Russell griffiths

Then there’s a few fools about, read some of the previous posts, it is always pulled out as an argument for cost saving with woodcrete. Whatever they tell you to brace you need to add more, every 1200-1500 along a main run, window reveals, door reveals. Have seen first hand what a bad pour can do to the finished product you need to be belt and braces. I have a couple of walls walls that are certainly not as plumb as I would have liked, and I braced it to death and levelled it a dozen times, and still it’s not as good as I thought it would be. But its its a million times better than the others I have seen this year.

It seams to be the general argument on here, it’s reeled out every time someone does a cost comparison. They add up all the little things and say that woodcrete requires less bracing or even none at all, then they think that £800 for bracing is taking the Micky and think the company should supply it for free. Do a search it comes up every time there is an icf versus discussion.

I haven’t used any, but I’ve worked on 3 different ones this year nudura isotex velox. All products have there problems, as long as you know what they are you can address it, and work out what it will cost to put it right. Airproofing woodcrete for arguments sake, what will it cost to parge coat the inside walls and add in an air tight layer at floor junctions. It could be a couple of grand you hadnt planned on spending. But don’t worry you would save that in not needing to brace it. ?????. “

Airtightness. Cold-bridging water penetration. Uneven walls, due to lack of bracing. ??‍♂️

I thought you only want it for the length of your build ?? pack it up on a few bits of timber then chuck a stiff concrete mix under the panels to fill the gap.

Then chuck it up on that paving, c’mon stop dawdling. Picture tomorrow night of it finished. ??

Have you been to collect this garage .? do you have the ability to move it ? there is a reason that they are free. ,!!

This year I’ve worked on 3 icf houses, two woodcrete and one eps based, the only upside to the woodcrete is that you can screw a screw into it, if you think that is relevant then put a tick in that box. As for the downside to them, not sure I even want to go there, I paid £22,000 for my icf system and I think the woodcrete would need to be half price to even get me to think about them.

It always baffles me as to why anybody thinks that needing less bracing on your icf system is a good thing. You are going to spend £250-300-350-450,000 on building this house, why do people think that saving £500 on bracing is a thing to even consider.

Is there such a thing as sound reduction glass, my father in law is getting new windand the salesman said they would use a film on the outer pane to cut down the noise. I scream bullshit, and think he’s a snake oil salesmen. I have been ordered by the wife to keep my nose out, so I have to keep it shut.

Draw rope and a chamber every 100m for an easier pull.

Easy don’t buy the upvc. If your filling the cavity with eps beads you must be trying to build a quality house, I don’t see how 65mm upvc frames even come into the equation. Put them out of your mind buy the better windows and solve all the problems like you had before.

If you have the height use 200mm eps and save 40-50%.

Concrete on site 8 am sharp, pumped in by 10, levelled by 12. Powerfloat 4 pm.

Just hirer one you will only need it for one day. get the edges shuttered up to the correct height then hire a spin screed. You will need a concrete pump and four guys. How wide is your place.

I don’t see this as much of a problem, not sure why you need to insure the site hut, add in tool insurance if you want and plant insurance, but I have generally found that in 35 years of building related work I have only ever made one claim for a trailer I had stolen. Minor thefts from site you normally take it on the chin as after you pay the excess it’s hardly worth the bother. If its worth more than £500 it doesn’t get left on site.

Do not buy the 150 it’s horrible to cut.

Need to find a good decoupling membrane, floor is traditional sand and cement screed tiles will be 1200x600 porcelain. Any recommendations for a good one, would rather spend a couple of hundred more to have no problems with it. Any thoughts @nod cheers all.

Do you not need a structural topping to go over your insulation? i thought you did, or have you changed the floor build up. As nod said you can pump the traditional screed, my lads where fantastic and would cover your area. I would allow £22 a m to supply and lay yours, maybe a bit more if area is small, as they need to allow for travel and setting up the pump. The lads I used came from Swansea and will travel to you.

Should have a folded trim behind the timber to prevent water tracking backwards.

I used the knauf omni fit, you could make a coat out of it, not scratchy at all. I have a load of rockwool acoustic here and fitting it today I’m seriously considering throwing it all in the skip. Roofwise i did 200mm omnifit then 70mm pir under the rafters.

Anybody that uses rockwool needs the head looking at, it is the most hideous product known to man and needs banning. Knauf on the other hand is a pleasure to use.

If laid in bays you need to mesh between the bays, or you can get a lip if one moves.

It will crack, end of. Plastic sheet underneath will not stop it cracking, what it will do is stop the concrete drying too quick especially in this weather. You will need saw cuts every 5-6m so you can make it crack where you want it to crack, you need to provide a weak spot or it will just crack where it wants. Blinding not needed, very heavily consolidated base, then plastic, then mesh as designed then concrete.

I thought that, but wondered if @pocster would understand, so decided to keep my mouth shut.