Onoff

I'll take it! Just think of the projects I could start...

Might as well lock the thread then?

The truth hurts often hurts. None of your problems are insurmountable. Some of the solutions will cost or necessitate some short term discomfort on your part like running overnight and putting up with the noise, buying or hiring a dehumidifier and so on. Solutions cost invariably, whether you go the DIY route and just pay for materials (assuming you have the time) or whether you pay A N Other to fix it, saving your time but upping the cost. If you're unable or unwilling to try these things then eventually people will tire of it and desert the thread. Don't worry though, they'll not be able to resist coming back, (often sooner than they want). It's a pity the burning of bridges is metaphorical, that'd pump some good quality heat into the place and drive that nasty damp away! ?

Still trying to shift that glazing? ?

Sort of a strong meaty smell I always think.....

Flies in a few days are a good tell tale it's a dead mouse!

Yep, she's a good deal bigger now mind.

Goes to the lowest point, know anyone with an underground house?

Microclimate? Think you're getting mixed up with the Play For Today, Z For Zachariah! Damp valley, everything goes green? This is the road at the bottom of my drive, an old seasonal water course:

Where does the vcl go in that make up and how do you fix down through the "sandwich" to the joists, bfo special screws?

Have you bled your radiators lately (ever?) using a radiator key?

My thoughts exactly, I think we could see the forum's first perfect match! ?

Ah! So which is your native language?

Are you sure this "leak" isn't just the condensate pipe from the ASHP doing it's thing and working normally? This needs to be taken to a soakaway or drain.

The sand won't sink. If it does there's going to be and awful lot of people's slabs on here sinking! ?

If the sand is under the DPM won't it remain "damp" thus less likely to flow?

People often use Type 1 for instance which is I think 40mm to dust. That stops the sharp sand sinking through. I made own Type 1/2 by grading assorted hardcore through a 40mm mesh (proper mission). I then slung assorted half bags of cement, plaster, assorted sands and ballast etc on top, as much to get rid of it as anything else. The ref spots were wooden pegs to height. Looked lovely when it was done!

See the last photo? That far. Bored now as SWMBO's not letting me dig the stairs room up. I'm retreating to the garage every evening now in protest and having a good shift around / tidy. Waiting on some duct rated Cat-5e at the mo for the weekend's fun running power and comms to the gate. Hopefully not too cold that the SWA sheath breaks! ? Why finish one project when you can flit between many!

Probably all the metal and plastic in an MVHR unit! ?

Screeding rails are used to get things "dead flat" their suggesting of levelled poles imo is bang on. Level to the poles the infill when you take them out. I levelled the sand blind in just one room using just a long level as a drag board, the subsequent eps/pir layers had a bit of "bounce" in them. I even laid my eps and went over it with the 5kN Evolution whacker plate. My eventual wet concrete floor was put in using screed rails so it all came right in the end.

I slung one brand over another with no apparent reaction. One might have been a bit stiffer to spread but I can't remember which one. They all go on like hairy paint (the fibres) then it "settles".

Currently the shot side has a length of DPM on with sandbags.....it don't half flap and bang when it's windy! There's more bags up there now.

All the names I quoted work when the roof is really damp/wet. They were all much the same to apply. Broom to spread, bucket with a bin liner in for the broom when you're done. I'd go for this, cheapest I can find for 5kg in eBay: https://bond-it.co.uk/waterproofing/sealacryl/