Russell griffiths

Get rimless toilets.

Have a look at Douglas fir. a neighbour has just used it and looks very nice.

Not really, I have another house, we are building a new one to live in, if it takes me another year then that will be 5 years, this is not a problem, it’s what you do when it’s finished. If you move in and live there for 3 years then no problems, if you finish it and sell it you will be liable to pay the cil, as well as sorting the vat out. If its for you and your family then happy days, it doesn’t matter how long, but as soon as it looks like you did it to make a profit then tax is due in one form or another.

Other things to think of. CIL Payment, if you don’t live in it then you are liable to pay the cil. Vat, again if it’s not your principal place of residence then you cannot claim the vat as a new build, you can claim the vat if you are building this for profit and it’s your business, but then you will pay tax on your profit. Basically if it isn’t your house for you, then you will pay a chunk of something to the tax man.

I think the words load bearing are confusing. Its not holding up the roof its not holding up a jumbo jet but I definitely think it is assisting that joist and helping with removing flex. Remove it then go up stairs and jig about a bit, I bet that joist has an unhealthy amount of bounce.

I bet my left nut that if you remove that the bounce in the floor upstairs will increase. up to you if it’s an acceptable level. I personally would be adding strength to that joist. Its not going to fall down, but any flexwill end up with cracked ceilings.

The only way to do this is look at the Australian standard for high fire risk areas. Looking at those houses in dagenham that burnt down a few of them had metal roofs. So brick walls and a metal roof, it would be interesting to see footage of how the fire spread to the houses and what bit caught fire first.

A sprinkler won’t stop your house burning down from an external fire source.

You can get James hardie board in a 150mm wide plank you could put that in the gaps. However I would look at metal roofing supplies and buy a coil of flat black roofing sheet, probably on a roll cut to 150-200mm whatever and staple this in vertical strips behind where the gaps are. You can actually buy metal strips for creating a shadow a shadow gap between sheets of ply for use on decorative ceilings and stuff, but because England is stuck in 1860 I have only found it in America and Australia. @Patrick could probably help with the metal.

Your house will burn down in the blink of an eye. The only reassurance is looking at the numbers and then the probability. How many houses in England ? how many houses burnt down this week ? calm down a bit and have a think. I lived in oz and they made some significant changes to building design following a major fire and many deaths. So you can design it out if you want, but you will need to scrap your design and go back to the drawing board, or look at the probability of it happening and carry on. A friend of mine had a whole house external sprinkler system set up on his roof, you could do that or again look at the odds, he was in a mountainside location where temperatures reached 30 plus for 3/4 of the year, a whiff of a flame and it would rush up the mountain. I think what happened yesterday was just very unfortunate and probably very unlikely to happen again.

If i was having an open gap, I would forget any membrane and clad the whole outside with a fibre cement sheet then paint the lot black, or even exterior ply with a black waterproof coating. I wouldn’t be happy with a membrane.

Can you not design the front at the front, just to please the planners, but have other sections of house orientated to do what you want.

You got it.

Is there an echo in here. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Can you fit back to back aircon, so no ductwork needed.

Build it like an outdoor bar, granite top with top mount sink, then that gives you an area for taps and a cupboard underneath to hide the waste.

You can paint thin coat render no problem.

Only if it is your designated disabled access toilet.

I’ve no idea what they have changed to, I just wanted you to be aware.

Have you had building regs passed yet, and if so at what u value for the walls, as the regs have changed and you need a better u value know if you haven’t already got it passed.

Just looked on a stair builder site so I think I’ve found what I’m looking for. Cheers.

Morning can anybody point me in the right direction for building regs for a hand rail on a new staircase for a new build. 1. Do you have to supply a hand rail ? 2. If so, on one side or on both ? 3. What height do they need fixing at. ? Cheers.

32mm defo too short. needs to be. 45mm.

Would depend on the finish you want, as you said you a re using wood I would think your going for a rustic look. I have used those screws and they are too pretty to be on show, very shiny and will not suit a rustic look. Ring shank nails either hand driven or nail gun, if the nail gun is going in too Dee then you haven’t adjusted it properly. Or I would go for a decking screw, but you will struggle to find them that short. My neighbour has just done a big barn with galv screws so he can remove a plank if he needs to. Really depends on look and timber pattern.

Have you got any more joists, if so put a double joist there. If not do as nod said. You should have some form of noggin in those i joist anyway. Should be a couple along the length to stop buckling.