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joe90

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Everything posted by joe90

  1. joe90
    Great minds think alike ?, what do you mean by on timers from the main control box?. I was thinking of using timers/programmers within the bathrooms so a push of the override button got it done. Switch the panel heater on at the socket when it's needed. I was thinking it would be difficult to presume/plan for a cold snap.?
  2. joe90
    I am not having full UFH upstairs just electric UFH in the two bathrooms with electric towel radiators probably timed for E7 end of period ( 5 to 6 am?) with manual overrun if needed. I am banking on a couple of cheap panel radiators for the odd week of very low temps. We are in mild Devon.
  3. joe90
    I had to do this and I just rang the council guy that looked after ecology for sites. Mine was to provide root protection for existing trees, he initially told me to get someone qualified to write it for me but when I proposed simply erecting sheep fencing on substantial wooden posts all to 1meter high and 1meter from the hedges he agreed that this would suffice. As it would be him that had to agree what I sent in he could not really argue, it worked, didn't cost me a bean.
  4. joe90
    TDR, ( too damn right) ?
  5. joe90
    I bet you don't sleep tonight, you will be like a 10 year old on Christmas Eve. Enjoy!
  6. joe90
    Wow, and i thought I took a long time to get started, well done mate, it puts a big grin on your face doesn't it? The good thing about the long wait is you have had plenty of time to plan everything and some of my items have changed full circle during the last couple of years. Congratulations ?
  7. joe90
    When building my workbench in my new workshop I had to decide on front or rear sockets and decided on rear sockets so that after using a drill or whatever I could push it to the back of the bench still plugged in without the lead trailing over the bench. I did however install a socket in the kickplate of the bench next to the floor in case I wanted tools in the centre of the workshop, I.e. Sawbench as leads over the bench then over the floor are just a trip hazard.
  8. joe90
    Conversely my main contractor noticed my site signs and said they didn't usually bother out in the sticks , I volunteered the use of my caravan for loo, washing and tea facilities and the guys on site were impressed and not used to such luxury!
  9. joe90
    Thanks Nick, I wanted the inline heater as belt and braces in case temps were a bit low or Christmas with the family caused depletion, perhaps I could just leave room for it and plumb it in afterwards if needed. With regard PV because of the low fits ( and the fact I hate the look of them especially on a " pretty cottage") we decided against it at the moment ( but cables are planned to be installed to future proof it). Can you recommend a supplier and do you think long pipes sticking through lots of insulation is a good idea.?
  10. joe90
    Thanks guys, regarding the immersion I guess I could put a large "tube" through the insulation with a plug of insulation to gain access and uprated cable within the insulation. Do I need to specify type/size of coil, plate heat exchanger???
  11. joe90
    Dear all, planning my DHW strategy and would appreciate recommendations for a pressurised ( after comments from crofters thread) DHW tank. It will be 200 to 300 litres, this for two people but with backup from an inline water heater when guests stay, we will have one bath ( our en suite only occasional use) and two showers ( one occasional use, guests). I will provide my own insulation in that I propose to build an airing cupboard with at least 150mm of insulation all round it. Probably no immersion ( they are a problem if surrounded in insulation are they not?) . Heat source is an ASHP with modulating in line heater to cope with guests/ running short. I was thinking of a tank with long pipes sticking out so they protrude through the deep insulation into the cupboard for plumbing into the system. i hope that makes sense?, all comments gratefully received.
  12. joe90
    I agree with all the above and I too am building to " passive house principles " ( I chose those words carefully) as with my location and weather patterns I believe my insulation levels to be adequate. Like Tony I am building in brick and block and not applying rocket science to make it airtight and fit for purpose. i thought I was a bit anal about build quality and have wondered if my builder would not be on board but I could not be more wrong, they are very much on board and I cannot fault a thing they have done, sometimes without me asking because I took the time to explain my requirement before they even quoted. I do think I am very lucky with my builder.
  13. joe90
    Thanks Jeremy, I found these on EBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Circular-Stainless-Steel-Air-Vent-Grille-Covers-High-Quality-Ventilation-Grilles-/131165426150?var=430378594662&hash=item1e8a1191e6:m:m7BE1CJNES6LS-xIMFGBbMQ as I don't need bullnose, what do you think?
  14. joe90
    With regard the MVHR duct to outside air, is there a special duct for this purpose. I have to get my duct in whilst building the roof/wall junction to make sure it's airtight. I have found a supplier of aluminium flexible ducts of various sizes near where I live and don't want to install something that's not fit for purpose. Also the vents will be fixed to the horizontal barge board, is there a particular type of terminal that is best for this?.
  15. joe90
    I too have saved it to input my own data and present to the BCO. Planning my own MVHR is next and like Jeremy want to DIY as much as possible.
  16. joe90
    Yes mate, your dead right ( ST has visited my site and seen the clay and very high water table I have to deal with). On a positive note, the French drains around the builds are working well.?
  17. joe90
    I have a radon barrier for my house but none specified for the garage, just a slight slope to the door ( I guess for car fluids or heavy vapour to run out).
  18. joe90
    I travel from Bristol to Devon on a very regular basis so am wiling to volunteer for my bit of the country. I fancy a visit to the highlands but frankly I am way too busy to consider that for a while.
  19. joe90
    Not sure we will still be able to claim VAT back from the EU after the brexit negotiations but buying anything from the US should be ok thanks to our mate Donald Chump. i,ll get my coat.
  20. joe90
    With a new build I am fortunate that I can select a tank for the cupboard to get max insulation all round, over insulating an immersion I know to be a problem so probably won't have one just an inline heater if the tank runs out. Sorry crofter for diverting your thread, more on my build to come.........
  21. joe90
    ST, it was your tank insulation and reduction of losses compared to the sunamp unit that convinced me to stick with a well insulated DHW tank in my build. Watch out now for threads from me about all the other nuts and bolts of my build ?
  22. joe90
    Is the loss with a header tank the vent pipe only?, is it possible to lengthen it ( serpentine) but still uphill all the way and insulated?
  23. joe90
    I find this thread great as I also am planning my DHW strategy. I also think a hot water tank with loads of insulation and E7 is a good idea, good to hear that a vented cylinder if well planned build is not much poorer performance wise than unvented. With comments regarding incoming water temperature I wonder if with a warm roof design ( like I am having) that the cold water tank within the loft would raise the temp of the water being supplied to an electric shower enough to be acceptable, yes I know the water would rob the envelope ( within the loft) of a bit of heat but would it be detrimental?
  24. joe90
    +1 to the above, I would never use a bung in a boss under a floor.
  25. joe90
    I did see somewhere that a chap converts off cuts into poly beads ( I think he used a garden shredder?).
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