Onoff

I've used Acrypol, Cromapol, Flexacryl. You can get a 5kg of Sealacryl online for about £30. Spent a good few hundred quid over the years. One side of the dormer is just about holding, the other side is shot! I keep putting off doing it properly as I'd like to extend the dormers by a few feet either side. It'll work for a while. Best results I've had when I've not just brushed off the debris but used a cleaner. Think I used No Nonsense Degreaser last time.

The ultimate being to grow your own houses like the Yilanè! (Harry Harrison's Eden series).

That's going to be my new mantra. At the end of the day nobody cares how neat it is as long it works and if a paying job as long as they can invoice it. Better to do 10 sh!t looking jobs like that than one neat and tidy one. So what if the next person who looks at it thinks "What c**t did this?" He'll be the one remembered as taking an age to sort the problem not the one who did the job in record time. Better still if you can save on materials like cable ties and bootlace ferrules. Even better if the job then fails due to a dodgy connection, the customer will pay once again...and again. It's all about the coin ?

Had that with a Everbulid can of foam from Toolstation. Picked the gun up by the handle and the can snapped off. Hence I don't use that foam anymore!

Oh and watch White Gold on Netflix for how not to do it! ?

I've fitted 2 new windows and 2 s/hand uPVC doors myself in the last couple of years. I think the best window "fit" for draughts and noise was the one using Illbruck (Compriband by another make) tape AND then LOW expansion foam. The other window and 2 doors were just foamed. (Got to redo one door sometime as I rushed it and it's pi$$ed). I'd keep your doors / windows shut whilst the foam sets, even if low expansion.

Some good info here albeit they're trying to shut the door after the horse has bolted!

How about a: Doepke 80-2/0.10.DFS2.F Type F, 80A, 100mA, 10ms delay etc See page 11: rcds.pdf

I was going to suggest Type F but ESR don't appear to do one. So you want a time delay, 100mA, Type F...

They do do an A type, part number RCD2/A-80100 "Type A 2-Pole RCD - 80A 100mA". Would that be a better bet if you want to keep to the same make?

I wonder how well they sealed your frames i.e. the gap between the frame and wall or whether they just slapped them in with bloody great gaps and no spray foam or expanding tape in there. Sadly more common than not that they do this. What's the detail like outside the doors/window? Have they siliconed where the roughcast render meets the window frame?

Try some foam gun cleaner maybe, it's acetone I think. Might soften it.

What model RCD is it out of interest?

Have you tried BT1 yet? EDIT: Bodger using his finger!

I've mulled building an L shaped garden room painted/clad to LOOK like upcycled shipping containers.

At the ripe old age of 5* I'm a relative newbie to painting having actively managed to avoid and delegate to SWMBO over the years. The nearest I ever got to painting was applying creosote, Sadolin and other assorted wood finishes and oils. This forum put me onto Leyland Super Leytex as a first coat(s) on new plaster followed by Dulux Diamond Matt. The whole experience was dare I say pleasurable and imho looks great.

So is cheese in a tube, bear in mind who I'm trying to explain it to! Be my guest in trying to get it across! ?

When it pools on the floor does it come in through the damp patch in the picture and run down, or does it come in at the base of the wall? No guttering...so is there water running down the outside of the wall (from the roof) when it rains?

What's going on outside then, ground too high, water splashing up, gutter running down? What type of Ford is it then?

Try again...replace the word fluid with "air". This diagram is very conceptual but valid. Cold air gets drawn in from the outside (on the left). Your warm, moist, stinky air gets drawn from inside the house where it heats up the pipe carrying the incoming cold air. It's warmth spent in heating the pipe up, it exits outside the house as cold, stinky air:

Jimmy Darling!

Shouldn't need a spanner. Finger tight. Only need a spanner for the long nut on the bolt that comes down.

You'll be begging to jump! ?

Fairs fair and all that. Put the deck lower then complain about the neighbours conservatory.

With your cabinet building skills and low budget you could even build you own MVHR unit! https://www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/DIYHRV/DIYHRV.htm