Onoff

Out of interest are your original doors "haunched"? That is the braces "haunch" into the ledges like this: Just a door I knocked up from literally scrap for the shed.

Agreed. Call any wonky bit character! I forget are you painting the door?

The other limitation is you might need Building Regulations approval!

Tiger seal is good to go on damp/wet surfaces as it's specifically moisture displacing e.g when seam sealing cars. (So is CT1 btw).

I'm NOT saying do so at all but a little embellishment you can make with these doors is to run a router around the edges of the ledges and braces. Rounds the edge over and saves you catching your arm, hip etc as you brush by.

All along I could have sworn the hinges were going the side the lock is! ?

???

This is typical of I stud:

What's the make up you're saying there then, think he wants pb both sides? Are you meaning 9.5+50+9.5 = "70"

Sod the lot of you, I'm going to sulk in my think tank! ?

My bathroom is a country mile from the hot water cylinder so taps take an age to get hot. I think I've missed the boat to include a pumped return on the sink hot? Up in the loft I've this (unconnected one is now mains cold to the sink). Hot comes from the cylinder many metres away: Drops down, hidden in the wall, (no joints) to this: The WC is currently mains fed. If I'm reading this thread right, I could jump that instead into the hot. Flushing would pull a slug of water in the hot pipe through. Thus when you turn the sink on you've less time to wait for it to become hot? That initial "cold" slug you pull through to flush the WC would otherwise be wasted running the sink until it gets hot. The kids are always complaining the sink is cold when they wash their hands. This might encourage them to actually flush the loo!

I thing it's building regs Part B & E that might apply so fire safety and sound insulation. It's an unusual one you have there I think! @nod, any super thin stud partition systems he could use?

Talk about what lies beneath, you ain't fussy are you? Give as a shout if you want my plumber to come and tidy it up! Saying that I'll swap my supper neat, HIDDEN plumbing for your nice straight tiling with no shadow lines, you can see mine in the dark! ?

No ideas. Do you have a BC involved?

Is the finish on this 40mm board important? You can get 40mm thick fire board. Google "40mm fire board". Or make a sandwich of 12.5mm fire resistant plasterboard + 18 mm of ply then another 12.5mm of maybe moisture resistant plasterboard on the bathroom side? 43mm in total.

Still working on the section for my garden room:

I would expect the bearer to be slightly inboard of the outside face of the wall. The bottom of the wall wants some sort of lip down over the edge of the bearer. Any timber you don't want to get wet needs to be at least 150mm above the surrounding ground level.

Walk into bathroom...

Kinky, need you ask?

Not knocking the job by any means, it looks first class.

See the bit at the very top that goes over the ridge and (in this case) is nailed down. It "laps" over the bit underneath it. Wind driven rain can get up that joint:

Dehumidifier?

Reassuringly expensive! ? One of those products that just does what it says on the tin. A mate bought a lot of Spax decking screws direct from Germany albeit pre Brexit. Said they were miles cheaper than in the UK even factoring in shipping: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de/en/ (Pity his deck warped to Hell where he didn't leave any expansion gaps... )

That's the clever bit with the Spax screw design. It goes through the floor board creating a clearance for the thinner, plain shank. The threaded section under the head then bites in and pulls down the board.

It stinks a bit but it really has stayed white for me. A favoured trick on here is to do the sealing around a shower tray etc with clear CT1, working it into whatever gap. Then take of the excess with a baby wipe. You go over this when set with a silicone of your choice which you periodically replace if it gets grubby.