joe90

me too, as you know I am a Luddite ?. Jeremy went down the sunamp route because of overheating from his DHW tank and had all sorts of problems which he advised the manufacturer how to fix (which I couldn’t) I don’t suffer from overheating and I like tried and tested stuff, perhaps in the future!!!

If it’s used by a farmer, as you said, it will leave other agricultural land fir growing/grazing/husbandry, that’s why it’s called agricultural ! We already import too much food IMO.

yes, in an industrial estate, not agricultural land ?‍♂️

Welcome Claire, are you planning a build/restoration or are you just “interested?.

Same with fashion!!, at least I am fashionable again (third time round ?).

When I was working I used to warn customers that sometimes it would appear not much has happened as prep work can’t always be seen but on other days much would get done, but I was working for a fixed price.

Not that you should have too, but surely there is a method of recording your usage with a timescale, I am sure @SteamyTea could knock one up with a raspberry pie or summut like that?. He left a monitoring devise here which gives a readout on his laptop.

In Jeremy’s opinion, yes.

Sounds ok to me, just make sure you put a draw cord in for your cable before it’s installed.

From what I have read here and elsewhere GSHP are not favoured much, lots of brine, noisy indoor units. I have an ASHP and it’s brilliant but only gives low output (5 kW) over long periods but if designed properly works very well in a well insulated airtight house. my brother in law had an indoor pool and it cost him more to heat that than his largish house!!! (Oil).

My bedrooms are 19’ roughly with no heating upstairs (apart from bathroom towel rads.)

Oh dear, sorry to hear of your ongoing problems. Good for you for keeping evidence of your meter readings. This is another reason I like being a Luddite, I hate tech, don’t do apps etc. etc. I just read my meter once a month (after an Email prompt) and pay what I use (also Octopus). Stick to your guns, at the end of the day your meter readings are the accurate ones. Regarding being mad, we all are, join the club ?

Oh dear, sorry to hear of your ongoing problems. Good for you for keeping evidence of your meter readings. This is another reason I like being a Luddite, I hate tech, don’t do apps etc. etc. I just read my meter once a month (after an Email prompt) and pay what I use (also Octopus). Stick to your guns, at the end of the day your meter readings are the accurate ones.

Doing it properly is the way to go, it will show the buyer you do things properly. If it’s spotted they will try to deduct more than the cost from your asking price ?.

a much better location fir such a venture IMO, We are currently fighting a massive solar PV site on good agricultural land next to us.

I don’t like wet rooms, I have slim shower trays (large) fixed glass panel with flipper and with multi panel and a clip system that has the sealant within/behind it so no sealant showing to get mouldy ( edit... only silicone is glass to tray and mild bleach ensures no mould).

Just to add, make sure you size the tank big enough and very well insulated . Any heat that does escape from the tank heats the airing cupboard then the house so not a total loss.

I presume you want/have main gas?

@JulianB i am late on this thread and confess I have not read it all. I am a Luddite (I don’t like tech) KISS is my mantra (keep it simple stupid ?). I have an ASHP feeding a buffer tank at 48’ (but buffer tank stat set to 35’), the buffer is indirect so water in the ASHP does not mix with the UFH water. The UFH (one zone only) is controlled by one room stat in the hallway, which controls the pump on the manifold. This means the buffer is always topped up to 35’ ready to be used when the room stat calls for heat, only downside is (like a DHW tank) heat is stored in the tank so will lose a little heat, if not used immediately. (But will only loose it into a well insulated house like the DHW tank) I find the heating is not required for at least 8 months of the year so I switch the “heating” off in summer (this means the buffer tank never calls for heat). If in HOT weather I want to circulate the UFH water to disperse heat in the floor next to the South side of the house (big bifolds into a hot conservatory) I “UP” the room stat which switches on the manifold pump but as there is no hot water in the buffer it simply distributes the heat to the North side of the house. I have not needed active “cooling” of our slab up till now but that is a function I have in reserve if global warming really kicks off!!!. I hope this helps?

Don’t stress, it’s a cottage, stuff like that is called “character “. Just tidy it up, don’t render over all the stone as that needs to breathe. When I do stuff like that I tend to finish it off with a brush when it’s nearly hard. Not too hard a bristle, paint brush will do, evens out the trowel marks and gives a rustic finish, which is what “cottage” is all about IMO ?. I have cement in my container 6 months old and still usable as it’s kept in the dry, top rolls down and a brick on it.

Don’t stress about the height, no one will come round and measure it. Why not bite the bullet and get your epdm and do it properly from day one?

No, the ground outside at this point (luckily) is quite low, the duct in within the 200mm floor insulation below a 70mm screed with UFH pipes in it. When I did have an upstand outside I drilled a drain hole at the lowest point in case of any moisture/condensation.

this is what I was told but because of poor “pull” on the stove I removed the upstand, it now exits just above path level with a rodent guard over it. Might be worth giving “stovesonline” a call, they were very helpful and have a dedicated tech guy who designs chimneys etc so will give a view on what’s best.

@Moonshine, with regard manifolds I meant hot and cold water, not heating (I don’t have radiators) the plumbing for the UFH is also all plastic. Only copper used is around DHW tank and buffer tank.

I am a convert to plastic (took some doing!!). Main thing to watch out fir is scratching the pipe can lead to leaks at joins, leave it in the wrapping as long a possible. Also long lengths can be pulled in through voids like cable without lots of joins. I am also a fan of manifolds so each run is run separately.