Russell griffiths

I was going to say that you can argue the fact that it is a single dwelling with low vehicle movement and state a smaller fence will do. However I thought the cost of buying posts and wire would outweigh the cost of buying and then reselling the heras panels.

Facebook for the panels. Just last year I had a new main moled in, 75m two lads did it in a day, no mess , digging the trench wouldn’t have been any quicker.

second hand heras fence at £10 per panel £700 sell at the end for £600 to allow for a couple of scrap ones. Mole the water pipe it’s hardly any difference in cost to digging a trench.

What is the hole for? can you turn the whole thing into an inspection chamber ? is it no two’s or rainwater ?

In that case I cannot see what the water bar is for.

So where is the damp proof membrane in that picture. There are a lot of details missing from that drawing, can you pan out on it, I take it that is a screed with ufh installed.

Is this finished yet ??? asking for a friend.

I think your only option is either floor up or ceiling down. Then look at your options, before you stiffen it up I would get a fat mate to stamp around upstairs and look at the deflection. I would also try jacking the timbers up in the centre before you brace them, so sort of pre loading but in the opposite direction. A lot of joist movement occurs because the joists move at the point they are fixed to the wall, they flex down as they move away from their fixed ends, you might need to block between the joists at the wall fixing points. Will be a big dirty job, probably only worth doing if you intend staying for a few years.

Shows I know nothing ??‍♂️

Loadbearing?? non loadbearing ?? what do you want to know, build wall screw it down to floor sheets, that’s about it isn’t it. Ps. don’t screw through any pipes. Job done.

Cheers bigears @ToughButterCup, I think those cills will be pukka. Just what I expected from our Norwegian friends.

G,day. Im just looking at front and back doors, can anybody point me in the direction of what height difference we need to comply with for disabled access. I had in my mind that it was 15mm high, i have a drawing of the door threshold I would like to use, do you think it is cool bananas or no good, it’s from norrsken who supplied our windows which I am very happy with so I’m hoping they are correct.

I think they are lead by videos, mostly foreign, and the reps making the product seem easier to use than it actually is. Seeing half a dozen women putting a dozen blocks together at a build show gives people a false sense of the depth of work and knowledge required to get a good result.

Then there’s a few fools about, read some of the previous posts, it is always pulled out as an argument for cost saving with woodcrete. Whatever they tell you to brace you need to add more, every 1200-1500 along a main run, window reveals, door reveals. Have seen first hand what a bad pour can do to the finished product you need to be belt and braces. I have a couple of walls walls that are certainly not as plumb as I would have liked, and I braced it to death and levelled it a dozen times, and still it’s not as good as I thought it would be. But its its a million times better than the others I have seen this year.

It seams to be the general argument on here, it’s reeled out every time someone does a cost comparison. They add up all the little things and say that woodcrete requires less bracing or even none at all, then they think that £800 for bracing is taking the Micky and think the company should supply it for free. Do a search it comes up every time there is an icf versus discussion.

I haven’t used any, but I’ve worked on 3 different ones this year nudura isotex velox. All products have there problems, as long as you know what they are you can address it, and work out what it will cost to put it right. Airproofing woodcrete for arguments sake, what will it cost to parge coat the inside walls and add in an air tight layer at floor junctions. It could be a couple of grand you hadnt planned on spending. But don’t worry you would save that in not needing to brace it. ?????. “

Airtightness. Cold-bridging water penetration. Uneven walls, due to lack of bracing. ??‍♂️

I thought you only want it for the length of your build ?? pack it up on a few bits of timber then chuck a stiff concrete mix under the panels to fill the gap.

Then chuck it up on that paving, c’mon stop dawdling. Picture tomorrow night of it finished. ??

Have you been to collect this garage .? do you have the ability to move it ? there is a reason that they are free. ,!!

This year I’ve worked on 3 icf houses, two woodcrete and one eps based, the only upside to the woodcrete is that you can screw a screw into it, if you think that is relevant then put a tick in that box. As for the downside to them, not sure I even want to go there, I paid £22,000 for my icf system and I think the woodcrete would need to be half price to even get me to think about them.

It always baffles me as to why anybody thinks that needing less bracing on your icf system is a good thing. You are going to spend £250-300-350-450,000 on building this house, why do people think that saving £500 on bracing is a thing to even consider.

Is there such a thing as sound reduction glass, my father in law is getting new windand the salesman said they would use a film on the outer pane to cut down the noise. I scream bullshit, and think he’s a snake oil salesmen. I have been ordered by the wife to keep my nose out, so I have to keep it shut.

Draw rope and a chamber every 100m for an easier pull.

Easy don’t buy the upvc. If your filling the cavity with eps beads you must be trying to build a quality house, I don’t see how 65mm upvc frames even come into the equation. Put them out of your mind buy the better windows and solve all the problems like you had before.