Onoff

Grab handles a must?

Is this a floating slab new build, a refurb, what? No way you can get more insulation in? I said only the other day (yet again ?) @Jeremy Harris has 300mm of EPS under his slab and still estimated 8% heat loss downward!

Lots of people on here with sand blinding with seemingly no issues (including me). Sharp sand in my case. Agree with having the concrete above the insulation. I just have dead level concrete above my insulation so no screed. UFH pipe about 1/3 of the way up in 100mm concrete. Tiles straight onto the concrete. Nice big heat store is the idea.

Yeah, alright Dave! ?

I've read/heard of a few people swearing blind that their "powerlink" adapter (I use the term generically), "won't work over the steel wire armoured". Neighbour is one of them in fact. I'd guess his garage is 50m from the house, maybe more. No idea how his SWA is run. Not sure if they just work over just L & N? Thinking if maybe they're stopping the earth short of the garage/summer house/shed and rodding locally. Could just be dodgy connections I guess...

I thought I'd sign up...not at those prices! What does "fully refundable" mean?

Boil a kettle and watch the steam, it goes UP aka warm, moist air rises. I would seriously wipe this thread from the face of the Earth. Wiping it from memory might be harder.

You've a collection of interconnected "boxes", your rooms. Some ARE damper than others, like the old ones at the bottom where you say you have rising damp. All the boxes, to different degrees are "air leaky" (yes, even the new rooms). Those leaky points work both ways. They'll let draughts in, they'll let heated air out. So the wind blows against the outside of the house. It forces it's way in those little leaky points in the building fabric, around doors, windows, mortar joints, ceiling roses, keyholes even. That incoming draught(s) will force all that warm 'ish, moisture laden air around your house. It'll try and get out but hang on, you've a decent, new, pretty well sealed up room upstairs. That warm, moist air can't get out. It'll get absorbed by some surfaces like paper and clothes. On hard surfaces you may well see it. On hard, comparatively cold surfaces, like your frames you WILL see it. I think you said you don't get the issue in the new downstairs workshop? A combination maybe of the materials in there soaking up any moisture, the fact that the room is on the ground floor and not really subject to rising, warm, moist air.

Get zero condensation on the inside of my 2G bathroom window. That's because inside and outside temperatures are near equal I guess!

My downstairs Bedroom, Hall and Dining Room are all suspended floors over dirt. The lounge is a weird suspended floor construction above a "concrete" floor (who knows how thick!). They'll all be coming up and get the hardcore, insulation and UFH in slab treatment. D'stairs Bathroom already has had this treatment with UFH loop in place (but going nowhere at the mo). Stairs room is concrete, that's coming up for the dig down / build back up treatment. The UFH manifold will sit under the stairs and all UFH pipes go off from there. I'll be putting in at least 150mm PIR + 25mm EPS. Kitchen and Utility are concrete but way too high.....tba! ? The one thing that always sticks in my mind is @Jeremy Harris saying even with his super insulated house sitting in 300mm of EPS, he estimated his heat losses to the ground as 8% I think it was. That really puts things into perspective! @oranjeboom in here dug his whole ground floor up and built it back up. All I need to complete mine is money and time!

What's the wall make up and cavity width?

Do you think it would improve his diction and grammar? Gotta love a euphemism! ?

I'm sure a clever bloke could do the maths ? Anyway it's 200mm dia, has a 3 speed motor with a "0.18m3/s nominal flow rate". Might do as a positive ventilation fan for Zoot!

Scored from work for nowt. Thrown out as a bit of random plastic was rattling around inside!

I've got this:

So this is a blower rigged to blow air into the house, set in a sealed door or window aperture? The idea being it "pressurises" the internal space? Silly question maybe but how do you see/feel the draught? Wet finger, bit of paper to blow in the "breeze"?

She has in fact seen Peter's house. Still doesn't get the no pain, no gain thing. Until she lets me dig the floor up in the adjacent room it will continue to be effing cold in there. Or she can move the tonne of crap in the loft (all hers) and I'll sort the body dryer.

@joe90, did your neighbour buy any compound for his roof?

I did! Seen it "snap" on site before...

Ta. Do you reckon it's worth having a spare pump sitting in a drawer ready to go? I did replace this one years ago but that long I can't remember exactly why/what. Something to do with it sticking and a small Woodruff type key maybe but it's all a bit vague!

Hell no, density and thickness. Some is like Weetabix and only really fit for use as cover boards when shipping the good stuff! My lounge floor is made from similar, not proper T&G boards. Tbh I'd say it's an own brand, budget Weetabix. (A fat bloke I know went through it once ? ). Edit: Twice...

Got a length of 3-core, 2.5mm SWA down the circa 13m of 60mm smooth bore duct along with some screened, duct grade Cat-5e plus a random, screened 4-core flex for luck. Might drag it all out and put the two small ones in their own 20mm ducts. Pita is the gate end 32mm corrugated I've got going up inside my brick pillars. SWA is just so stiff in this cold. Printed a wee ball to go in the end and act as a guide.

It's in after clearing the snow & unfreezing the padlock on the tank! Out of interest why is a "capful of 2-stroke or a gallon of diesel" better than "engine oil"?

It's good for the Compriband.

Off up the garden in the snow, to do it right now. I may be some time...