Onoff

If the sand is under the DPM won't it remain "damp" thus less likely to flow?

People often use Type 1 for instance which is I think 40mm to dust. That stops the sharp sand sinking through. I made own Type 1/2 by grading assorted hardcore through a 40mm mesh (proper mission). I then slung assorted half bags of cement, plaster, assorted sands and ballast etc on top, as much to get rid of it as anything else. The ref spots were wooden pegs to height. Looked lovely when it was done!

See the last photo? That far. Bored now as SWMBO's not letting me dig the stairs room up. I'm retreating to the garage every evening now in protest and having a good shift around / tidy. Waiting on some duct rated Cat-5e at the mo for the weekend's fun running power and comms to the gate. Hopefully not too cold that the SWA sheath breaks! ? Why finish one project when you can flit between many!

Probably all the metal and plastic in an MVHR unit! ?

Screeding rails are used to get things "dead flat" their suggesting of levelled poles imo is bang on. Level to the poles the infill when you take them out. I levelled the sand blind in just one room using just a long level as a drag board, the subsequent eps/pir layers had a bit of "bounce" in them. I even laid my eps and went over it with the 5kN Evolution whacker plate. My eventual wet concrete floor was put in using screed rails so it all came right in the end.

I slung one brand over another with no apparent reaction. One might have been a bit stiffer to spread but I can't remember which one. They all go on like hairy paint (the fibres) then it "settles".

Currently the shot side has a length of DPM on with sandbags.....it don't half flap and bang when it's windy! There's more bags up there now.

All the names I quoted work when the roof is really damp/wet. They were all much the same to apply. Broom to spread, bucket with a bin liner in for the broom when you're done. I'd go for this, cheapest I can find for 5kg in eBay: https://bond-it.co.uk/waterproofing/sealacryl/

I've used Acrypol, Cromapol, Flexacryl. You can get a 5kg of Sealacryl online for about £30. Spent a good few hundred quid over the years. One side of the dormer is just about holding, the other side is shot! I keep putting off doing it properly as I'd like to extend the dormers by a few feet either side. It'll work for a while. Best results I've had when I've not just brushed off the debris but used a cleaner. Think I used No Nonsense Degreaser last time.

The ultimate being to grow your own houses like the Yilanè! (Harry Harrison's Eden series).

That's going to be my new mantra. At the end of the day nobody cares how neat it is as long it works and if a paying job as long as they can invoice it. Better to do 10 sh!t looking jobs like that than one neat and tidy one. So what if the next person who looks at it thinks "What c**t did this?" He'll be the one remembered as taking an age to sort the problem not the one who did the job in record time. Better still if you can save on materials like cable ties and bootlace ferrules. Even better if the job then fails due to a dodgy connection, the customer will pay once again...and again. It's all about the coin ?

Had that with a Everbulid can of foam from Toolstation. Picked the gun up by the handle and the can snapped off. Hence I don't use that foam anymore!

Oh and watch White Gold on Netflix for how not to do it! ?

I've fitted 2 new windows and 2 s/hand uPVC doors myself in the last couple of years. I think the best window "fit" for draughts and noise was the one using Illbruck (Compriband by another make) tape AND then LOW expansion foam. The other window and 2 doors were just foamed. (Got to redo one door sometime as I rushed it and it's pi$$ed). I'd keep your doors / windows shut whilst the foam sets, even if low expansion.

Some good info here albeit they're trying to shut the door after the horse has bolted!

How about a: Doepke 80-2/0.10.DFS2.F Type F, 80A, 100mA, 10ms delay etc See page 11: rcds.pdf

I was going to suggest Type F but ESR don't appear to do one. So you want a time delay, 100mA, Type F...

They do do an A type, part number RCD2/A-80100 "Type A 2-Pole RCD - 80A 100mA". Would that be a better bet if you want to keep to the same make?

I wonder how well they sealed your frames i.e. the gap between the frame and wall or whether they just slapped them in with bloody great gaps and no spray foam or expanding tape in there. Sadly more common than not that they do this. What's the detail like outside the doors/window? Have they siliconed where the roughcast render meets the window frame?

Try some foam gun cleaner maybe, it's acetone I think. Might soften it.

What model RCD is it out of interest?

Have you tried BT1 yet? EDIT: Bodger using his finger!

I've mulled building an L shaped garden room painted/clad to LOOK like upcycled shipping containers.

At the ripe old age of 5* I'm a relative newbie to painting having actively managed to avoid and delegate to SWMBO over the years. The nearest I ever got to painting was applying creosote, Sadolin and other assorted wood finishes and oils. This forum put me onto Leyland Super Leytex as a first coat(s) on new plaster followed by Dulux Diamond Matt. The whole experience was dare I say pleasurable and imho looks great.

So is cheese in a tube, bear in mind who I'm trying to explain it to! Be my guest in trying to get it across! ?