Russell griffiths

thank me later.

You can get seconds of proctor membrane on e bay roll it out and secure with battens, then rip it off and throw it away. You will throw any tarpaulin away anyhow as it will be ripped to shreds, all the pointy tops on the trusses will punch through on the first night. The blocks will not care about being wet, you will see it all dry out in a couple of weeks after the roof is on, you will start to see a change in colour after a couple of days as the moisture pulls out of the blocks. Stop worrying and get the facia on.

It will last a week before being ripped to shreds.

@willbish did this.

Nope. ?? Its all in the plumbers head, I just do as he says, as he gets all grumpy when I ask too many questions.

I asked this question long ago as I was confused, mine are going in this week, 3 manifolds in total cold hot hot return. The hot return is for the hots that have a distance to travel the kitchen and one bathroom are right next to the plant room so just a normal hot feed to them.

DO NOT DEMOLISH IT BEFORE YOU HAVE YOUR NEW PLANNING IN PLACE. just because you have a piece of land does not guarantee you will get the new planning.

Found the answer to my question @dnb i personally do not need any fire proof measures as it a non habitable area above. If it was a bedroom it could be different so you may need to ask bc.

Can you not just set the TMV to 46 for sign off, then turn it up afterwards.

No rest for the wicked ?? good job bud.

I think @trialuser is talking about a press fit system that you need the clamping tool, best part of a grand.

They all require fancy tools, I may be about to buy a set that I would sell on afterwards, what makes have you looked at.

Old jcb type backhoe thing will spend more time making a mess and getting stuck buy a 3 tonne tracked machine for yourself, and hire in an 8 tonne machine for a week to do the big cleanup and stump pulling.

Simple don’t buy it in bulk bags, you don’t want a price per tonne, you want a price per truckload. Phone the quarry direct.

You can stick a truck load down if you want to avoid them dragging mud out onto the road, but it will be sacrificial and get messed up and will need another load on top for correct levelling.

I really try to support my local shops and merchants, but I’m afraid I have another store. To add to the list of places I just wont bother with. I went into the paint store, I have a trade account, was after a 2.5 litre tin of white primer, I can get said tin of paint for £15.99 in b+q with my trade point card, I can get it in Selco for £15.00. So why the bloody hell hell did I just pay £24 for it in the paint store. Sod em, I shall just sit here every night and order everything on line.

£240 for 10 tonne loads delivered, that’s in an eye watering expensive part of the country, even though it comes out of a hole 10 minutes from my site. 12mm 20mm 40mm clean stone.

You can buy air sealing liquid in a 5kg bucket, it is like a thick paint with fibres, 2 inch paintbrush and off you go slap it on everywhere. Easy peasy.

I would say no, is there any chance of water sitting on top of the steel or is it completely covered.

It is a nhbc requirement as peter said, I suppose for £20 of tape it’s worth doing.

Evening all. If installing plastic pipes in a wall is it a requirement to fit a metal trace wire or foil tape, so you can detect their location with a stud detector.

Yes. What are you thinking.

Horizontal Cladding vertical batten treated cedar air gap top and bottom. Stainless fixings.

@Nick1c what did you use as mesh, I have rolls of 100mm wide stainless mesh and it feels too flimsy. I would like a mesh I can fold and it holds its shape.

Anybody got any recommendations for priming mdf , particularly edges that have been machined. Got lots of fitted furniture and doors so looking for something available in big tins not little 500ml for small projects. Price not important, I like good not cheap. Ta very much.