Russell griffiths

Available in thin coat for internal tape n fill, widely used in America and Australia where they tape n fill far more than us they do a massive amount of decorative beads including shadow gap and ones that take led strip. we are a bit stuck in 1960.

They don’t dent, they get bashed, the plaster pops off, you can then re fill the damaged area without changing the whole bead.

How far is it too the outlet, could you clean backwards ? nothing of what you linked to is necessary you don’t need any form of trap, and don’t need any form of gulley 110mm pipe then a rest bend then a bit of pipe and a square plastic grid. if a blockage occurs you lift the mesh lid and stick the hosepipe down it. if you have a long run parallel to the house you could put a rodding eye on the end if you wanted. no solids going down it just some dust from the gutters. and no smells coming back up. just be sure the ditch doesn’t overflow and back up your pipe, you might need a flood prevention valve on the end.

Plastic beads, the only proper way to get a sharp external corner IMHO

Open an account and go and discuss your prices.

Our attached garage is lined with 18mm osb, then pink fire board and skimmed. pits made a lovely room and I’m happy it’s sort of safe.

Can you not go 50/50 as if you built it out of icf blocks,

Why won’t eps work above ground, I would have thought you could use eps all the way up and render over it, you may need a specific render product for below ground level.

Notching takes time but costs nothing but labour bolting a plate in needs joist hangers, nails and bolts. if your fast and accurate at cutting timber then notch them in. obviously you can’t make the notch to a size that it takes the strength away from the joist, if this is the case then joist hangers will retain the full size of the joist so retaining the strength rating that it was designed for.

Have a look at Vastern timbers range of heat treated timbers. TBH who will know you used chestnut after a couple of years it will look like any other timber. chestnut is well known for splitting, it’s actually used for split railings.

Does that include the Jack stands and tie down brackets, what is it being anchored to, if it includes that lot then it doesn’t seem too bad.

Put stainless studding down the cavity between the two leaves of brickwork, let it poke up past the top course drill a hole in the wall plate and drop them over the studding. you could just drop the restraint strap down the cavity and build it in, but it would be hard to terminate it neat at the wall plate. you could use a twist strap and go onto the side of a rafter. it all depends what you want to see or what you don’t. if it’s fully open underneath you will want no straps on show.

Why is the waste so high up the wall? what is on the other side of that wall, could/ should the waste be lower

Try to make living there more pleasant look for some patio slabs free on Facebook, build a small patio, build a path to the washing line, put up a small shed that you take your boots off in and work clothes, if the wife starts walking mud in it will start eating in to the dream. build good steps to the static, keep her warm and happy and you can probably put up with the house build.

You will have many more stressful days like that. just think how that plywood saved the day, then every time you have a day like this planned think what could go wrong, and what would save the day, whatever you think will save the day make sure you have it ready. it could be an extra man on concrete pour day or that stack of 4x2 that you found free on Facebook, get it all ready you will find the majority of lads are used to solving problems.

Indoor, needs to roll down and then up again, can’t be £50 worth of material on a steel pole and £10 worth of Chinese motor. too many people making their bit of markup on a £250 product.

I had a quote for 7 it was a tad under £12000 fitted, so I asked for just one supply only, that’s the one that’s a grand. absolutely bloody mystified.

Just had an eye watering quote of £1000 for a roller blind 3m wide anybody got any recommendations, this was supply only. still laying on the floor 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

Can you core drill 160mm hole through the footing instead.

Get your question count up to about a 1000 and you will start to get a grip on things just keep asking, and tell us everything, I’m afraid nothing can be a secret, as all answers could be based on your personal circumstances as well as the type of build. nobody will judge you, you just want the most appropriate answers. im 7 years into mine and still have days when I regret starting it. but at the end you will be sitting in a house you probably wouldn’t have ever been able to go out and buy.

still confused. if your internal finished floor is 600mm higher than the concrete foundation, you will want external ground level 150 below damp course level or ffh, so your external ground level needs to come up 200mm at least, so won’t that allow you to route your pipes out anywhere.

I think all this drainage is a bit 1980’s based any company coming to unblock something will have a jetter, they are not rodding it. but the regs are the regs I suppose.

30 m is the maximum distance between chambers if I remember rightly.

I’m not understanding your problems in your other posts. can you summarise is your concrete foundation too high in that it is stopping you exiting the building in a better location will you not be bringing up the land around the building to cover any pipes you want to bring the pipes out where you have a step in the footings so I’m assuming the above. the pipes can exit anywhere and lay on top of the footing, as long as you lintel over them there’s not a problem. what am I missing.

I would carry on with the trench footing, you are so close to getting finished. you will need 25 sheets of plywood and a bundle of 4x2 you need building control involved to get a feeling for finished depth as you can only dig this once. start by the house and pull the trench in to max depth for aprox 2 m, get it all propped properly that means full sheets all the way to the bottom, progress along to the corner and keep propping, your groundwork guy should not have a problem with this. if he’s not happy I think he lacks experience that is a very small extension and should not pose any problems you need concrete pre ordered and a concrete pump ordered, as the building inspector looks at it get it poured an hour afterwards it will only take an hour to unload 3-4 trucks of concrete into that get it dug one day and poured the next.