Onoff

That from the building reg guides in kitchens.

Been here 20 years and I changed the pump once in that time. Can't remember when. Going to put back together in a mo. Will report back.

No, because that would infringe copyright ? (Check your Inbox in a couple of minutes).

When I first met SWMBO she'd extended her ghetto blaster's 2-core mains lead by "splicing" another into it, twisting the wires together and "insulating" them with Sellotape. She'd balance the stereo on the edge of the bath. With hindsight I should have kept quiet...

701.512.3 "... socket-outlets are prohibited within a distance of 3m horizontally from the boundary of zone 1" That's from the 2018 big blue book. I don't have any amendments.

The electrician was doing his job! ?

Some dry, powdery rust in there, quite a bit in fact. No squealing when it runs. I've had the fan cover off and it turns as smooth as. Ditto if I stick my finger down where the pump engages. The pump mind was as stiff as to turn! I've brushed all the crap out, flushed the burner recess and pump bearing out with penetrating oil, then stood the pump on end and filled the bearing with oil. Pump seems to turn pretty freely now. Hopefully this'll give me a bit of a reprieve. Fingers crossed. Coffee time while that oil soaks in. Why is it there's never a biscuit when I want one?

Lock out last night and it wouldn't reset. Plan this morning is to take the pump off initially and have a look. I've got the new pump but have no way of setting the pressure to the 8 bar required. I've ordered one of these gauges from BES in the link above: The bumpf says it's a bottom entry thread, 1/8" BSP. I'm hoping that applies to the male bit sticking out on the brass adaptor in the picture above. In the Warmflow handbook, the long 80mm ish, hex connector (part No.3008876) is referred to as "Pressure Gauge". In reality it's where the pressure gauge attaches. Photos below taken from random eBay listings for this part. It looks like the grub screw where the pump attaches might be 1/8" BSP. Vernier at the ready for when I take it off. I may need an adapter I guess. Speaking with BiL and he reckons the bearings in RDB burners can dry out but are easy enough to change. Suggested I remove the pump then spin the fan by hand to feel if it runs smooth. On refitting the pump he suggested I lubricate the pump shaft with oil to try and get some in the bearings. If it's dry bearings maybe that'll help and I can refit the old one until I get the gauge. I'm 2 cups of coffee, 2 toast and 2 paracetamol down. Just waiting for the pills to kick in before I start. Then it's off to the garage to get some lubricating oil. I've a 3kW fan heater running in the lounge and a panel heater taking the chill off in the boiler room. ?

Bless them.

Quite serious. I'll put a score in towards his piv fund. Intentionally unkind btw.

As a "quick fix" to get the ST panels up and running I did think of building a timber pergola outside these sliding doors. It'd mean I could get the ST up and running. Also be handy for access when and if I change to a gable.

Where's the fun in that when I can spend years redressing other people's cock ups and considering workarounds before I even start something here? ?

I'll openly admit to knowing jack about PV. The kit, inverters, how it connects etc. In fact I've actively avoided learning about it. Luckily there were no question on it in the 18th ?

Sorry, to do what? I'd like to get rid of the incoming overhead...

Looks really smart btw ?

Is that the iPad in some sort of an IP rated enclosure? Tbh I'd have jammed it behind the bog to take the gap up!

? There's a dodgy overhead SWA from the corner of the house to the garage on a wire catenary at the mo. See lower left. That'll get replaced soonish I hope by a trenched in duct as I need to get the gate intercom and CCTV to the house too. A bit of a convoluted route up the drive, through the garage, down into a trench then into the house. Getting an underground supply would be a pita and cost a few £££££. The pole we're currently off of is on the neighbours land the other side of his block paved drive. He's also got lots of underground cabling. With hindsight I could have perhaps got him to put a duct in for me years ago. Never mind. The other pole is across the road. Maybe get a pole put on my land?

Looking for suggestions should finances ever permit! My SW facing, nom 45deg roof is I imagine ideal for either PV or solar thermal. However I'd like to change this hip end to a gable. That I guess loses that lovely big area for panels. If it wasn't for the hip/gable possibility I'd have already fitted the x3 ST panels I have. (These are the panels that got damaged in storage and now need repairing). Btw I know the collective view here about solar thermal. It's the polar opposite of people I know locally and on the Navitron forum. "Free hot water from April to October" as one using it for 15 years put it sounds good to me. Along with minimal servicing and no breakages. Thinking about it I've also got the garage roof, again with a SW facing roof: This is the SW facing garage roof (taken from the neighbour's front garden): Thinking I could put panels on the garage roof? Would it then be an idea to have the cu in the garage and feed the house from there? At the mo the mains supply comes in overhead from a pole North of the house in the 3rd picture above to the NW corner of the house. Looking to the future then I guess an EV charge point(s) will be needed and located on the garage. An underground power supply would be preferable. Just looking for some other opinions. (Other than knock down / rebuild ?)

Reading back it looks like I put 20 odd turns of tape both ends of the nipple then wound it in with the hex key. The hex allows you the "grunt" to wind it in. I'd say without the hex then liquid will be better. Will you aim to wind the brass in using two nuts on the end until it bottoms out? You have the nuts?

I think I might have "glued" my brass nipple into the boss with liquid PTFE? I'm off to read my thread...I may be some time...

A picture of the bits I started with: As it was going to be hidden in the wall "forever" I changed the bib tap connector to a solder type. Ditched the random m/f bit too between nipple and bib in the above pic. My proudest moment: Would this get you out of trouble (no hex mind). A local plumbers merchant might stock the hex type: https://www.toolstation.com/brass-shower-arm-connector/p91988 Don't know if the brass bit in this would have a hex? https://www.screwfix.com/p/wall-union-elbow-chrome-75mm/903fh

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Ah! Hence the phrase "battered sausage"!

Best chat up line is it?

Can you believe I'm actually ready to do this? Cut the brass down and made a lovely job: It fits in a treat. Just happened to have saved an offcut of 14mm Allen key years back: Now to fit this: It fits in just below the tile surface as per instruction: The intent is to ditch the rubber washer it came with and PTFE both ends of the brass: So do I put 22-25 turns of PTFE BOTH ends of the thread, screw in with the Allen key then wind in the chrome bit until plumb and make sure I don't turn it back? Then pump full of CT1, push chrome ring against the tile and baby wipe off? Quote Edit Nickfromwales 3,072 Posted January 21, 2019