Onoff

Gym user? Think I might have posted up when I used Falcon Trunking? Someone comnented it (the trunking) looked nice. They do cable AND pipe management systems: http://www.falcontrunking.co.uk/home.html

...I'll check! Cheers.

If tiling a wall or floor with the same colour tile and you have multiple boxes, what's the norm to minimise shade differences, do you open all the boxes and pick from one box after the other? Wife now getting ready to moan there's 34 odd boxes of tiles getting in the way in the dining room! Cheers

I Sikaflexed my bath trap in rather than CT1...my post Jan 30 2017:

Pics please as I plan ceiling mounted. Above the ceiling too if you've any shots. Cheers.

I'm guessing this: Or See @Nickfromwales post of Jan 14th:

Can't stand decking, veritable rat city! These are going at low level round the bath surround. Quite low wattage so subtle.

Now I wouldn't usually buy LAP anything... Long story but the other day I got an Electricfix coupon booklet through the post. A £10 voucher for the next 4 weeks. When you've used them there's a £20 voucher. So £60 off in total. Used the first voucher last week. With my Electricfix discount it brought an MK usb double socket down to £7. Saw these today and I figured that would be a cheap go around the bottom of the bath surround. Down to £14.99 from £50. I'm figuring then a fiver if I use this week's £10 voucher. https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-apollo-led-deck-light-kit-polished-stainless-steel-blue-0-05w-10-pack/96379 Went to the Electricfix counter. Comes up as £14.99. She puts it through and the final bill is £4.99 WITHOUT having to use the voucher! ??? Then I came home and found a big bottle of Singha beer in the fridge when I thought I'd run out!

K'bridge outside lights don't get glowing reviews tbh. The Eddies ones and probably the link I put up if the same lights allow cable in /cable out. So two cables to each lamp except the last in line of course. You could drop in some 20mm flexible conduit for now.

Someone's seen £7.99ea / only 8 left methinks! They take replaceable PL lamps whereas with a lot of LED stuff you need to bin the whole fitting. You have to buy the lamp on top but still only adds a couple of quid. BUT ONLY IP44 so no! As for your Eddies link...expensive! Same thing? https://www.rselectricalsupplies.co.uk/garden-light-led-slim-brick-light-white-light-enzowh_1932?

You ideally want the outside lights on a normal light switch, indoors, at a normal height. Handy if this can be next to say where you can look out onto the lit area as in hear a noise at night, stand next to the "kitchen" window or wherever and illuminate the scumbags trying to nick your gnomes! You can get flash and make this a two way switch with a second IP rated switch outside - it's getting dark and your on the patio - you don't have to traipse into the house to put the lights on. You can come off an existing lighting circuit or a power circuit if you fuse it down. You can have the garden lighting on it's own rcbo back at the board. Anything getting damp / wet won't affect the other lights etc. Have a look at this install manual for instance. Really you want to select your brick lights first. Some come glanded others you have to drill and gland to suit. You can daisy chain or feed a terminal box then individually feed each lamp from that. https://www.saxbylighting.com/UploadedAssets/InstructionManuals/67602_67603 coastal.pdf

Add some firings to the tops of the existing joists? That would rely on all the existing joists being out by the same amount.

Needing to extend one edge of the slab by 36mm and the other by 46mm before the falls start, added some surplus, powder coated steel strip. The falls will go from that edge. I'll just ram concrete under that bit.

Pretty sure the original Swarfega was actually a bit nasty. I've 3 one gallon tins of the green stuff in the shed still. Scored them years back when a then governor had us clear some arches out of a business he'd bought. Wish I'd taken a small lathe and dividing head now!

Granulated sugar and washing up liquid if desperate here! Tend to buy the gritty orange stuff from Costco. Best stuff I've ever used is made by Solopol and has ground walnut powder in it. https://www.safetysupplies.co.uk/trolleyed/products/solopol-hand-cleaner-250ml.htm

On the install manual you posted it says 2004. Had similar issues with a NewTeam pump shower. Ended up having to do a bit of re-tiling! I do wonder if generic, surface mount bar mixers are the way to go sometimes. Pretty much g'teed a replacement from varying makers.

CHave you picked the lights yet? Options: Loop in, loop out to the light itself - not always practical if a small light. Loop in, loop out to a suitable junction box. Last time I got involved in any garden lighting used these Pratley boxes at the base of the fence posts the lights were going on then ran up the post to each light fitting. Ezee_fit.pdf If you dig a trench (450mm good) and lay your own cable then be sure to photograph with a tape down the trench to prove the depth. Edit: Used Wago blocks inside the junction boxes. Could you (you could)...work it out so your lights are above a slab position. Put the jb slap bang centre under a slab along the edge. Run the swa from the jb up behind the wall where the light is going. Some say it's ok to go shallower with cable if under slabs. The downside is if someone later decides to drill for a rotary clothes line or bolt down some pergola brackets.

I think that shower model is of such a vintage that spares for now obsolete, replacement models that took the same name are even discontinued! https://www.showerdoc.com/search?ss=Triton+unichrome+tower+&pageID=1

This was my favourite shower: Heated by my home made solar thermal panel. Completely made from accumulated scrap. Something quite satisfying about a Summer's evening al fresco shower in the garden when it hasn't cost you a penny. Makes the cold beer taste better. It's about time I revisited the whole solar thermal thing......

Our bar mixer shower upstairs: Turn the shower on, hot and cold valves...if lucky it works. If not then barely a trickle. Take the handset off place it in the tray...try again. Turn on the cold and pump kicks in. Turn on the hot. If you're lucky you get a hot, decent shower. If not.....unscrew the shower hose from the bar mixer. Turn on the cold valve, pump kicks in. Turn on the hot. It might work! If not...Place thumb over outlet and sort of press, release, press, release with your thumb. If lucky it'll eventually come out hot. Then fight to get the hose screwed back on.

I can't tell from the pic on my phone what your windows are, guessing ali or upvc. I feel your pain ref the gaps. My place has some retro fitted upvc 2G ones but the gaps left by the fitters are horrific. I only found out how bad when I had to remove the glued on upvc trim in the bathroom. They used no foam etc just the frame fixings. Guessing the rest of the windows of that make here are the same. Expanding foam is what I've used here to fill the gap in the above photo. I have recently fitted my first couple of upvc window to replace old wooden windows. The first one I used foam but on the second I used comriband which I think is perhaps better.

Not knocking the technical prowess and thought gone into it but that looks f****** 'orrible! Had the woman no taste? Did she have you do the ducks on the wall as well?

Greetings. Near Sevenoaks here. I used to work a bit in Croydon and (shudders) the Roundshaw Estate, Wallington. Best thing was the road home if the van was still in one piece! You're in the best place for advice here.

Like they do when engraving i.e. not going all the way through! Shouldn't such a line be properly broken to give falls in two planes? Bit worried about my proposed layout that the clouded intersection is going to give rise to a rather sharp, pointy tile that's also weak: (The b&w grid in the background is just something from the youngest's transposition cypher homework NOT mosaics! )

@Nickfromwales, when you have your tiles water jet cut do you do a CAD drawing or a fag packet sketch and someone else draws it up as a DXF etc? Is it that the tile has to be positioned on the cutting bed to a set datum point as in can they cut to say a line drawn on the tile? Going back to my days doing drawings for the "magic eye" cutter!