Russell griffiths

You can screw into those studs, but the plasterboard will start to crush with repetitive loading. solid timber needed like a piece of 18 mm mdf painted to match the wall to spread the load, screw through the mdf into the studs. the mdf is like a big washer, the surface area of those brackets is small and will eat into the plasterboard.

Is this your disability access door or not.

I think covering is down to ground conditions, clean dirt no stones then I believe you can use the dug material, stones bigger than 25-40mm then clean gravel surrounding the pipe.

You shouldn’t be putting 110mm in a 9inch trench, not enough room for the pea gravel to come up to required spec. 12inch bucket on the digger for 110mm pipe.

I nailed all my thermo modified poplar, it’s inside on a ceiling so isn’t catching the weather. secret nailed through the tongue. this method may not be substantial enough for outside use.

Vastern sawmill has a huge display of every type of timber they do on display outside. TBH they all look identical from 10 m away they have all weathered to a really dark colour. so I’m unsure if changing type actually makes any difference after it’s been sitting outside for a couple of years.

Just buy solid timber no need to trench the heads, glue and screw before fitting, get in the habit of pre knotting the timber and giving it a coat of primer before fitting, far better than your painter doing only the front face afterwards.

I thought clay pipe now uses plastic and rubber connectors, no sockets and hemp packing any more. the clay is straight and the connector looks just like a plastic slip coupler.

Coach screws do not require a nut on the end. coach bolts do.

All in plastic, why use clay unless it’s been specifically asked for. ideal fall is 1::40.

Butt join. top in first then the two sides.

Doesn’t the whole installation look a bit shit.

If it’s a detached property with a couple of metre gap between you and the neighbours, 100mm up or down wouldn’t even notice, so I don’t think they care that much. i would set it up as high as you dare, it will help with drainage runs and run off from the field behind, and your retaining wall will be shorter.

The side your not knocking down ???

For this area get a screed company in, they will be in and out in a day and it will be spot on, I did traditional screed with fibres. fantastic finish from a company that does it all day everyday.

Do you have any thoughts on a trip to the self build centre in Swindon I have a 1m off cut of guttercrest stuff you could have, but not going to be able to post it. it’s in ral 7016.

Fill out your form showing minimal lighting, get the condition signed off. install all first fix wiring to all the places you actually want lighting, second fix minimal lighting as per approved plans, get house signed off. get electrician back and fit the lights you wanted. if I complied with everything I’m supposed to on my site, I might as well not live here. natural England wanted to know how many times we cut the grass. FFS.

Just been to a mates place, some excellent wall paper in his place, if it’s a small area you can afford to go up market as the cost per m won’t kill you, it will always be dearer than painting, but will add so much more with a good design. the pic is something I’ve just done, loads will hate it, some will love it, it’s you house, no point asking other people’s opinion on this really. happy wife, happy life.

Mine is all green and dirty, when cleaned it comes up spotless like the day it was put up. it fits the style of my place well, it matches the roof well. without wanting to sound like a wa###r is there a reason you just don’t go with plastic. it will save you £1200 + is easy to maintain or change if needed. for a standard looking house I would just use plastic.

Don’t seal it, leave it alone, the incorrect bricks have been used below dpc, nothing you can do about that, so you need to stop moisture building up against the wall. if you want a better fix you need to cut the path back by 100mm and fill the gap with free draining gravel. but that’s loads of agro unless your super keen and actually have a damp problem.

3 hours ago, Conor said: Most water companies won't allow sub metering, you'll need your own supply. i agree with this, normally if there was 5 barn conversions on a site you would see 5 new covers with 5 meters, in a new patch of tarmac outside the site.

If when you dig your hole it fills with water, you then want to concrete it in.

Have a look at the corten system can be diy, rsj in a hole with concrete and steel panels between them. very modern on their website.

Narrowest would be concrete posts and gravel boards, it will look a bit puke though. rsj and railway sleepers will outlast you and come in at around 175mm wide. metal sheet piles, with a timber cladding added to the front sounds ideal very narrow, if the timber decays you can change it without disturbing the structural part, you could clad it in anything you wanted really. how about that rusty steel stuff with a coating on it. CORTEN.

Would it fit what you want after you spend £120 grand on it ? that’s at least what you will spend on it.