Onoff

All of it (1L?)

Evening, a lock out just now. Changed the filter I said I was going to do in November, it was minging! All firing up again but I was wondering about the adding some lubricating oil trick. You say "ash free" 2 stroke, and "a cupful". Say 500ml? Do I just sling this in the tank or mix with some heating oil first? Down to about 700L/160gal. This any good? (Bought for the Puch Maxi that came with the house...another project! ?). Cheers

My downlights in the bathroom are cool white which we both prefer. I think though that's the reason it's so cold in there... ?

Where do you think that damp air goes then? Some of it gets carried by (relatively) warm air upward to your nice new, sealed (relatively speaking) room where you add to it exhaling etc. No concern? I think you'll find it is!

Is that West Country for "mews"?

So have you yet tried bleeding the rads?

https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/tct-circular-saw-blades/reduction-rings

Why not stain the ply boards and just fit plastic T pieces at the joins, for example: https://www.tubewaysales.com/cat/plastic-board-and-panel-profiles/plastic-t-section/ Can look quite good, say grey stain, black trim or a funky contrasting colour to match your classic! Tbh though I'd think very carefully having ply in a working garage, it'll go up like a torch in a fire.

It's amazing how in some commercial buildings a tenant will phone the help desk. The duty engineer says "I'll put that up 2degC, doing it as we speak, I'll phone you in half an hour". Half hour later he phones back and the tenant thanks him, much warmer etc. Truly impressive as he hasn't even touched the BMS computer to do it ?

Ditto ?

? Weird. As per my photo the spans were down to 18" from 3' originally. You might be half right on the sagging/Summer thing. It was a haven for cats and foxes taking a siesta up there. Maybe they were really heavy?

Sad when good materials are poorly applied!

is that where the phrase "open cheque" comes from?

I think the present there is pretty despicable too!

I think you mean lackeys as in Bristol, home of the slave trade!

I seem to recall it was @jamiehamy wanted to go off piste with some obscure glass fronted, sparkly, obscure name stuff from AliExpress or similar and his electrician said he wouldn't fit them or something...

Best I can find on the "small toggle" front but you can't change the background:

Maybe a rear view on a single USB faceplate?

You don't fancy something heavy on the Swarovski crystals? https://www.decswitch.com/switches-and-sockets/swarovski-crystal-switches-and-sockets.html

Varilight Freestyle let you change the socket "background" to suit.....you could use £50 notes, restraining orders or whatever.

Finally found the plan I started of the house and existing CH pipe run. Oil boiler is bottom right. Down to 4 different floor levels from 5 originally! ? Under the stairs seems the best place for the UFH manifold imho. 7 different floor make ups at the moment. I took out the single pipe CH that skirted the D'stairs Bathroom. It now runs across the stairs room, right to left, then up the Hall where it reconnects behind the cloak WC. Drawing needs work! Done originally in Drafsight so I need to redo in AutoCAD if I want to start extruding walls up etc to make a model:

Those sheets @ProDave referred to: https://www.wickes.co.uk/how-to-guides/garden-landscaping/fit-corrugated-sheets

Was the batten the width of where the red arrow is? The bit your finger is on is the factory edge, I think of the 1m wide roll piece used on the apex? There should be adhesive under that bit you're holding up. Where the nails are the adhesive appears to have been applied on top of the green mineral and maybe under the batten? Looks to me like it's done wrong. How far up, does the bit with the nails in poke up under the bit you're lifting up? A shed roof btw should really have a minimum of two separate layers of felt. One underneath then the green mineral impregnated "cap" sheet you have there. How many layers have you got? If you must go "one layer" there's a proper way if doing it. This from IKO (one of the big felt producers) for instance. It's good to know to help diagnose where yours is leaking: You don't necessarily need wooden strips if done correctly. They can rot and in fact hold water, forcing it back under a poor lap. Not got any on my 2 layered shed roof. My joins are stuck like sh!t to a blanket. Have to be careful (good) to avoid adhesive dribbles. I just wipe and brush in the mineral "dust" onto any dribble. North facing elevation: (I'll finish it one day! ?) Battens can in fact be run up the slope and can look quite good. My experience of the black, bitumen impregnated roof sheets @ProDave refers to was dire. I reroofed a, shallow pitch, concrete section garage with them (from Wickes). I observed the support spacing requirements by adding in extra angle irons to match the originals. In between the supports the sheets just sunk in like washing up bowl size depressions then split. Poor picture of the roof. (Ruined a Ford Capri I had stored in there. Salvageable but loads more work than when it went in ? ). I'd say a one off/bad batch but similar happend to My BiL. In both cases there was no supporting boards underneath I might add but the bumpf on the corrugated sheets said you didn't need it. Imho I reckon you'd be better with a one piece sheet of EPDM and the proper edge trims. I'll pm you the proper, old school instructions for felting a shed, give me a while.

What about a black, sprung/pneumatic door stop, affixed to the cupboard or door. For example: https://www.sdslondon.co.uk/suite-914-matt-black-stainless-door-handles/skirting-door-stop-80mm-1.html?

What way up is it, is the hammer "down slope"? Like this: