Russell griffiths

I think you need to go back to the drawing board, It looks like you are trying to build a sauna, if you insulate it properly and air seal it you will not need heating in the loft, it will be unbearable up there and you will need the windows open. I have a mezzanine area with no heating apart from what rises naturally and we are wondering how to keep it cool.

Excellent, far too many boring houses being built in uk.

I think in this country we seem to think that a house has to be stuck to the ground, other countries like America and Australia build on far greater slopes than we have because they are not restricted by our boring house building.

We have cedar and the cost is extortionate, if you are painting it I would buy a standard builders merchants off the shelf product.

@pocster are you still here, I thought we had got rid of you.

That’s a standard shit job, you should be aiming for 100% better than that.

I would just use the correct size timber but bolt it to the wall fix the joist to the wall with 12mm studs, secured into the wall with epoxy resin drill the timber at 600 centres, mark the wall and remove the timber clean out holes and squirt in epoxy, fit studs and allow to go off fit timber and tighten nuts. I did one exactly like this years ago and the customer put it through his house insurance.

Are you serious ??‍♂️

I decided to go traditional 80mm thick, I have seen three liquid screeds in the last year and I wasn’t overly impressed with any of them, mine would have been £2000 dearer to use a flow screed. The price increase is because it saves you time. I wanted weight to pin the insulation down with no bounce. Very impressed with mine.

I’ve just finished mine, I laid pipes over entire floor area, then screened whole floor incorporating expansion joints to fall in doorways and under a long run of wall. All my stud walls are up without one single screw or bolt into the screed, all glued down with HB42 adhesive

Looking good. ??

I’m leaning towards getting a standard cheap flight of stairs and building the winders myself. Im just starting to read up on regs for stairs, I know the standard 100mm openings and straight forward stuff, has anybody got any knowledge any any regs that could catch me out. And any pointers for good design, these are stairs leading up to a mezzanine area that is my wife’s craft room so probably see only infrequent use. Cheers.

Everything is doable, just depends on what you want to spend, getting that building past building regs might be a job to far and it could be easier to knock it down. As has has been said planning is the big hurdle.

if you have zero knowledge then go and hire a powered tamping beam, or a beam screed, you can hire the bull float as well, you will also need two friends one on each end of the screed and one in the middle raking out the concrete. Do not underestimate the work in this. Make sure you can get the concrete truck truck right up to the pour area.

Soak it up in the cleaner, and then go poking with the screwdriver. He who dares rodney.

I cannot see your problem with block coursing, your blocks will run up level with the outside brickwork, it’s off no consequence how much insulation you have, it’s down to your beam depth, a standard 150 deep beam should course nicely with the outside brickwork. One row of coursing blocks on top of the beams and you will be back level with the brickwork. Hope thats what you meant.

As mark said, that’s a breaker for concrete paths and things, you can do a lot of damage to the underneath structure with a breaker, I would start with a hammer and bolster first. If it’s blown it should fall off.

Probably, it still looks fine, it’s very sheltered in that gap so gets very little sunlight, I would be happy if it needed changing every 5 years. How about a strip of fibreglass as in one of the edge trims cut down and slid up into the gap.

Are you sure it’s not uv resistant, it’s been there about 4 years and looks fine every time I clean the gutters out. Im talking about dpc not dpm. ??

I have a similar issue and cut a length of 100mm wide plastic damp proof course this is folded gently and pushed up from the gutter to under the flashing, works a treat.

Don’t worry problem solved, I’m know the owner of 12 sheets of 2400x600 celotex.

I thought I would stick this up just to amuse @ToughButterCup as I generally take great pleasure in reading about his mishaps during his build. So im in the builders merchants this morning moaning in general about the crap quality of their wood when I noticed a pallet of loft ladders all reduced because of overstock, not one to ever turn down a bargain I grabbed one and trotted off home to fit it as I had a bit of a free afternoon as I’m waiting for some more bent wood to turn up. 3 hours later I’ve cut the hole in the loft floor, fitted noggins between the ceiling joists, fitted the loft ladder and combined hatch,perfect. So I decide to give it a try and duly prance up and down the ladder a few times looking for squeaks or wobble bits. It was on my 4th trip up the ladder I poked my head right up into the loft space to discover to my absolute horror that sitting in the corner of the loft where 6 full sheets of 8x4 celotex insulation, anybody got any bright ideas how you get an 8x4 sheet through a 3 foot hole. ???

We have a fire escape window that is higher than 1100mm, I pointed it out to bc and said it’s a sticky thing that I need to discuss with you. He just told me to build a step up to it, but it must be a permanent feature, ie not a pair of steps that could be removed from the room. I will build it onto the floor all screwed down and chuck a bit a bit of carpet on it. Regarding habitable rooms, we have had to put fire escape window in our office as it would be very easy to just put a bed in there and it’s instantly another bedroom.

I’m still thinking about this and wonder if we are overly worried about how long it takes to get hot water to a tap. Things ive thought about. 90% of the time I need a wee I’m out around our land and wee in the bushes, so never wash my hands. I asked the wife wife if she waits for the hot to come through when she has been to the toilet, she said no she uses soap and cold water. If if I go to have a shower I turn on the mixer and then get undressed, so the hot is there by the time I step in. If if I want a bucket of hot to wash something in the garden I place a bucket in the sink and let it run, it takes a minute to fill a bucket and I don’t want it all hot so what’s the problem there. I think with building a new house we want everything perfect, instant hot water taps and stuff, what happened to just flicking the kettle on I think it’s all getting a bit carried away.

I hate them, another invention that just doesn’t do what was intended, I find the full flush is never enough and normally flush again after I’ve washed my hands, so using twice as much. ?‍♂️