Russell griffiths

Unless you have a fair bit of experience I would forget herringbone and use a plank, far more forgiving

You will find that with 75% of the things in the house. people asking about the most aesthetically pleasing mvhr vent 😂 shadow gap skirting and architrave. im sure I could have been in my place 2 years ago im I stopped overthinking things.

I’ve rendered all mine below dpc.

No idea it was 4 years ago.

You won’t need a chamber at the end just a rodding eye coming to ground level

Have you priced any of this stuff up, the last time I looked at an osma chamber base I thought it should come with a free Rolex.

I recently put all our valves up, they have been up two weeks and the wife has never noticed they are there. just go for function over pretty.

I’m not sure I like the shed idea, I think it would be too small, after a couple of years the fun of heading into the shed to do the washing will be wearing thin, I think I would either build something better or drag in a shipping container welfare container that’s already insulated, add a heated clothes rail and you can do drying in there as well.

Norrsken wanted 30mm clearance above my door for deflection of the rsj above the door, I told them it was icf construction so no rsj, they couldn’t understand how it held itself up. do your own research and make a decision, a few companies arse covering goes to silly levels.

Look at kingspan green guard 500. I put that under our doors.

Straight onto the eps, we discussed this a while back, the windows are heavy, but divide the weight by the area and the downwards pressure is very minimal.

In Australia I did its a tapered edge cement based board, you use a product from a tub over the joints and screw holes the same as internal plasterboard, but it’s obviously ok for outdoors. you can get a coloured board from James hardy that uses a joining strip instead of taping the joints.

Use a short 90 then but concrete it in to stop it moving.

Available in thin coat for internal tape n fill, widely used in America and Australia where they tape n fill far more than us they do a massive amount of decorative beads including shadow gap and ones that take led strip. we are a bit stuck in 1960.

They don’t dent, they get bashed, the plaster pops off, you can then re fill the damaged area without changing the whole bead.

How far is it too the outlet, could you clean backwards ? nothing of what you linked to is necessary you don’t need any form of trap, and don’t need any form of gulley 110mm pipe then a rest bend then a bit of pipe and a square plastic grid. if a blockage occurs you lift the mesh lid and stick the hosepipe down it. if you have a long run parallel to the house you could put a rodding eye on the end if you wanted. no solids going down it just some dust from the gutters. and no smells coming back up. just be sure the ditch doesn’t overflow and back up your pipe, you might need a flood prevention valve on the end.

Plastic beads, the only proper way to get a sharp external corner IMHO

Open an account and go and discuss your prices.

Our attached garage is lined with 18mm osb, then pink fire board and skimmed. pits made a lovely room and I’m happy it’s sort of safe.

Can you not go 50/50 as if you built it out of icf blocks,

Why won’t eps work above ground, I would have thought you could use eps all the way up and render over it, you may need a specific render product for below ground level.

Notching takes time but costs nothing but labour bolting a plate in needs joist hangers, nails and bolts. if your fast and accurate at cutting timber then notch them in. obviously you can’t make the notch to a size that it takes the strength away from the joist, if this is the case then joist hangers will retain the full size of the joist so retaining the strength rating that it was designed for.

Have a look at Vastern timbers range of heat treated timbers. TBH who will know you used chestnut after a couple of years it will look like any other timber. chestnut is well known for splitting, it’s actually used for split railings.

Does that include the Jack stands and tie down brackets, what is it being anchored to, if it includes that lot then it doesn’t seem too bad.

Put stainless studding down the cavity between the two leaves of brickwork, let it poke up past the top course drill a hole in the wall plate and drop them over the studding. you could just drop the restraint strap down the cavity and build it in, but it would be hard to terminate it neat at the wall plate. you could use a twist strap and go onto the side of a rafter. it all depends what you want to see or what you don’t. if it’s fully open underneath you will want no straps on show.