Russell griffiths

I’m doing some planning and one method to plumb our house would be to use one of the pre insulated pipes, I’m looking at 22mm or 28mm anybody got any pros or cons on different makes, some of it is bloody expensive, but it’s not an area I’m willing to scrimp on. Any thoughts peeps.

Have just been to the self build centre and noticed that Internorm had removed their stand.

You might be better not viewing by area but by build type, what method do you want to use no point looking at an icf build that’s 10 mins down the road if your going timberframe.

You don’t need a baton at all you are thinking house when you need to think office block, lots of commercial systems that use aluminium bars fitted to the outside of the insulation with long fixings, I think a lot use a counter bracket fitted through the insulation. Still not convinced on your 140mm blocks, good luck getting someone to lay them.

Hi all. So lots and lots of dramas with windows, I don’t do drama, I’m like James Bond never fazed ?? it looks like most of the dramas are caused by the fitters and not really the windows can anybody shed some light on what was wrong, what did the fitters not do, what did the fitters do wrong, how would you put this right next time. I intend fitting my own so would would like to know some of the pitfalls before I start. Having seen a lot of window fitters on site they don’t look a lot different than the scaffolders so I’m not surprised people have dramas.

So the amount of choice is staggering, how do I pick the good from the bullshit. What sort of rating shoud i look for as far as glass is concerned. What do I look for in frames. How do I pick a good frame? i know what I like, I like slick flush non clunky. But how do I know it’s good or better than its rivals. Is it a given that the german stuff will be good or is this just con we have got used to hearing. Thanks for any pointers.

You plonker. And you met me the other day. Did you not know what I used to do for a living. Would happily have done it for you for a bit of exchange labour. Nothing else for it but get in and cut it up bit by bit.

And while your at it go and buy some shorter nails for you nail gun. ??

Oh bugger, that just got expensive. I wouldn’t use 90 bends they are to sharp, but it’s hard to say what you are proposing from that picture.

When I did a bit of radius work, we used a timber former, if the former was cut from ply you would have a plumbing point every 2.4m you kept these plumb and used the former to tap the bricks from behind until they touched the former. I still think the brickies on this will be adding a fair margin of pain in the arse markup.

Thank you all, @PeterW how do you like your 3G upvc.

The five windows are all on a separate facade so I’m hoping it will be ok to alter the look from the rest of the house. Theses are the five, we have no upper floor so they are 4 m above floor level on the inside.

Has anybody done a cost spreadsheet with the average metre cost of windows i would be interested to know roughly what sort of price per m everyone paid. I am expecting mine to come in at the price of a small private jet. Ta very much.

Evening, I think there are people on here that have 3G upvc, we have 5 windows set high up and are thinking we could go upvc as you cannot get within 10m of them so may be able to use a cheaper product up there. Did you find there was a good saving on upvc instead of ally clad, and are you happy with them. Cheers russ.

Pah 1.5m that’s just a boys distance, not even worth a bet.

How far a push is it?? i would be interested to see you push 10 mm up 15mm I may be wrong but the first m will be a doddle, the others may not be so much fun as friction kicks in. Go on prove me wrong.

Cool, nicely worked out, I thought it would be far tighter than that.

Does anybody know if you get a pipe choice with a wunda design, I would like to use an al pex type pipe or are we saying pay the £50 to wunda and buy you parts elsewhere.

I find a lot of these new regulations ridiculous we are at 89m asl, but required a full flood risk survey, our house is built according to the findings in the report which are 700mm above ground level which is 1.2m above our lake level. If that lake was to rise 1m I would think 75% of the south east of England would be under water. Bloody ridiculous.

As above. i Thought it was two things compressive strength ability to still be a good insulation material even when wet. .??????

The original one would have just been mounted on a bed of mortar, you may find it a bit clonky if you have any bowed timber as it will lift the plate off of the mortar bed, if this is the case chuck a couple of concrete screws in to the sleeper wall to take the bounce out.

So it’s probably to late for this floor now but there’s a few things not quite right there now I think this is a kitchen so a few points won’t matter your joist hangers are not right, the full face of the hanger needs to be in full contact with the pole plate bolted to the wall, yours hang below, this helps with deflection. Your joist length looks a smidge short, this helps with deflection its a kitchen i know, how would you fit skirting boards. Off on a tangent, if you intend living there, change the water main, if there is a brick ledge under that dpc why not have the joists resting on that. Getting back to your original question, you need a timber under the joists mid span, you will skew nail from the sides of the joists into this wall plate, this helps all the joists act together and helps spread in the centre, none of theses really matter as your span is so small, but it’s nice to do it correctly as it looks right before you cover it up and makes you feel all warm and fuzzy that you did a good job.

When you say 50% timber cladding, how would this be with an icf house with timber cladding, would I be wise to increase the rendered sections to over 50% of wall area just in case in the future we want to equity release.

20mm is a fair ol cock up to sort out, you do need to be thinking about your ffl, you cannot call insulation and screed finished, 20 mm of tiles on top will throw you right out. Your architect has probably done you a favour. No need to be too picky you will just adjust your screed and insulation up or down a bit depending on what height you need to achieve.

I was thinking you don’t want to use the word ceramic, nasty horrible stuff.