Onoff

How about Wago-Capsules? Cheaper than Pratleys https://www.connexbox.com/wagobox-capsule-ip68-adaptable-junction-box-grey.html In and out with the swa. Internal connections using Wagos so maintenance free. Then a short bit of flex in 20mm flexible conduit to each light. You need the earth plate to keep continuity of the armoured: https://www.connexbox.com/wagobox-capsule-lid-steel-earth-bonding-plate-for-20mm-glands-with-earth-cable.html

Interesting mix that was! Smells like when you work with plastic. Pretty sticky! 5l bucket cement 7.5l bucket 10mm pea shingle 7.5l bucket sharp sand So 1 : 1.5 : 1.5 3:1 water to SBR A handful of fibres Repeat! Seemed to go in alright though: You can see the fall line: And from a distance how it falls overall. Not sure if it'll float when bit drier or even if it's necessary. Hoping the angle and flat steel plates will come off alright and not be stuck. Whatever, TF for thick tile adhesive!

14.35hrs Easter Sunday...firing up the mixer!

That looks the mutt's nuts, what a transformation! These LED lights, (like so many now inc pricey ones), have non replaceable bulbs so you ideally want to think about how you might replace them when one packs up. It's replace the whole fitting rather than just the bulb. They'll be easy to fit before back filling and paving but thereafter possible a pita unless you have some flexibility within the cable so you can take the light off of the wall from the front and withdraw that bringing some cable with it to have enough wriggle room to fit the new light. With the swa you would really have to form loops and leave a void behind each light. The double thickness blockwork helps if anything. Backfilling and paving...You might as well be putting it all under concrete! Beware fitting maintainable junction boxes where you can't get to them.

Modding the stud work for the pocket. I could have just stuck the pocket between the studs but I want it to line up with a specific tile layout. That white area of thick old render is hollow sounding and pretty loose tbh. It's an old blocked up doorway there I think, filled in with thinner blocks than the rest of the wall. Someone even made an attempt to render over the cream painted wall! Bodge after bodge.

Plenty container projects to look at on Pinterest. I think condensation might be a big issue.

I reckon CT1?

Yeah but you were rushing to get to the pub! Looks great btw!

More a premonition.....

And they're comparatively lightweight so you haven't got to worry about whether you've secured your battens to the wall really well and whether they'll support the hundreds of kilos of tiles you've bought!

I always put the lid down before I flush tbh. Read somewhere that "germs" will waft about 6' from the loo in all directions when you flush. Not good in a small bathroom. Also that they'll go through 10 layers of loo roll... I choose to believe!

I think I might carry on with figuring the studwork pockets before I concrete. Otherwise I won't be able to tread on that area for a week and it'll slow things up...

Surely if you don't flush there's no need to put the seat down?

All ready for filling up with my exotic pea shingle mix. Can't think of anything else that'll delay it! Fall according to Geberit was 1-2% which equated to 13-26mm. I was going to go for the 1% but with no glass screens for the mo and no UFH working I figured get rid of the water a bit quicker. Aimed therefore for slap bang in the middle 18mm (1.5%). According to the laser level on the steel former it's 450mm at the high ends and 432mm where the steel is flat under the yellow cover. I'd say luck more than judgement but it is tbh judgement! All vacuumed and vacuumed again. I just need it stop raining so I can get on with it!

Looks the business that!

You don't have to use those brass inserts. You could blank off and redrill for glands on those angled faces and come in from the rear. Or either side of the brick light position lay a brick cut to half it's depth.

Got it. You then cut the D shaped bits out both sides to allow cable access.

Doesn't the bit with the brass inserts screw onto the 60mm deep front section? Won't that put the brass inserts beyond or very near beyond the back of the brick? What is the diameter of the threaded part of the brass insert?

Make it nice so you can use it as a man cave when SWMBO gets the ar5e!

Would soda crystals work? I only ask as in the States soda blasting is a big thing and they sell the residue from the cleaning process to the rail companies who use it for weed control on the tracks.

Strictly speaking you should paint the cut ends of roof / tile battens with a suitable preservative...

Now the biting makes sense! For some reason I though the brick lights were going on a wall down the garden. This is that bit you were on about ages ago where the ground has to come up by a metre or something? You talked about paving over the top rather than decking I think. Seeing the trench and it slowly dawned on me. You might be better then using "Hi-tuf" type stuff: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/NY1dot5slash3.html Easier to make off and a bit more flexible. Tbh if you haven't bought the swa glands yet etc. The glands on the link aren't IP rated enough really. These are IP68 with an umcompressed seal ID of 13mm and the cable above is nom 12.7mm dia. https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-comp-gland-black-20mm-pack-of-2/80851

Proper Pratley boxes with mf (maintenance free) connections are the proper way if burying and wanting to maintain the IP rating and NOT have future issues with water ingress.

Let's be honest kids are happy in a big cardboard box and don't feel the cold like we do. Have you been watching Dengineers? Whatever you do, do it quick. I had grand plans for my nearly teenage daughter and never finished it. Spent a bloddy fortune on it too! Will probably rip it down soon. However, if like me you like to get out of the house then go for it!

Not much in it as in 3 or 4 core. You want CW 20S swa glands probably instead of those brass inserts. If you unscrew one does it say M20 on the edge? A rule will tell you. You might need to chamfer the back of the bricks little. If you know where the lights are going get the brickie to do it as he goes along. It'll take him seconds. Rather than exact lengths just have a bit of sag between fittings. Once the first is made off it should all become apparent. Going belt and braces and keeping the armoured continuous you would also need to link the banjos. I imagine you'll be using 3 of the 4 cores for L, N & E. Don't forget to sleeve the core chosen for the earth with grn/yellow sleeve. Is it black, brown, blue & grey? Go brown L, blue N and make the grey or black the cpc but sleeve as said.