joe90

Frankly Jamie very do-able and I am doing mine as you propose above, although I think I will do our toilets also in 10mm. It's been recommended on here by some Welsh bloke ? To use hep2o and if seems good kit ( I got a sample sent). I will watch this thread as I want advise on manifolds and specific parts. Go for it, over to the professionals:-

Frankly some of that stuff is as cheap as chips and worth a punt if it's only used very occasional, I am off to Lidl in the morning

Yes you are right about exempt stoves in smokeless zones but it does not stop burning bad quality wood ( the exempt stoves as far as I gave gathered simply don't have control to slow burn like some do, and as we know fast burns at high temps are the best way to use such a stove.) as I said above I believe councils should have powers ( and use them) to stop nuisance.

Good point Jeremy, perhaps in mine I will use the RH sensor to clear condensation and an emergency " curry" button in case of air pollution if needed.?

On the other hand I want to go with " classical cottage" for our build, Devon cream and the like and any colour enhancement is gained through soft furnishings, sofas, cushions, curtains etc . ( I have yet to put this to her indoors so I reserve the right to retract this statement ?).

I had not thought of a boost button for mine but thought the humidistat within the unit would suffice? or are you thinking of a boost as well?

Personally I think recommendations are great, best way to find a good deal. When I was self employed all my work was by word of mouth. Let's hear more from people that have had a good shopping experience. I have just sourced my wood burner and flue materials from "stovesonline" and they could not be more helpful and were a pleasure to deal with. They have an in house flue design person who was brilliant. There you are I have started the ball rolling.

"Compromise", I disagree, we have got exactly what we want ( well, the only thing that would not work for us was a cold larder like my gran used to have). The wife is telling me our build is smaller than she thought but that's quite common with bare brick walls, I have promised her it will all be ok when plastered and furnished ( no pressure there then ?).

Despite me having a wood stove in our new build I still think the council should have power, for the greater good, to control any kind of pollution like this. It's like the thread on the other place that's been running for years about a chap who's health is seriously affected by a neighbours wood stove. It's nuisance and should be controlled.

I remember watching an electrician deal with the armour by using a half round file to file/ score the wires with the corner of the file then simply snap them off, I was impressed how neat it was and the wires remained flat with the cable.

+1 to the above, and yes I am having one in our very rural location.

Neil, can't you " relocate"a few of your amphibian friends to your neighbours ?( sorry, not P.C. but could not resist). (Cough), of course diplomacy all the way.

Thanks Jeremy, a very clear answer. As per my comment on another thread about not understanding the finer details of this stuff and earthing types ( and preferring woodwork ?) I think I will leave the planning to my builders electrician as he will have to sign it off anyway, but it's good to know. Personally I will have no restrictions on size for the C.U. or cable runs.

Am I right in thinking that a radial system has a fuse ( or whatever) per socket on one piece of wire from the CU? As that surely would be a lot of fuses ( or whatever) and cable.

Frankly apart from deciding radial or ring I am leaving all this stuff to my builders electrician, hopefully he will allow me to help with first fix to help with cost.

I can't imagine country camp sites being all on mains drains tho?

With regard a 5CL site that I was interested in,they are not allowed on residential land, access must be good, water and toilet disposal point must be provided BUT noticed this connected to a septic tank is not allowed, I need to find out if they DO allow it connected to a treatment plant ( like wot I am having) . 5CL sites don't usually have amenity blocks.

I really like this idea and will be incorporating it into my house build, hallway light I think.

Great idea but does not fit with our "cottage" choice of sanitary ware and underfloor plumbing. ( we are having a thunderbox toilet in our on suite, the ones with the cistern above your head and a chrome pipe down the wall ?). Not everyone's cup of tea I know.

I am planning the plumbing for two bathrooms and cloakroom with regard wastes ( hence previous thread on boss connection to soil pipe). Now I need to accurately plan and cut holes in timber floors for the wastes and question one is, is there a set distance from the wall that a toilet soil pipe needs to be?. I could order all the suites etc to put them in place and mark it out but I don't really want it all on site so early and be in the way, get damaged etc, also it would all need unpacking to check for damage as I only have so long to return any kit after delivery. question two is regard wastes under basins, are the pedestals all the same?( my pet hate is seeing pipework under basins) I want all pipework, waste and hot & cold feed within the hollow pedestal. i think I will have to buy all the kit to make sure is in the right place but please advise.

I have just been told that the caravan club has something called " 5 CL sites" which means a small site with just water supplied and a max of 5 caravans and you don't need planning permission, the caravan club does all the legal stuff with the council. We are going to consider this for part of our meadow as a little earner in our retirement. It will also p**s of our neighbour that objected to everything we are doing as he applied for a caravan site on his land years ago and was refused.?

I just wish I understood what you lot are talking about, give me woodwork any day ?.

At least I won my appeal ?

Right chaps we have a resolution , the I joist company have accepted my proposal but are insisting on a glulam ridge beam and glulam hip rafters ( despite their own website indicating they are not required) but I have decided to accept so I can progress and not pay for a structural engineer to prove my point. Excuse my crappy drawing but I never got to do CAD. we are having 300 mm I joists as rafters but the ridge beam is glulam like the hip rafters and the ridge is supported on two 90mm square steel posts bolted on the top of two internal walks. This will all be lined in 9mm osb with glued joins as a vapour barrier and maybe painted to increase its resistance. I hope this helps others who may have similar problems, thanks for all your input. On to the next decision ?

But of course ?, frankly I am in such a rural location and officialdom ( apart from the planning department) does not exist around here. Between you and me ( and I know this is a public forum) but I will almost be living there permenantly this coming year but our builder has stated it's normal in that area for people to live in a caravan on site during a build.