Russell griffiths

That’s really nice. I would have just used the tip of my chainsaw ??

Method A is faster for sheeting, less cuts and less wastage. Sheet the whole of the ceiling in probably half the time it would take to cut it to fit between the walls.

Why not move the boundaries to what you want and whack it back on the market project properties normally in short supply.

Just remember if you pour every 6 courses that’s a lot of concrete pump hire. Our wall height is about 5.4m we poured this in two pours so 2 x £600 pump hire, if you pour every 6 courses that could get expensive.

New layout from wunda. Any improvements needed here. @Nickfromwales @PeterW @ProDave NR1620 Russell Griffiths PIPE LAYOUT REV B - FINAL COPY - A1 (46 High Street).pdf

Where abouts in the country are you.

So you end up with a hexagon wall instead of curved. ?‍♂️

Toughen up buttercup.

Can they not take the t out and install a straight joint. Or I suppose that’s a welded connection as well.

I wish that’s all I had to worry about. Nope you’ve got to much time on your hands, go and cut the grass or something.

Yep.

NO.

I would have thought that any building you want to turn into air bnb will come under a habitable room so will require full building regs approval. Have you looked into this. I would think keeping an uninsulated flag floor will be a complete no no, so floor up insulation down concrete topping, flags back down. Timber wall built inside single skin wall, insulation added then plasterboard lots of insulation in ceiling. Fire escape window ??? i would talk to an architect or the local building control.

Have a look at a system called ground improvement piles. @AnonymousBosch has these beneath a raft, it’s basically stuffing a big metal probe in the ground then as it’s withdrawn slowly tipping in a stone and vibrating it, you basically end up with dozens of stone columns under your raft to improve the ground bearing capacity. Many on here have piled foundation and its not a deal breaker IF YOU do the research, if you let your SE loose with your cheque book it can get expensive. I was quoted £5000 by my se just to design the slab. He soon disappeared and I replaced him with a piling co that had an in house SE that priced all the design in with the job. I took a drive around locally and found a good few houses being built and talked about piling with them, from that I had a good idea what would be needed, so I was pre armed with information.

£25-35 45 m any more than that and I won’t be buying it i think your being bent over. What you think @nod can you go to smaller sizes 600 x600 used to be large, I’m not sure where all these huge outrageous sizes have come from. Is it a particularly fancy pad.

Tell him to go on Facebook, site called so trade community.

I haven’t ever seen mesh used in domestic properties, seen it in many industrial applications or retaining walls, but never a house.

Thanks everyone, I’m going back to the drawing board with this, so many things to change.

Will your brickies reduce their price if they don’t need to install insulation???

Your sips company should be able to provide the correct details that you need if they cannot, then it’s time to find a better supplier.

Thanks all, all the points you have raised I have already had a chat with them about. I need a bit more education so I can plan this better. Is there a good length of pipe run to aim for, what’s too long. Should pipe lengths be as even length as possible. If all runs are a good length, why would it be better to have two manifolds, with a second manifold, I would then have to run a flow and return to that. One question I have is the long runs from the manifold to the rooms is all congested together, so why can these not be spaced the same as the loops in the room by spacing the runs apart they would cover a large floor are and then less loops needed to cover that area. Does that make sense.

Try and do a bit of research regarding the different type of blocks. Aerated or aircrete, or thermalites. Are proper rubbish and I wouldn’t use them if they where free. Lightweight aggregate blocks are fine. Dont be confused with the load rating, even some of the shite aerated stuff can have a 7kn rating.

@Reiver are you aware you can get curved blocks to suit your radius.

I would say you need somebody to do some calculations on this for a couple of reasons 1. If you under specified your steel your roof will sag and stop your doors working. 2. If you over specified your steel it could cost you a chunk of cash you could spend else where. Calculations should be done for a couple of hundred or just go and get a dirty big steel from the scrap yard and a steel corner post, for probably less than the calculations. Depends on your risk level. He who dares rodney. A rough sketch and theres probably a few blokes on here who could run the calcs for you.

Have a look for some second hand twinwall roofing sheets, knock up a quick 3x2 frame and nail it on, tube of cheap silicone, and chuck it in the skip when your done. A lot of polythene doesn’t like the UV and goes brittle.