joe90

Howden’s usually price match any similar quote( they always did for me ) and I went back and forth between them and “others” blaming the customer on getting the other quotes ?

Really depends on what these sections are, I would guess ? two long “strings” and bolt on steps!!!, @pocster can you not ask your supplier what these sections are and individual weights

I got a power Harrow to break mine up.....

No idea, I found them in the internet and my builder ordered them (he commented that they were a good price at the time, three years ago tho). They did send brick slip samples x 4 and the missus picked this one (so it’s not my fault ?‍♂️). just to add, as I am OCD I got the bricklayer to use whole or half bricks only and had the windows bespokely made to order (I hate little bits of brick).

Currently in his dungeon ?

I have just looked at Ibstock but can’t find it?

If i remember correctly they were called “Northumberland blend” bought through a brick supplier in Exeter (but they did come from Northumberland originally).

With a few scaffold poles and your winch you should be able to lower it, might take a few big blokes to get it in position tho!.

We have “antique” bricks (tumbled so the corners are knocked off), we had mixed sand and lime to replicate old lime Mortor and we think it looks really good. I specified brick cills and the colour of the windows was completely wrong ? we wanted “national trust olive green” but there is more than one shade. We chose RAL 1000 on the iPad (big mistake) windows arrived on site bright yellow and I had a fit!!! But now the house is complete we love it and everyone says how nice it is (too late to change it).

You need to work out the door weight and check the spec of any pivot system. Only problem with any pivot system is working how to remove the door if required.

You can make your own from copper but I used a few of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-reducing-4-port-closed-spigot-manifold-22-x-10mm/2901R?tc BEWARE, you can connect them together but can’t get the remount tool in to get them apart, ask me how I know ?, also I did not have individual shut off valves on each run, just a 1/4 turn isolator on the 22mm feeds into the manifold. How often would you need to isolate a single feed for any length of time? I did tee two toilets rather than buy another manifold, the bottom tee is to a drain tap.

I have used 10mm to basins hot and cold and the water supply is more than sufficient and the hot water is there in seconds and little losses etc . 15mm to showers, bath and kitchen sink. I only lagged 22mm DHW tank to manifold (regs are 1m I believe). I would not change anything if I did it again.

Yes, I came across this actually happening in a pair of semi,s (luckily the neighbour was a relative!). Back to back toilets (on a Dividing wall) connected to a “double branch 92’ “. edit, this was on a near horizontal pipe not a vertical stack, I doubt it would have been a problem with a vertical stack due to gravity (but still not something I would like to do).

Is there any way to “measure” the sludge?, long stick???

Now you know why I left!!,!!!!

In my caravan the gas boiler packed up and I installed one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274474218804?hash=item3fe7f03534:g:5XUAAOSwFGRfR~dx it fed the shower as well (but won’t supply taps and showers at the same time, dead cheap and easy to instal ?

Yes, I really don’t like “coloured stains”, better to stain the wood then a clear varnish/polish.

How about polyurethane varnish?? Matt or gloss!

Try the wire wool etc first, if this does not do the trick then sand it. If you remove the door, do the sanding outside, with these winds dust won’t be a problem!!

Just above “nose height” ?

If it needs sanding why not buy/hire a belt sander. Take the door off and lay flat on trestles/blocks to do it, belt sanders will take it back much quicker.

I understand as we are on solid yellow clay, yes run it into the drain, no probs.

Oops, missed that bit ?

Why do you want to parge the walls if your going to wet render/plaster them anyway?

I thought I was going mad, I don’t recall having a condensate drain on my ASHP. Just looked again at my instructions and no mention!! Any condensation from the “radiator” just runs down the back into the soil and is very little. I only thought condensate drains were on gas boilers and MVHR units???. Frankly any drill will be ok with underground drainage pipe, perhaps a hole cutter the least risk of shattering it (very unlikely).