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Everything posted by joe90
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Cost benefit analysis of thermally broken front door
joe90 replied to Adsibob's topic in Heat Insulation
As most of you will know I am not into stats etc, my front door was made fir me by a locally company who built all the windows and conservatory, I specced “insulated” and they built an oak door filled with insulation. No idea about values. But I have an enclosed porch to act as a barrier, airlock, and this makes a massive difference. Likewise my back doors (bifolds) open into a double glazed conservatory so again a barrier, airlock. I don’t like the idea of a single door to the pit side world as they will never be insulated as well as the walls. -
I would just do it, offer to pay council tax (band A) what’s the worst that can happen?, if they do get stroppy then file a retrospective application but frankly you may well have finished the house by the time the council get their act together (and I would fight it quoting @Temp post above).
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No I don’t mean reverse the door, just move the bottom or top hinge in or out so the latch side is square with the frame!!, (if it’s possible!). No, latch can be any side, mine is RH side. Oak plant on is fine, hard wearing but make sure you pilot drill fir nails as it will split easier than say pine. Problem with oak and steel nails, they will produce black stains in the oak.
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Yes, unless you can move the hinges the other side so it’s straight the lock side???? But then again the plant on that side will be squiffy ?♂️. edit, looking at those photos a 20mm square plant on would fit, albeit squiffy, it’s called character.
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Plastering over a thin sand/cement parge coat.
joe90 replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Brick & Block
With mine I parged only in the space between downstairs ceiling and first floor flooring, the scratch coat on the walls both downstairs and up does the parging itself so no need to parge those areas IMO. -
This stuff is good, have used it myself in the past.
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Bonkers idea or a great idea?
joe90 replied to canalsiderenovation's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
Or short offcuts? -
This has been raised here a few times, I put a caravan on site for me to live in and paid council tax band a, usually councils don’t bother but a few make it a condition that it’s removed after the house is finished. HOWEVER if you want to retain it (like @ProDave did) you have every right without planning as long as it’s not a complete a accommodation (has bathroom, kitchen etc) so cannot be considered a separate dwelling, people can sleep in it as long as they use the house fir say bathroom or kitchen facilities.
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I have full fill cavity with rockwall type insulation, it has a BBA certificate to say it does not wick damp, and I proved it, my west wall (brick) was soaked after a wet winter but when core drilling through the wall no damp had wicked into the insulation although the insides of the bricks were sodden. I have since treated the west wall with a damp treatment but have no worries about damp and this kind of insulation.
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Sounds like your fence does not need planning, verge then Unmaintained road, either deems it not required IMO. in a huge housing estate called Yate near Bristol many houses are built back to front, road leads to garage and back door, everyone has tall fences. Front door leads on to footpaths (no roads) and fences not allowed??????
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Bonkers idea or a great idea?
joe90 replied to canalsiderenovation's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
Brilliant idea, certainly strong enough and will last decades, regarding the top of the embankment, if no one else is interested, if you create a “natural” woodland area you could eventually claim vacant possession. We have an old railway line near us and some people have taken over a part next to them and no one seems bothered! -
I have an old chest of drawers in pitch pine, lovely stuff full of resin (which is another reason it lasts longer).
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I use Gallup 360, takes a while but kills everything stone dead, roots included.
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Any decent bricklayer can do this, either a lintel or corbeled brickwork will do this.
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that indicates the trap is not tight on the tray!!! so is probably where it’s leaking. ? If you can remove it make sure the nut goes far enough along the thread to tighten on the thickness of the shower tray!!! I like using a smear of Vaseline (on plumbing washers) ?
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I did, I had a single builder/contractor with his own project manager but he was not needed as I did it but have been a builder before and designed it myself so understood what was required. I also did all the woodwork, plumbing, tiling etc, builder just did the structure, plastering (wet trades). Claiming VAT is fairly easy but because I am crap at paperwork I paid a VAT specialist to claim mine fir me and he got back much more than his fee, even finding stuff I forgot!!!. I can PM you his details and others here have used him.
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Any need for Structural warranty (no mortgage)
joe90 replied to gc100's topic in New House & Structural Warranties
I have no structural warranty, I cannot believe that building to building regs with formal visits from the BCO means nothing. If I have to sell I will be looking for a company that supplies one retrospecfully. -
Tephigram weather alert for Devon and Cornwall.
joe90 replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Ha, my field and garden are like concrete (heavy clay) so much different from the quagmire it was in winter, I am trying to spread Sandy soil in the dips now it’s settled out but have just ordered a sprinkler to try to soften it all. From the sublime to the ridiculous ?♂️ -
dry rot Dry Rot - collapsed floor into basement
joe90 replied to Brovashift's topic in General Structural Issues
I agree, not A DIY job, lots of work and money ? -
replace old oil boiler with new or go ASHP
joe90 replied to Lee66's topic in Boilers & Hot Water Tanks
Frankly ASHP,s are only any good in well insulated draught free properties although you could massively oversize it. Would mean bigger radiators as well and bigger DHW tank. -
No idea in figures but I do believe it negates any heating (apart from DHW) about 8 or 9 months of the year. I was told I would totally overheat, and if I did not open windows, yes I would but I do close the bifolds into the house to keep the heat out when required. I do believe that location plays a big part and the calculators (IMO) don’t take this into account enough. We are in a fairly open location near the Atlantic so it’s often windy which stops a lot of over heating. (It does face due South).
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perhaps a sign that says 24hr access required, vehicles will be towed away if access is blocked.
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Needs to be a structural engineer IMO. Make sure they are “qualified” regarding large retaining walls before engaging. From my perspective if it’s fairly old and has no cracks (or recently filled in cracks) it won’t be going anywhere soon!!!
