those concrete benches you see are as tough as old boots. Or would the 1 : 2.5 : 3.5 in the above table be better? Dithering over the mix here!

The reason for favouring SBR was in part based on some small infill areas I did with just a strong sharp sand/cement mix with SBR added and NO water. It comes out like tough plastic and is very workable. I think the term is "polymerize". t

Some crossed wires if you'll excuse the pun. The 3-core and earth is only needed between the 2-way switches. In your case thru the wall from the new light switch inside to the new light switch outside. Tbh that can be ordinary flat 3-core and earth shoved in a bit of pvc duct. From the power take off box to the first light and then to the next etc 3-core swa would have been fine.

I said to save those Pringles tubes!

With the Polypipe trays the UFH pipes go UNDER the A142 mesh.....

OK. I'd wondered if you were thinking to use the Quinetic DC switching module.....that would involve some jiggery pokery / soldering.

This "remembering the setting" question ... Not sure with mine if it remembers the setting if you unplug the wall wart / switch off from the mains. Pretty sure it does just switching off via the remote. I'll try and reinstate mine over Easter and report. I could go through my thread as I think it's in there but life's too short! How will you use the Quinetic? 13A socket adapter receiver?

This morning's daft musing... If you lay a wet concrete slab with the UFH pipes empty are they more likely to float up as opposed to if water filled?

Following on from Jeremy's advice, I reckon if you had the space you could use an actual cable joint mould, made for job as you can trim to suit the pipe dia: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SWJK1.html?

Hang on, you said in an earlier post you already had the 20mm ducting....no? And why 4-core swa? That was suggested if two way switching and you needed to run a bit of swa between internal and external light switches.

Cable should fit...just. Ducting is 14/15mm 'ish inside. Might need some lube. I forget, did you already have the 4-core 1.5? Don't forget though nice to put it in ducting, SWA can go straight in the ground. Lights look alright, glanded in/out and rubber seal.

Mine are random off eBay...in pieces at the mo, undergoing some mods...

Mine does too.

I DREAM of UFH!