joe90

I have a plumbfix account, mostly use click and collect. (No queuing with the public who usually don’t know what they want and spend ages discussing it at the counter) Yes toolstation can be a bit cheaper but was miles away, then again toolstation deliver free if you spend over £10 (Screwfix over £50). Stop press......new toolstation just opened NEXT DOOR TO SCREWFIX ?

Never heard of that ?‍♂️.....every day is a school day

First fix (paslode) may be a bit OTT they have teeth that grip the wood and leave dents, but if filling and painting may not be a problem. Second fix (paslode) fires Brad type nails (think panel pins) so not much head and can be fired at an angle through the tongue (which I have done fir floorboards. I would be wary of using brads as twisting etc of the wood may pull the pins out. First fix nails (with head) almost impossible to pull out (even if you want to ?).

I have used mapei tile adhesive with very good results, perhaps a duff batch?.

RHS Rosemoor near me has gone all “wild flower meadow” and uses one of these to trim the grass/flowers at the end of the season leaving the seeds to germinate fir next year. I re built one of these 30 years ago to cut down thistles etc in a horses field as the horses ate around the thistles.

Good morning and welcome, yes insulation and draught proofing is key, you only buy insulation once, depends on the room you have for it. you buy heating continually . Looking forward to more details of the building and what you want to achieve ?

Hindsight is a wonderful thing and us buildhubbers would have noticed earlier I think. I still say the walls were built on the edge of the foundation, not the middle and I would have thought a BC should have noticed that. just re visited the video and he complained he could not maintain his wall, render it, but that is impossible within 8” of the boundary, even if the new extension was 8” away that makes the Gap 16”.

Eh?, that was @Onoff !!!, mine are razor sharp and not rusty ?. I will be having mowed, stripey lawn, and areas of uncut grasses with wild flowers sown as well, going all Monty Don. (It’s on my “to do list”).

+1 wot @ProDave said, I would find that very annoying (but I am OCD)?

Hello and welcome, the above is very true and if you have no previous experience of building a damn good (reliable) builder. Don’t let that put you off tho, follow your dream but be realistic. Tons of good info and friendly advise here so bring it on.

Not much of a plumber then !!!!! Find one that knows what he is doing, Willis heaters are dead easy, not rocket science . +1 with steamy and Peter above.

I did not have the time to build a “unit” to live In so bought a Static but if you can get a 7.5 tonner in, what is the width?. There are many large touring vans for sale and if looked after can be sold on. I liked the fact a caravan was complete, if small, fir the duration.

The footings must also be trespassing!!! Just hope the council sort it properly . I would like to see the original plans of where walls/footings/guttering are in relation to the boundary.

Which one is trespassing !!! The guttering of the one on the left should be on there own side of the boundary, so the one on the right is trespassing (or visa versa).

Stove installation must be done/signed off by Hetas or the building inspector (who usually don’t know the regs regarding stoves. IMO). I installed mine and BC duly signed it off (saying “you’ve obviously done this before so it must be right” ?).

I do find that second paragraph a bit worrying and would make me have second thoughts. The chap I spoke to was the owner and he was on this forums previous membership, but no longer. His wife was very helpful as well, perhaps it’s new management???. I would worry about taking your feed down and back up, any condensation or moisture will lie there and build up, luckily the ground outside my air feed is about a foot lower than the inside floor level. Never heard that about negative pressure area and 2 feeds from opposite sides of the house!!!and never read it anywhere.......

Sandpaper on a block of wood or one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/aluminium-hand-sander-240-x-84mm/12688

I agree, when I lived in Bristol I would not have installed one, down here in Devon, very rural, I do have a stove (which I use rarely) my own felled timber will be at least three years old before burning.

As far as I am aware they are all capable but only some advertise it. My Kingspan unit (Carrier) will but it ain’t got that hot yet!!!!. Read jeremy Harris blog, his has the same unit as me and he reversed engineered his to do it.

Just as an update (as I started this thread) in my conservatory there was a gap between glass and inside frame of about 6mm, I believe the flies laid eggs in this gap and during the spring they all hatched, hence clouds of flies. I scraped out this gap with a piece of stiff wire and inserted a length of 10mm foam, no flies since, will see what next spring brings.

Can you honestly tell me a BCO is going to count the nails you used ??? I have a reputation for over engineering stuff and I would be very satisfied with that fix, in fact I have done it often, does not need a structural engineer to work it out. Make the “noggin a tight fit between gang nails and fit after the roofing sheet is fitted, 4 off screws along its length down through the ply, job done.

Then why not screw strengtheners to the edge of the ply at the edge (noggin slightly short of joists/gangnails) this will stop any flexing, ?

I tend to use longer but thinner screws to reduce the splitting risk. Not ideal but if you have to join sheets on a joist this thin they must be put in at an angle.

Yes, just make sure your screws are in the middle (pencil line to follow?). That’s why I don’t like joining sheets on a joist that narrow. Those noggins will be fine,

It does not matter where the joins are as long as they are supported, trying to cut sheets accurately to fit joists is very time consuming, bung in noggins and off cuts and it will be fine, you can overthink it!!!