Russell griffiths

Following this one.

Wrong blocks, you will not get a good bond onto celcon, you need to use a weak mix as the blocks are so weak the mortar ends up stronger than the blocks. a free standing wall will not have a lot of strength until the wall plate is on and it’s loaded with a roof structure.

@gavztheouch dont do it, you need a full length rack that extends out to the front bumper with vertical bars going down to the bumper. if you have 2m overhang out the front the wind will whip them up and snap them. I do this regularly, but my timber yard is an 8 minute drive away, so worth taking the punt around the back lanes. you would not believe the loads imposed on that timber if doing 50mph.

Both, why does it matter, unless you remove all the slabs on top then dig down the back and waterproof it correctly you are not going to fix it, the best you can do is tart it up and keep it looking fresh. having it re rendered won’t fix it.

When I did the costs on mine it was £3000 extra for pir over eps. that’s a good chunk more than a few hundred pounds.

You need to clad the walls with something that is not directly fixed to the blockwork like the render is. you will NEVER fix the problem without a complete redesign the trend of these white rendered walls in a garden situation was always going to fail, everyone is doing them and they will all fail. im afraid it’s just a poor design choice. some form of composite cladding then a larger overhang on the coping stone would have been more robust. sand it back and paint it, you will need to do this every year, tart it up in the spring, get a summer out of it and let it deteriorate in the winter, repeat next year.

We all know that, but do you need 200mm of pir in an nudura icf house, zero cold bridges, probably an air test of below 1 dpm sealed up against the walls, insulation fitted tightly. ufh will probably only flick on for an hour a day. I just don’t see the need for such a high level of insulation when the ufh pipes are in the 80mm screed sat on top of the insulation.

200mm eps then screed, save a fortune over pir.

Engineering for at least 150mm above ground level to allow for water splash. I like the look of 2-3 courses of a darker brick at ground level then the face brick. 450 is only 6 courses.

With a mist coat you need to work out your finished paint system and work backwards. it is a big problem in the painting industry at the moment of using 50 year old technology of a watered down contract emulsion then going over the top with one of the new technology scrubbable matts. the two types of paint don’t work and the hard wearing scrubbable version will pull the mist coat off the plaster. look at your top coat and follow the instructions on surface preparation.

600mm appliance normally only requires 615mm hole.

Mines all ducted.

I’ve never seen a raft foundation for a single dwelling with an expansion joint in the slab. what’s your engineers thoughts on this.

Run the duct for the fibre into the plot, run enough cable to reach the new house, but run it to the site hut or caravan, then just redirect it to the house when finished.

You need to buy the tap, then work out if your fitting flexible pipes or not, then mock it all up and do a drawing for the pipe penetration through the wall.

Not understanding the question block n beam floor has blocks between the beams, is that what you mean.

£600,000

If you have a non existent budget then why build the garden room like an extension, build it like a garden room and save the £5-6 grand to do the extension. if you have no prior building knowledge then your not going to build the extension yourself anyway, so pointless trying to learn something. you would be better off learning the methods of construction so you can employ trades as and when you need them. you will need a fair chunk of money for the extension, don’t for a minute think it will be cheap.

Starlink dish, your build will be 50% up before bt get to you.

That’s for an application, are the confident it will go through. I thought you wanted a pre application meeting, to find out if an application was worth a go. we went down the route of. pre talking to council under the radar site meeting £250 2-3 hours in their office doing a bit of research £300. full application all drawings checked, organise site surveys, prepare planning app, liaise with council man, site meetings with council man, everything needed in a 16 month planning battle. £4000 They told me we are not going in half cocked, either go in with the attitude it’s going to pass or why bother, they hit the council with every condition already covered, whatever the council came back with we had already covered it in a report somewhere, it cost a lot of money but was worth every penny.

I’m from Ruislip and worked around Pinner a lot. your extension will not be built on a trench 600mm deep, it will likely need a strip foundation at least 1.5m deep with mass fill concrete to within 450mm of ground level. I would bet you actually end up doing the extension on a percussion driven pile, this is very common around that area due to the soil and trees. the last extension I did in Ruislip we went down 2.3m with a strip foundation as piles were not common back then, and expensive. it’s far more common to use this method now. are you being misled when they say 600mm foundation, this normally means the amount of concrete, not the depth in the ground the concrete is placed at, so you actually have a 1m deep trench with 600mm of concrete in it. minimum dig depth for anything looking at needing building regs is a metre.

Stick a plastic builders sack over the top. will get a tad Smokey indoors.

Is it a flue or a chimney for a woodburner.

6 years, just me, have I gone over. 🤣🤣

Stop looking at it, and go to the pub.